Lbk Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 I was doing some xover work on my chorus II and noticed a half inch tear in radiator. It's not too bad if pushed out from rear you can't even see it. I would like to patch/fix from rear only if possible. I have some ideas but would like to get other thoughts, thanks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 Black speaker cement will work just fine. Do the inside and outside and let it set up. Stick that back in there and enjoy for the next 30 years. From the back side only would probably work just fine if cosmetics worry you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artto Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 I love GOO. It's a semi-flexible adhesive. I'm familiar with from model railroading. Walthers (Milwaukee) is the main purveyor. Should be available at any hobby shop. I've fixed everything from speaker cone tears to a large outdoor plexiglass store sign (4'x20') that cracked in half. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 as long as you are it , check both speakers , for any light tears , it's always best to catch any defect ontime ----- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbk Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 Dave I'am guessing you have use it? Do you know if it is similar/same as contact rubber cement. Looks like a great product but only online and takes 4 to 7 shipping days, would like to get fixed sooner while speaker is apart. I have seen goo at home depot, semi-flexible which I think would be good. Artto do you know about it's longative?Maybe I could do goo on inside buy black rubber cement for outside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbk Posted August 25, 2020 Author Share Posted August 25, 2020 Went to home depot looking for goo and did find any, I think I was thinking of goop anyway. I did find shoe glue from loctite, states uv and water resistant, vibration and Impact resistant, flexible, durable and dries clear. Sounded good so I bought it. I would rather have tried Dave's suggestion but this is readily available, I think it will work fine. It dries clear but does turn speaker darker where applied. Thanks for the suggestions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 Use the glue made for this purpose. Simply Speakers will sell you some. I think you are making a mistake to go and get something else. Yes I have used it and keep a 2oz bottle on hand as you can use it for things like loose dust caps too. That passive has 8 screws so it is not like you have much work to take it back off when the right glue gets there and do it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 A very very long time ago I used tissue paper and Duco cement. Dupont Corporation's glue was advanced stuff back then. Now I'd use contact cement aka rubber cement from HD, or bathtub caulk aka RTV, or the glues for speakers as sold by Parts Express. But let me suggest that a cloth patch to reinforce would be good. I'm thinking a small piece from a retired necktie or a lady's slip. Incidentally. I bought a small bottle of rubber cement at Walgreens. It is a bit gelatinous and can be thinned in the bottle with naptha. HD will only sell a pint of naptha. So I went to the local headshop and bought a little can of Zippo lighter fluid. I still felt like a criminal and/or someone from a Cheech and Chong movie. Smile. WMcD 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbk Posted August 25, 2020 Author Share Posted August 25, 2020 9 hours ago, Dave A said: Use the glue made for this purpose. Simply Speakers will sell you some. I think you are making a mistake to go and get something else. Yes I have used it and keep a 2oz bottle on hand as you can use it for things like loose dust caps too. That passive has 8 screws so it is not like you have much work to take it back off when the right glue gets there and do it right. You may be right (Hope not) but I've been without music for almost a week and wanted to get it fixed. Amazon and others sell it and price ranges from around 8 bucks to 25. (Pro vs Regular, snake oil ?) I plan on ordering some to have around, amazon is like 8 bucks with free shipping. The support is good advice but the tear was not to bad and I didn't think it was needed. Curious, has anyone tried Elmer's glue and paper towel method? I didn't like the idea of using Elmer's glue, longative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 7 minutes ago, Lbk said: You may be right (Hope not) but I've been without music for almost a week and wanted to get it fixed. Amazon and others sell it and price ranges from around 8 bucks to 25. (Pro vs Regular, snake oil ?) I plan on ordering some to have around, amazon is like 8 bucks with free shipping. The support is good advice but the tear was not to bad and I didn't think it was needed. Curious, has anyone tried Elmer's glue and paper towel method? I didn't like the idea of using Elmer's glue, longative. Looking for the heck of it today and typing in black speaker repair glue and a lot of what comes up does say black rubber cement. Based on that I would at least go with black rubber cement. Don't have time to dig in to see if there are better grades for audio or if they are all the same. It might be snake oil labels to get you to pay more for "speaker cement" or it might be there is a reason. I can get three grades of Titebond wood glue for instance and they do different things even though they are meant for the same purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 Started using this when I learned about it from DJK: You can use a variety of glues, applied on the back of the passive, with a layer or two of strong tissue similar to cigarette paper. I have used Weldbond adhesive. It dries clear and remains flexible. You can apply thin coats, thinned with a bit of water...using a small artists paintbrush. Works great! I have also used this on some splitting rubber surrounds on some JBL woofers. With the cigarette paper on the back, you couldn't see the repair at all, and they've been going for a number of years now. You can get this about anywhere, and it is inexpensive: https://www.amazon.com/Weldbond-8-50160-Multi-Purpose-Adhesive-1-Pack/dp/B00P94NRDE/ref=asc_df_B00P94NRDE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194874485682&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11004158007071488058&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013292&hvtargid=pla-313899920129&psc=1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbk Posted August 26, 2020 Author Share Posted August 26, 2020 Dave just thought you might have some experience with - different grades- since you do speaker work. Thanks Read about that method but was worried about flexible and longative. Should done more research but this was an unexpected repair and I'd been without music for almost a week. I have a couple old speakers think I'll experiment just out of curious. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjptkd Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 Had to do a couple small repairs on my passives 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechEngVic Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 Thin layer of titebond on inside only, thin strip of paper towel on top of glue, thin layer of glue on top of paper towel. Press with finger so glue enters void of tear but not so it overflows to outside. Nothing bonds paper (shredded wood) better than wood glue. Thin strip the length of the tear and just a fraction wider. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 7 hours ago, Lbk said: Dave just thought you might have some experience with - different grades- since you do speaker work. Thanks Read about that method but was worried about flexible and longative. Should done more research but this was an unexpected repair and I'd been without music for almost a week. I have a couple old speakers think I'll experiment just out of curious. Thanks! Well all I have ever done is use that black speaker cement and never fooled around with all the paper + other glues. First used it as part of a kit to recone a Forte passive and it is what is supplied with recone kits and what the manufacturers of speakers use so I never looked further. There is a reason they use it so I do too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbk Posted August 26, 2020 Author Share Posted August 26, 2020 Quick research Titrbound, Elmer's, Etc. are a PVA glue and the most common wood glue. (usually yellow in color) Water and mildew resistant, stays flexible, does not affect paper but does soak into it. I think my repair will work but now have that stupid small black stop on radiator. For professional's like dave I think his suggestion would work well and be quick and easy. The PVA method for diyers seems to be a good alternative. Cheap, easy and not too time consuming. Hopefully this post will help someone else down the road, Do your research and don't be in a hurry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 13 minutes ago, Lbk said: Quick research Titrbound, Elmer's, Etc. are a PVA glue and the most common wood glue. (usually yellow in color) Water and mildew resistant, stays flexible, does not affect paper but does soak into it. @Dave A recommended the right product as it's 1) black -meaning it wont show that much ---2) it's made for speakers and cones so it bonds perfectly for this tear 3) it's used for reconing , meaning it lasts a long time - 4) any glue that is not black will look terrible - a patch up job - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjptkd Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 23 hours ago, Lbk said: The PVA method for diyers seems to be a good alternative. Cheap, easy and not too time consuming. Hopefully this post will help someone else down the road, Do your research and don't be in a hurry. I used a clear PVA glue came in a small tube at Home Depot and a small piece of a dollar bill all applied on the backside of the cone only this method was recommended to me by my old speaker repair guy at "Around the Sound" in Seattle which sadly is no longer in business. He said the dollar bill is light weight, flexible and nearly indestructible making it the perfect material for small cone repairs. I've done this a few times and have never had a problem repairs have held up for years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 Since a passive radiator moves as a piston, flexibility is not very important. I have used Elmers paper glue, successfully. Use barely enough. Adding reinforcement with a barely big enough piece of cigarette paper or paper towel cannot hurt. Be sure to extend the reinforcement past the end of the year (about 1/4 of the tear length should be enough). Since you say the hole can be closed from the back side and is almost invisible, it is most probable is was penetrated from the outside, not torn from playing loud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbk Posted August 28, 2020 Author Share Posted August 28, 2020 All good ideas, common bond seems to be PVA glue. Choose of material seems to vary, dollar bill looks interesting just wondering if it will absorb glue. (Is that even necessary) In my haste (did't plan it that way) I did a repair with stuff mentioned above but no actual patch just glue. So I think I will put a small patch on rear once I decide which material to use. Flexible, piston didn't look at that way but I think your right. I was thinking vibration so flexible glue would have been important. Dave appreciate your response had I not got impatien definitely would have try it. I have to order some stuff from PE so think I will get bottle to have and experiment with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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