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Problem with Dayton caps?


CECAA850

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I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this.

 

I recently acquired a set of 2 way EV speakers.  Thinking that they were 20 or 30 years old I'd recap them.  I've seen where a lot of people have used and recommended Dayton caps so I ordered enough caps to rebuild them both.  If it matters, the HF circuit had a 3.5uf and 25uf cap. I capped only one board as I wanted to AB the speakers with my balance control on my pre to see if I could hear a difference.  The newly recapped speaker lost a little bit of volume and definitely some high end sparkle.  For confirmation I got my daughter to listen to them, not telling her which was which.  She immediately heard the same thing that I did.  OK, I next pulled the Daytons out and put the stock ones back.  Sounded perfect.  Now I'm starting to doubt myself.  Did I maybe wire the HF out of polarity?  I've got to know.  I pulled the crossover.....again..... and soldered the Daytons back and paid close attention to the wiring.  All was good.  Same thing, less highs and slightly less volume.  Put the stock ones back in and all was good.  Now I'm pissed.  I pulled all the caps and measured them thinking I had a bad cap.  The stock 25 read 24.8, Dayton 25.  Stock 3.5 read 3.58 and Dayton was 3.54.  Are the Daytons that laid back????  If not, what am I missing?

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The 25uF is probably the shunt cap for the low pass.

 

Since you notice it mostly in the highs, you might have a bad 3.5uF. You would need an ESR meter to know for sure -- or ... pull them again and solder your other 3.5 in there.

 

The other possibility is your shitty soldering. 🙂

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10 minutes ago, Deang said:

The 25uF is probably the shunt cap for the low pass.

 

Since you notice it mostly in the highs, you might have a bad 3.5uF. You would need an ESR meter to know for sure -- or ... pull them again and solder your other 3.5 in there.

 

The other possibility is your shitty soldering. 🙂

The low pass has a 50 and a 75.

 

I measured them with an ESR meter, actually a Fluke that can measure capacitance  see the readings above.  Did you read the whole post?????  LOL

 

I guess I only shitty solder Daytons and good solder the stock ones.

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"ESR is the sum of in-phase AC resistance. It includes resistance of the dielectric, plate material, electrolytic solution, and terminal leads at a particular frequency. ESR acts like a resistor in series with a capacitor (thus the name Equivalent Series Resistance)."

 

In a new capacitor, it is usually related to poor lead terminations.

 

To measure ESR, you need an ESR meter.

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https://www.illinoiscapacitor.com/pdf/Papers/impendance_dissipation_factor_ESR.pdf

Math....Ay Carumba!

Would be interesting to measure ESR at say 1 or 2 kHz. Cheapo meters are going to measure at 120 Hz (full wave rectified line freq) for P.S. caps. as per our conversation.

Your idea of just trying Audyns? (spelling) and see what changes is probably the way to go. What does Dean think?

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I used Dayton’s in my Klipsch H1’s and have the very same problem, and yes I did Measure the ESR as I have a ESR meter. and I tested to make sure they were within specs. They are the +/ -10% and they were within 2%
And I’ve lost a lot of my highs and some of the mids as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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17 minutes ago, carlthess40 said:

I used Dayton’s in my Klipsch H1’s and have the very same problem, and yes I did Measure the ESR as I have a ESR meter. and I tested to make sure they were within specs. They are the +/ -10% and they were within 2%
And I’ve lost a lot of my highs and some of the mids as well
 

Interesting.  I wonder why no one has commented on it previously.   It wasn't a subtle difference.

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