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Refinishing Black RB-75's (or RB-76's)


kswitzer

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Well, the RB-76 crack is a nod to the fact these were listed as such on e-bay for $325 for the PAIR.  $80 shipping and 20 in tax, and I have my very own pair.  Both had superficial scratches, one pretty badly on the top, but I didn't want them black anyway.

 

 

Black scratches.png

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Someone somewhere said the black Klipsch paint comes off well with the orange citrus stripper.  I'm a fan and have used it many times on other products, so I had a jug lying around.

Stripper.png.98dabad5fb71d627b44cc827182b2163.png

 

The rubber feet pried off easy enough and I did a test patch on the bottom.

1592172940_Testpatchstrip.thumb.png.b5576bca4da6382b5b3c2ea02bf384b3.png

 

 

 

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49 minutes ago, RandyH000 said:

time to grab an orbital sander

Because I didn't know how thick the ash veneer was, no way I was gonna hit these with an electric sander.  I'm already done with refinishing them but hit my daily upload limit on the second post.  I'll resume tomorrow with smaller images... :)

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59 minutes ago, kswitzer said:

Someone somewhere said the black Klipsch paint comes off well with the orange citrus stripper.  I'm a fan and have used it many times on other products, so I had a jug lying ar

 

 

I've used a similar orange  product before , to remove thick encrusted glue ,--------nothing worked , except this stuff -

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9 hours ago, AndreG. said:

I used finest grade steel wool as last step and mineral spirits as well.

Me too.  I will get to that shortly.  At this stage I was just trying to open up the grain and get more of the black paint out of the ash grain.  The fine soft brass brush worked really well for that.  Basically I kept at it until no more color was coming off with my mineral spirit scrub.

 

I have a cherry R-112SW and cherry RP-440C, so I wanted to get some red into these cabinets.  I had some minwax Red Oak stain, so I slathered it on.  Man it looked pretty.

 

20201212_1236142.jpg.6c14ed61867e3e786f40a506f64972ac.jpg

 

I let the stain soak in until it was tacky, almost dry and then wiped off as much as I could.  Unfortunately that was almost all of it.   The stain just did not want to take.

 

After letting it dry overnight, I started with 100% tung oil diluted with mineral spirits.  The next day it was 0000 steel wool followed by 100% tung oil.  Same thing the day after that, and the day after that.

 

Then it was time for reassembly. 

 

 

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For those other geeks in these forums that want to see innards, here they are.

 

Empty box.  Very heavy even without the components.  Note the matching speaker tag with serial number inside the box.

 

20201210_1223072.jpg.ee7b7acb044dfb883d92e216bf0f9851.jpg

 

Crossover:

 

20201215_2046562.jpg.d652bdf1d43af3d0ff559f9d5f64c5c5.jpg

 

Driver with huge magnets...

 

20201216_1046052.jpg.6690a68982b9ff44c976628c8fd1bfec.jpg

 

And speaking of huge magnets, look at that horn (with ink pen for scale).

 

20201209_0832122.jpg.650e92d8d35599139e4763de33ad7153.jpg

 

Inside for dampening there's just one layer of loose foam.

 

20201215_2052352.jpg.7f23f9833527b3102b927108ab42643f.jpg

 

On the front, the driver goes direct against the wood, then a thin foam layer under the horn/faceplate:

 

20201216_1413092.jpg.b409d345c0d20beb048b7223b53ed734.jpg

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