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[DirtyErnie]

n

[Chris A]

Quote

pea·nut gal·ler·y

/ˈpēnət ˈɡal(ə)rē/

 

noun informal•North American

noun: peanut gallery; plural noun: peanut galleries

1. the top gallery in a theater where the cheaper seats are located.

   • a group of people who criticize someone, often by focusing on insignificant details.

     "he might find that playing the sport he loves isn't worth the aggravation from the peanut gallery's probing of his privacy"

I don't consider myself part of a "peanut gallery", but I'll address your question:

 

1 hour ago, DirtyErnie said:

...re-imagining what a living-room friendly 100Hz horn could look like and came up with this.

~100- ~800hz,

8" driver on top, driving the full bandwidth

10" driver below, rolling off around 400hz (low enough to keep from affecting directivity due to height of the unit.

High-frequency horn TBD, will sit on top just fine.

16"w, 24"d, 33.5"h

I think this configuration makes a lot more sense if you're concerned about size--and performance:

 

 

This is no longer patented--i.e., the patent that defined that configuration has been expired for many years now.  It was held by Sound Physics Labs (US6411718).  It is the controlling patent for the Unity (Sound Physics Labs - now apparently defunct) and Synergy horns (Danley Sound Labs).  There are really good reasons to do it this way--not the least of which is that they sound really, really good.  The horns are really easy to build from plywood--and you can use Synergy Calc spreadsheet to lay out the horn with dual flare.

 

Here's multiple entry horn that has a -5 dB point of 110 Hz (50 Hz if it is on the floor) with no bends: 

 

 

It used to be common to run into DIY horn loudspeaker builders that thought that "...you can't do it that way...".  Those people that still say that either haven't heard one of these, or measured its performance.  It's astounding to hear to say the least...especially when you figure out how to avoid phase growth issues through the crossover networks.  There is no comparison, in my opinion.

 

So if you're going through the trouble of a complete new start, that's what I'd recommend.  I recommend a DSP crossover and multi-amp in order to get it dialed in initially, then you can use the settings determined from the DSP crossover to convert over to a passive network--if you're thinking of staying with passives. (I don't use passive crossover networks nowadays.)

 

Chris

[DirtyErnie]

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