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what is the best crossover frequ for la Scala clone ?


SpeedLimit

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Last saturday i bought a pair of peavey FH-1 cabinet.

I will put a Eminence kappa 15c inside.

I also build 2 k-401 clone Horns in mdf with atlas sound pd-5vh squawker, and i have 2 b&c de250 tweeters that i probably will change with de120 ones.

What is the best crossover for these speakers ?

I forgot to say i also have a al-3 crossover.

Linkwitz Riley, Bessel, Butterworth ?

Which slope, 12, 18, 24 dB/oct?

What about frequencies?

I think 450hz ans 4000hz would be good?

 

Let tell me what would the best crossover for this set if speakers.

 

I also have a Dayton audio dsp-408 to test several cross.

 

Best regards from the other side of the world.

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RandyH000, do you think my tweeters should be in 8 Ohms ?

 

Now i have 2 AL-3 original crossovers, 2 Kappa 15C Eminence woofers (4 ohms), 2 atlas sound pd-5vh squawkers (16 ohms), 2 B&C De250 16 ohms tweeters but i have seen that B&C De120 tweeters should be better for my "La Scala" clones ( with Peavey FH-1 box).

 

Do you think DE120 are better than DE250 ?  And should they be in 8 or 16 ohms with these crossovers ?

 

Will i have to change something on the AL-3 crossover to make them have a good sound ?

 

Sorry for my poor american spoken, i hope you understand what i mean.

 

 

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23 hours ago, SpeedLimit said:

RandyH000, do you think my tweeters should be in 8 Ohms ?

 

Now i have 2 AL-3 original crossovers, 2 Kappa 15C Eminence woofers (4 ohms), 2 atlas sound pd-5vh squawkers (16 ohms), 2 B&C De250 16 ohms tweeters but i have seen that B&C De120 tweeters should be better for my "La Scala" clones ( with Peavey FH-1 box).

 

Do you think DE120 are better than DE250 ?  And should they be in 8 or 16 ohms with these crossovers ?

 

Will i have to change something on the AL-3 crossover to make them have a good sound ?

 

Sorry for my poor american spoken, i hope you understand what i mean.

 

 

Salut ,  il faut  que les Tweeters soient des 8 ohms pour le AL-3 autrement  tu retranche 50%  du courant electrique via le reseau des capaciteurs vers les hautes frequences -  pour les tweeters ,   le B&C DE 10  8Ohms est superieur au DE 120 et en plus il est moins dispendieux ,  c'est aussi plus massif -

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Vous parlez français ?

 

En fait, je viens de commander les 2, les DE10 et les DE120 en 8 ohms ainsi qu'une paire de diaphragme de10 en 16 ohms au cas où j'en ai un autre usage.

Je testerai les 2 tweeters. C'est vrai que le DE10 sont beaucoup moins chers ..

Merci en tout cas pour tous les renseignements.

 

Je m'étais trompé pour les boomers, j'avais acheté les Kappa 15A en 8 ohms, je ferai un autre usage de ces haut-parleurs.

 

Il me reste à trouver une paire de K-401, car j'en ai fabriqué en bois mais je préférerais avoir les originaux qui seront bien mieux que mes copies en bois.

 

Merci encore RandyH000 et bon dimanche, le mien se termine bientôt ..

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19 minutes ago, SpeedLimit said:

 

 

Il me reste à trouver une paire de K-401, car j'en ai fabriqué en bois

-Salut -quand aux K 401 , J'aime mieux celles en aluminium k 400-----car cela fait ressortir les Cuivres et les Cymbales dans un son qui est plus naturel -  mais par contre le bois ,  s'il est poli avec un vernis lisse , ca devrait sonner tres bien  aussi  -

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Les versions en bois, je les ai fabriqué moi-même .. Ils sont moins jolis que les vrais .. mais effectivement, peut-être qu'ils sonneront bien.

 

J'ai commencé à rénover les coffrets peavey, retiré la peinture sono (avec des incrustations dedans) et je vais les repeindre en noir mat.

 

J'essaierai les clone scala avec les haut-parleurs que j'ai commandé d'abord avec le filtre AL-3 puis si ça ne convient pas, je ferai des tests avec le Dayton Audio DSP-408.

Je crois que Klipsch fait des filtrages en linkwitz riley .. Je ne sais pas ce qui est mieux, Bessel, LR, Butterworth et quel pente ( 6 - 12 - 18 ou 24 dB/oct)

 

J'ai encore le temps d'y réfléchir et de me documenter avant que mes haut-parleurs arrivent.

IMG_20201129_155330.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Hello

 

here are my Scala clones

 

Inside there is :

 

Eminence Kappa 15C (4 ohms) woofer

Atlas sound PD-5VH  squawker ( 16 ohms)

B&C DE10 tweeter (8 ohms)

Klipsch AL-3 original crossover

The horn is a clone of K-401 made with wood

 

At listening, it seems that the high frequencies are a little weak

 

Where do you think can be the problem ?

 

al-3 split.gif

IMG_20210220_105101.jpg

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just curious to know if you tried the speakers with the tweeter horns to the inside as opposed to the outside position and if so what did you notice? You are very close to the side walls and first bounce will have an impact. moving the CD rack forward toward the loudspeaker will let it provide some first bounce diffraction.

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Yes i could switch the 2 upper box (squawker and tweeter) but i just made a rapid test with an activ crossover ( Daytona DSP-408 ) and 3 power amps.

 

For my test, i have put 18 dB/oct slope for each cross ( 459 Hz and 4000 Hz ) .

 

It sound much better and we can hear the tweeter now.

 

i think the AL-3 is not good for the speakers ( particularely the squawker and the tweeter)  i have choosed for my clone scala.

 

Or the AL-3 has a too big attenuation for the tweeter

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On 2/21/2021 at 10:46 AM, SpeedLimit said:

Or the AL-3 has a too big attenuation for the tweeter

 

I wouldn't think so... the DE10 should have much higher output and higher freq. response than the K77 for which the al3 was designed.

 

Those look nice the way they turned out.

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On 2/21/2021 at 10:46 AM, SpeedLimit said:

Yes i could switch the 2 upper box (squawker and tweeter) but i just made a rapid test with an activ crossover ( Daytona DSP-408 ) and 3 power amps.

 

For my test, i have put 18 dB/oct slope for each cross ( 459 Hz and 4000 Hz ) .

 

It sound much better and we can hear the tweeter now.

 

i think the AL-3 is not good for the speakers ( particularely the squawker and the tweeter)  i have choosed for my clone scala.

 

Or the AL-3 has a too big attenuation for the tweeter

I wonder if the  Wood horn of the midrange  driver is simply too long  or the driver is placed too much  rearwards of the horn -

 

advance the midrange driver would be my 1st test   - does it get better ? - yes , then alter the tweeter positioning  above the mids horn , and center both drivers  , is it better yet ?  then look for a sweet spot  --and raise the top hat higher by 1 inch  -

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7 hours ago, RandyH000 said:

advance the midrange driver would be my 1st test   - does it get better ?

 

The long midrange horn is actually getting the driver in a closer position for time alignment with the woofer.

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You might try removing the RDE50 and 100 ohm resistor and see what effect that has. I had to do some searching to find out exactly what a RDE 50 is and what I find is it is a ceramic capacitor. Never seen that symbol before and not listed in an electronic symbol book I have. Anyways the circuit looks like it may be some kind of attenuation network. Might be just for frequencies above the human hearing range but not exactly sure what frequency without the value of capacitor stated. Worth a try anyways. Will not hurt anything. Not part of the crossover frequency network.  

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