Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community
Sign in to follow this  
absolve2525

Reducing KLF 30 Midrange Level

Recommended Posts

I finally got around to recapping with Dayton poly caps for mids and highs, Parts Express house brand electrolytics for the woofers, installing Crites Ti diaphragms, and replacing ferrofluid in the tweeters. I've been letting them crank when I can, to break everything in. The Crites do seem to improve and smooth out after playing a while, in my opinion. Anyways, the mids still seem a little hot for my ears. I'm used to the Tangent T5000 / Heresy 2 sound, which I believe has more midrange attenuation compared to the KLF 30s. They sound very great, don't get me wrong, but I'm in a smaller room and the mids are a little overwhelming with my current gear. What's the best way to reduce midrange level? Do I need the Crites autoformers and new midrange caps? Should I install 16 ohm l-pads from Parts Express? Detailed instructions would be helpful. Thanks! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While I'm new here, my standard, possibly unhelpful help for speakers, especially those with horns, is to get a nice little tube amp.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, I do have a tube amp I can try with them. I may try biamping also, with a higher powered solid state amp on the woofers and the tube amp on the mids/highs. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, absolve2525 said:

I finally got . I'm used to the Tangent T5000 / Heresy 2 sound (they use the same crossovers)

the crossovers are similar , but they are not the same

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I meant that the Heresy 2 and Tangent T5000 use the same crossover, to the best of my knowledge. My Tangent T5000 crossover boards are labeled Heresy 2 on the boards themselves. Thanks 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd replace the 22ohm resistor in the midrange circuit with a Mills MRA-12 or Mundorf MR-10 33-35 ohm resistor.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, MechEngVic said:

I'd replace the 22ohm resistor in the midrange circuit with a Mills MRA-12 or Mundorf MR-10 33-35 ohm resistor.

Thanks for the suggestion. Sounds easy enough! Where do you order those from? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did Klipsch use fluid in tweeters ever??? Never seen one. I think you need rebuild kit for crossovers from Crites. Then put dyna mat on the mid horn. Make sure all screws on horn are tight. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, K-79-K tweeters used ferrofluid. K-75-K is the same tweeter found in Tangent T5000, but with no ferrofluid. I debated whether or not to replace or just remove and leave it out, but I had extra on hand from Parts Express and figured I would replace it so it's the same as before. Perhaps some K-79-K don't have it, can't tell ya there. It was in both pairs from my Chorus 2s and the KLF30s also. In my KG4s, which don't have K-79-Ks, one pair had ferrofluid while one did not. Weird! 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just swapped in my rebuilt Marantz 2275 vintage receiver, and I'm getting less bright midrange and smoother sound. Apparently its a better synergy for my tastes. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stick an L-pad on the mids and call it a day.  Set it where you like it and you won't have to keep buying parts if you guess how much attenuation you want and are wrong.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

Stick an L-pad on the mids and call it a day.  Set it where you like it and you won't have to keep buying parts if you guess how much attenuation you want and are wrong.

Thanks, I'll probably do that next. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/5/2020 at 8:47 PM, absolve2525 said:

Should I install 16 ohm l-pads from Parts Express? Detailed instructions would be helpful.

Are the drivers 16 ohm?  If so, yes.  If not, no.

 

Directions are supplied.  Wiring is simple.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, absolve2525 said:

Thanks for the suggestion. Sounds easy enough! Where do you order those from? 

It´s better to purchase the MResit Supreme Versions from Mundorf. They got a copper / Nickel Alloy . I don´t know where you can get Mundorf Products in the USA . The one that @MechEngVicproposed are regular MOX

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, absolve2525 said:

Yes, K-79-K tweeters used ferrofluid. K-75-K is the same tweeter found in Tangent T5000, but with no ferrofluid. I debated whether or not to replace or just remove and leave it out, but I had extra on hand from Parts Express and figured I would replace it so it's the same as before. Perhaps some K-79-K don't have it, can't tell ya there. It was in both pairs from my Chorus 2s and the KLF30s also. In my KG4s, which don't have K-79-Ks, one pair had ferrofluid while one did not. Weird! 

the k79  depending on the year of manufacturing , would have ferrofluid  , some did not   , the ones who  are  shown with a green  color  have ferrofluid -------but sometimes , people who replace a defective tweeter , also  remove the ferrofluid

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, absolve2525 said:

Thanks for the suggestion. Sounds easy enough! Where do you order those from? 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333283622325

 

https://www.partsconnexion.com/cgi-bin/sc/productsearch.cgi?storeid=*20b7b4534d0a875b77f1157d6bb78322a865&search_field=mills

 

https://www.percyaudio.com/

 

The reason I suggest the use of resistor changes instead of changes to inductor or capacitor values is because you're not changing the Klipsch architecture (the shape of the frequency response curve), just turning down the volume a bit. And a resistor change will have less of an effect on the driver's impedance curve than even small inductor and capacitor changes can have. Trust me, you don't want to mess with that sweet signature Klipsch midrange sound. About the most I would try is doubling the resistance value, but no less than about 10 ohm increase. The Mundorfs on eBay are cheap enough to buy several values and a good quality resistor. You can cut the old resistor out but leave the leads sticking up out of the board and alligator clip different values in until you find what you like. Then if you want the best quality, buy a Mills of your favorite value to put in (within a few ohms is ok). For fun, check Parts Connexion for the crazy boutique resistors.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With the MResist SUPREME you can enjoy even the finest details and spatial information that are lost with conventional resistors. Thanks to the elaborate bifilar construction from 1Ω, in which two wires are wound simultaneously onto the high-temperature-resistant cement body, the inductance also always remains below 0.075μH. The MResist SUPREME series is also distinguished by tonal neutrality and realistic music reproduction - thanks to a special, fireproof, hand-applied casting compound that optimally fixes and stabilizes the resistor winding and thus protects it from microphonic effects.To ensure that the sound experience is not impaired even under high load, a special copper-nickel alloy is used as conductor material, which is characterised by a positive and extremely low temperature coefficient of only 50ppm/°C.The use of exclusively non-magnetic materials and the welding of all contacts are further details that ensure that MResist SUPREME resistors are barely perceptible acoustically.


 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I finally got around to recapping with Dayton poly caps for mids and highs, Parts Express house brand electrolytics for the woofers, installing Crites Ti diaphragms, and replacing ferrofluid in the tweeters. I've been letting them crank when I can, to break everything in. The Crites do seem to improve and smooth out after playing a while, in my opinion. Anyways, the mids still seem a little hot for my ears. I'm used to the Tangent T5000 / Heresy 2 sound, which I believe has more midrange attenuation compared to the KLF 30s. They sound very great, don't get me wrong, but I'm in a smaller room and the mids are a little overwhelming with my current gear. What's the best way to reduce midrange level? Do I need the Crites autoformers and new midrange caps? Should I install 16 ohm l-pads from Parts Express? Detailed instructions would be helpful. Thanks! 

That's cool absolve. I think that after you've dealt with all of the issues with these speakers they are hard to beat. 

Are your cabs solid (not leaking away bass)? That will really help with the mids/highs and make the speaker sound more balanced. AG55 mid drivers help, too....and are a big step up from the originals.

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, MicroMara said:

With the MResist SUPREME you can enjoy even the finest details and spatial information that are lost with conventional resistors. Thanks to the elaborate bifilar construction from 1Ω, in which two wires are wound simultaneously onto the high-temperature-resistant cement body, the inductance also always remains below 0.075μH. The MResist SUPREME series is also distinguished by tonal neutrality and realistic music reproduction - thanks to a special, fireproof, hand-applied casting compound that optimally fixes and stabilizes the resistor winding and thus protects it from microphonic effects.To ensure that the sound experience is not impaired even under high load, a special copper-nickel alloy is used as conductor material, which is characterised by a positive and extremely low temperature coefficient of only 50ppm/°C.The use of exclusively non-magnetic materials and the welding of all contacts are further details that ensure that MResist SUPREME resistors are barely perceptible acoustically.


 

Lol.  Reads like an infomercial.

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, SWL said:

That's cool absolve. I think that after you've dealt with all of the issues with these speakers they are hard to beat. 

Are your cabs solid (not leaking away bass)? That will really help with the mids/highs and make the speaker sound more balanced. AG55 mid drivers help, too....and are a big step up from the originals.

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

Yup, cabinets are solid and this version has bracing inside. I have a pair of K55v with solder lugs I could try, but not sure how well they fit the stock midrange horn. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...