JohnW Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 (edited) Just did it. Tighter, clearer, more defined soundstage. Now I have to spend all night re-tweaking everything. Gosh darn it. Edited August 30, 2020 by JohnW 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnW Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 Sitting here listening, this soundstage is CRAZY. Hey he improvement is quite noticeable. Maybe a 15-20% increase in clarity in all three drivers, deeper, wider soundstage...not fatiguing or distorted... Now here’s the thing: I actually ordered a uF meter to see if I NEEDED to replace the original caps, but it hadn’t arrived on time, so I just went ahead and replaced them, thinking I could re-install if necessary. Well the meter arrived today and I tested them, none of them were more tha 1uF out of spec. So HOW IS IT that they sound SO MUCH better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boom3 Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 The Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR) and Dissipation Factor (DF) varies between caps, so the capacitance value per se is usually not the significant factor . I recapped my B3s with WIMA caps and noticed no audible diff. I recapped really for long-term stability. Most electrolytic caps start out about 10-20% above their labeled value and then drift downwards, with ESR and DF increasing over time. Film caps of any type usually keep their values for life, although if exposed to heat from vacuum tubes or in a car, they can be damaged. I tested some 40+ year old caps recently, they were right on their 2% tolerance. I don't have an ESR or DF meter but I doubt these particular caps (CRC metallized polypropylene hermetically sealed) are much different from the day they left the factory. Mylar caps have higher DF & ESR than their poly brethren and therefore I avoid them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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