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Chorus II - factory foam situation - how far down? Updated pics


iaRIVR

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Restoring a pair of Chorus IIs and have a couple questions before I get too far. The first one I really don't know, the rest are subjective.

 

1) Where did the foam go when it left the factory? I thought the consensus for the Forte II was above the woofer (top 2/3 or so). There's foam in there now but a mix of two types, one goes about to the midway point on the woofers, on the other one side goes all the way down on one side and stops above the woofer on the other.  Where should the foam go? or does it matter that much?

 

 

Picture1.thumb.jpg.2628d38404485cf694618818393ef6aa.jpgPicture2.jpg

 

And... subjective ones. These have all been covered before so not expecting answers but if you have thoughts either way please share.Trying to balance doing as much now while I have them apart without going crazy, they sound pretty great as is and no reason to mess with a good thing.

 

2) Bracing. Considering one between the woofer and the mid, and maybe two up the sides. Straight across, baltic birch ply or solid maple. Seems most say not necessary.

3) Damping. I have a bunch of Kilmat 80 mil. Could line cabinet sides under the foam, or horns and woofer/passive. Also seems not necessary. But I have it already.

4) LMAHL tweeter - very on the fence about doing this now while it will be easy to install, or spending some time with the stock tweeter (w/ crites ti) first.

 

Leaning towards less, but again don't really want to feel the need to take these apart again.

 

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Foam looks like stock placement I've never felt the need to do any bracing and I've driven them to insane levels for extended periods the de-120 tweeter is very nice upgrade either DaveA's MAHL or if you're handy with a dremel and want to save a few bucks the DPHL works great too.

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9 hours ago, iaRIVR said:

Leaning towards less, but again don't really want to feel the need to take these apart again!

 

Make sure to fill in the wood particles    that come off  from the MDF around the screw holes  for the woofer , I see T-Nuts in the holes for the passive woofer , great idea all around -

 

 

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9 hours ago, RandyH000 said:

Make sure to fill in the wood particles    that come off  from the MDF around the screw holes  for the woofer , I see T-Nuts in the holes for the passive woofer , great idea all around -

 

I agree with reinforcing the attachment holes.  The H2s shown below do not have passive radiators, so no T-nuts needed there.  Given the low ply count motorboards, I used toothpicks and Titebond to give all of the mounting screws something to bite into.   

 

One of the benefits of DIY is the opportunity to make changes that would be prohibitively expensive during mass production.  One example is the 13 ply Baltic birch used to fabricate a pair of “Super Heresy” cabinets compared to the plywood used in these H2s.  Another example is four machine screws into T-nuts used to mount La Scala woofers.  If I’ve taken the trouble to open the dog house,  I’ll use all eight mounting holes to secure the woofers before closing the doghouse.  Again, an extra step  that is costly at the production stage, but relatively easy to do as DIY.  When I refurbished a pair of beater La Scalas, I found loose screws regarding each woofer.

 

OBTW, the plywood in the Chorus II shown above appears to be superior to the plywood in the H2s I repaired.  And yes, the grey foam is in there loose, as shown in the photos.

 

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40 minutes ago, RandyH000 said:

so , the motorboard is not MDF , but the sides  panels , tops and bottoms are MDF

Yes, 3/4 MDF veneered on both sides for the sides back top and bottom with a full 1 inch plywood front probably because of the heavy k-48 woofer. What I find interesting is on the new pro models they use 3/4 plywood everywhere but the front which is 1 inch MDF.

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2 hours ago, jjptkd said:

Yes, 3/4 MDF veneered on both sides for the sides back top and bottom with a full 1 inch plywood front probably because of the heavy k-48 woofer. What I find interesting is on the new pro models they use 3/4 plywood everywhere but the front which is 1 inch MDF.

 

Maybe they just got the piles mixed up. 😏

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3 hours ago, jjptkd said:

Yes, 3/4 MDF veneered on both sides for the sides back top and bottom with a full 1 inch plywood front probably because of the heavy k-48 woofer. What I find interesting is on the new pro models they use 3/4 plywood everywhere but the front which is 1 inch MDF.

There is no reason I can see for that except it saves a few dollars per speaker. You just can't substitute MDF for plywood all the way around without having cabinets that may end up failing when suspended or moved around often. Pros have different expectations regarding durability.

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Interesting question, I would assume labor is by far the highest component in the cost of the speaker. Did a quick home depot check:

 

Particle board - 20

MDF 26

Plywood 40


Does make me curious how much they pinched pennies on materials and components, as I wouldn't think they are high enough volume to see huge gains. Guessing they tested mdf, plywood, and a dozen other things and found making the front 1" plywood was necessary, and mdf was good enough for the rest.

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3 minutes ago, iaRIVR said:

Interesting question, I would assume labor is by far the highest component in the cost of the speaker. Did a quick home depot check:

 

Particle board - 20

MDF 26

Plywood 40

they use BB  ------BALTIC BIRCH in speakers , it's more expensive than plywood -

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I'm almost positive the plywood in my chorus is not Baltic birch, not nearly enough layers. I build with both and the difference is easy to spot.

 

The numbers were just a quick and dirty comparison to get a sense of the relative difference.

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10 hours ago, RandyH000 said:

they use BB  ------BALTIC BIRCH in speakers , it's more expensive than plywood -

 

The Home Depot near me doesn’t know what Baltic birch is.  The last 4 x 8 sheet of 3/4 BB I ordered from the local lumberyard cost me just under $100.

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On 9/18/2020 at 10:45 PM, RandyH000 said:

Make sure to fill in the wood particles    that come off  from the MDF around the screw holes  for the woofer , I see T-Nuts in the holes for the passive woofer , great idea all around -

 

 

 

chorus 2 use T nuts     for the woofers too ,   you can see them in the holes around the woofer ,  in his pic-  

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