staining birch on hersey's

[mac10]

picked up a pair of h1 at yard sale that someone painted so I want to sand and stain any ideas

[Bubo]

Birch looks nice in natural if you can get the paint off

WATCO oil works

 

The cabinets are easy for someone who knows how to veneer, which opens up a lot of possibilities.

Local Cabinet makers should be able to do it, or recommend their outsource veneer guy

Also ask at your local furniture store or antique store who their veneer guy is....

[mac10]

thx the project is on 😃

[WMcD]

I think you should gather information.  It is my understanding that at the factory they made, of course, walnut veneered H1 and if there was a flaw in the veneer (probably even a small one) they'd spray them with black lacquer.  

 

OTOH some H1 were birch raw.  IIRC these had butt joint and the ends of the ply was not covered with a band of veneer.  The previous owner might have started with these.  It is quite possible that he used a latex paint.

 

If there is still a serial number sticker it reflect how the speaker box started life.

 

The point is that the underlying veneer might be birch or it might be walnut.  The paint might be lacquer or or it might be latex or something else.

 

What can you tell us, please.  What you have will dictate what advice you get here.  I hope others will comment.

 

WMcD 

[Peter P.]

2 hours ago, Bubo said:

Birch looks nice in natural if you can get the paint off

WATCO oil works

This has been my experience. Liquid strippers might raise the grain on the wood. If you're going this route, practice on a spare piece of birch, or at least on the bottom of the cabinet to see what results.

 

Sanding might not reach deep enough into the grain to remove the last traces so exercise caution and start with higher grades of sandpaper rather than lower.

 

And here's another vote for Watco Danish Oil. Better than stain. It really accents the grain of the wood. Stupid easy to apply and wipe off. Tip: Wipe off drips on hidden undersides of panels after each 15 minute application otherwise they tend to become permanent. I used Watco Danish Oil on all the doors in my condo, and on a weightlifting rack.  That's Dark Walnut on pine boards. Beautiful and easy.

 

 

[dtel]

14 hours ago, Peter P. said:

Sanding might not reach deep enough into the grain to remove the last traces so exercise caution and start with higher grades of sandpaper rather than lower.

Yes on veneer the outside layer is not real thick, be especially careful around corners.  

[M_Klipsches]

Post pictures of your project. Many years ago I had a similar project. As others have warned be careful if you sand them, as the veneer is quite thin. I managed to burn through a spot on the top of one of mine. If I had to do it again I’d first try a chemical strip (in a discrete spot) to see if it might work. After I managed to remove the three layers of paint, I stained and polyurethaned mine, I wish I’d just oiled them instead. Oh well, live & learn. Good luck. I hope you got a great “yard sale” deal. I’m never lucky enough to find those. 

[OO1]

11 minutes ago, M_Klipsches said:

Post pictures of your project. Many years ago I had a similar project. As others have warned be careful if you sand them, as the veneer is quite thin. I managed to burn through a spot on the top of one of mine. If I had to do it again I’d first try a chemical strip (in a discrete spot) to see if it might work. After I managed to remove the three layers of paint, I stained and polyurethaned mine, I wish I’d just oiled them instead. Oh well, live & learn. Good luck. I hope you got a great “yard sale” deal. I’m never lucky enough to find those. 

polyurethane can be wet sanded down for an even better flatter  look ,