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DOUBLE A

Bi amping RF-7II’s

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2 minutes ago, Zen Traveler said:

The question I feel you need to ask yourself is "how loud SPLwise do you want to listen?"and work backwards from there. You may be surprised how little power you need to get the dB you want.

 

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18 minutes ago, DOUBLE A said:

Do me a favor Bro... Please stay out of conversation.

If you notice, I typed my response before you typed that you didn't see the RMS rating.

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Welcome to the forum.

These members will help you sort it out. You are in the right place for correct answers.

Thanks!

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1 hour ago, billybob said:

Welcome to the forum.

These members will help you sort it out. You are in the right place for correct answers.

Thanks!

Well said Bro!  LOL, Now, to be serious for a moment, welcome to the forum, there are people providing information that have or have had RF7's, and I'm on that list as well.  I've run no less than 5 amps on my 7's, from 60 watt to probably 600 watts, not that they need it beyond a certain point.  They are currently being run with an Emotiva that's around 300 and it doesn't drive them any better than some Carvers I had on them at 200wpc and neither did the pro amps feeding them with 500+, but they do, IMHO sound better in the bass section to separate quality amps that are rated at or above the 150 mark.  The bass section responds much better, not louder, but there was a distinct difference to me in the bottom end.  Bi amping the 7's to me, is a waste of time, with the exception of possibly running an amp on the horn be it a tube, or another amp that would color the mids and highs, more to your liking.  My .02 worth.

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2 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

You need to learn the difference between RMS and Peak ratings before you go any further.

 

Maybe if you explained why you need 500 watts/speaker we would better understand what you're trying to accomplish.

 

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Thanks Pete !

Much Gratitude 

 

Basically, I do not want to under power the speakers in fear of blowing them via distortion. 

 

I also want to improve the low end down to 50hz and then have my 3 subs handle the lower frequencies.

 

My intention was to put 500 Watts “TOTAL”

to each RF-7, equaling 1- KDA-1000.

I just did some research and found that I can BRIDGE 1/2 & 3/4 via GUI if needed.

 

in your opinion would you go my route(500w) or stick with not bridging any channels and going with 250w per RF-7.

i also 100% do not want to blow the 7’s... lol.

I wish Klipsch’s cust serv would straighten their act out and start responding to their customers.

Had I known they were like this, I NEVER would have purchased over 15K in KLIPSCH products... But IMO ya can’t beat the sound.

 

Again Pete,

Much Gratitude 

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Just now, DOUBLE A said:

I also 100% do not want to blow the 7’s... lol.

You have more chance of blowing the speaker by over driving them and not by under powering them. If you aren't open to experimenting with an SPL meter see if you favorite material distorts at the volume you want to listen by gradually raising the volume level. If you keep the original crossover the tweeter isn't going to use anymore power than is provided with the jumpers in place.

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Can you blow the tweeter in an RF7-II? Yes. Will you be deaf before it happens?....What?  I can't hear you.........

So you are bi "amping" and still using the crossovers in the speaker? I don't get it.

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@Zen.. def buying a SPL meter within the week. Going to do this right..

 

@babadono lol.... can you hear me now ??

 

Thats what I was trying to figure out.

 

I don’t need to bi amp... Through some

research, I found that I can bridge the KDA-1000 via the GUI..

 

The manuals don’t tell you shite...

 

Edited by DOUBLE A
Double word

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19 minutes ago, DOUBLE A said:

 But IMO ya can’t beat the sound.

 

 

of course ...the RF7 MK II´s  can perform much better ...even without additional subs ......

 

 

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Hello and welcome to the forum!

 

Here is the connection for a passive bi-amplification, don't forget to remove the jonction plates on the RF7II terminal blocks :

 

Bi-Amping.jpg

 

 

 

 

Pics of Network RF7 II, Read all the pages, as there are a lot of photos and information.

 

 

 

 

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25 minutes ago, DOUBLE A said:

Thanks Pete !

Much Gratitude 

 

Basically, I do not want to under power the speakers in fear of blowing them via distortion. 

 

I also want to improve the low end down to 50hz and then have my 3 subs handle the lower frequencies.

 

My intention was to put 500 Watts “TOTAL”

to each RF-7, equaling 1- KDA-1000.

I just did some research and found that I can BRIDGE 1/2 & 3/4 via GUI if needed.

 

in your opinion would you go my route(500w) or stick with not bridging any channels and going with 250w per RF-7.

i also 100% do not want to blow the 7’s... lol.

I wish Klipsch’s cust serv would straighten their act out and start responding to their customers.

Had I known they were like this, I NEVER would have purchased over 15K in KLIPSCH products... But IMO ya can’t beat the sound.

 

Again Pete,

Much Gratitude 

My opinion would be to feed them 250 per channel and don't bi-amp and you're going to get everything out of the 7's that's intended, especially if you're crossing them at 50hz, higher depending on your subs and how you handle that frequency and where you want to take the subs up to.   Full disclosure, shortly, my 7's which are really my granddaughters, will be going into her bedroom and she will have a much lower watt receiver pushing them until I'm 100% certain that she's not going to damage her hearing or her speakers.  BTW, she's 3.5  

 

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37 minutes ago, babadono said:

C'mon I'll bet she's a 10:)

Obviously, we're a bit biased, so we couldn't even put a number on her.  

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