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Exodus anarchy subwoofer question


Lbk

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Got some free 20 1/8 by 53 by 11/16 walnut veneer panels with 1.25 solid walnut edges off  craigslist. Started cutting outside panels for 2 exodus anarchy subwoofers today. 

 

Would it be safe to use these for the inside panels? Plans state 1/2 inch panels these are 3/16 over. There are 5 inside panels so that's 15/16 total. Do I need to  buy some 1/2 plywood for inside panels or can the over sized walnut panels be use safely. Thanks!

 

 

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It’s not clear to me if the wood is veneered plywood.  In any case, I would not do it.  The wood is free, but your time is not.  After investing your time and money on something that should last for decades, is it worth a few dollars to alter the internal dimensions and end up with something not designed and modeled by Lil’ Mike.

 

YMMV

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1 minute ago, DizRotus said:

It’s not clear to me if the wood is veneered plywood.  In any case, I would not do it.  The wood is free, but your time is not.  After investing your time and money on something that should last for decades, is it worth a few dollars to alter the internal dimensions and end up with something not designed and modeled by Lil’ Mike.

 

YMMV

Yes sorry veneered plywood, plywood looks to  be quality and that's why I was considering using it, good points.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/26/2021 at 12:02 PM, CECAA850 said:

Get the half inch plyvand be sure the horn path dimensions are spot on.

 

Build the outside with  the walnut veneered panels. Just picked up a some .5 BB plywood for inside. I will double check all internal measurements/panels.

 

Anybody build one of these, I have a mouth panel question.

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10 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

What is your question? 

Probably a minor question but do I need to be concerned about the baffle panel angles. Not on plans, ( that I can see) I can easily figure out. Does cutting baffle panel angles change length of  these enough to be.worried  about? Hope this makes sense, thanks.

 

 

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It’s not a minor question.  The positioning of the internal panels is critical.  Any significant deviation from Lil’Mike’s design will create something other than what was designEd and modeled.

 

Fortunately, the first four I built were flat packs from DIY Sound Group.  The prec-cut panels and dado cuts guaranteed proper panel placement.  Unfortunately, the flat packs are no longer available, apparently over concern that Lil’Mikes design could infringe a patent.  Whether or not the design infringes a patent does not prevent DIY construction for personal use, but you must follow accurate plans exactly if you want the designed and modeled results.  The fifth one I built from scratch following the plan exactly.   The plans I used are attached as a pdf.

 

As I recall, the plan did not refer to angles, but identified points using dimensions.  The specific length of each internal panel is indicated.  The end of an internal panel is located X inches from the side and Y inches from the top of a side panel.  The other end of the panel is also located by its distance from the side and top of a side panel.  If carefully followed as to all internal panels, the angles will take care of themselves.

 

 

Exodus Anarchy 25hz TH.pdf

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49 minutes ago, DizRotus said:

It’s not a minor question.  The positioning of the internal panels is critical.  Any significant deviation from Lil’Mike’s design will create something other than what was designEd and modeled.

 

Fortunately, the first four I built were flat packs from DIY Sound Group.  The prec-cut panels and dado cuts guaranteed proper panel placement.  Unfortunately, the flat packs are no longer available, apparently over concern that Lil’Mikes design could infringe a patent.  Whether or not the design infringes a patent does not prevent DIY construction for personal use, but you must follow accurate plans exactly if you want the designed and modeled results.  The fifth one I built from scratch following the plan exactly.   The plans I used are attached as a pdf.

 

As I recall, the plan did not refer to angles, but identified points using dimensions.  The specific length of each internal panel is indicated.  The end of an internal panel is located X inches from the side and Y inches from the top of a side panel.  The other end of the panel is also located by its distance from the side and top of a side panel.  If carefully followed as to all internal panels, the angles will take care of themselves.

 

 

Exodus Anarchy 25hz TH.pdf 465.48 kB · 3 downloads

Yes dimensions and points id.but without cutting minor angles there would be small gap at baffle panel connection. This would create a very slight change in panel lengths. Mouth panel baffle would overhang outside box slightly.

 

Not trying to be difficult just want to get it right. Thanks!

 

 

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14 minutes ago, Lbk said:

Yes dimensions and points id.but without cutting minor angles there would be small gap at baffle panel connection.

If you use PL Premium to assemble there will be no gaps.  To check for gaps prior to installing the last panel use a small pen light to check up and down the seam.  If light shines through, add some adhesive to that spot.

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33 minutes ago, Lbk said:

S Yes dimensions and points id.but without cutting minor angles there would be small gap at baffle panel connection. This would create a very slight change in panel lengths. Mouth panel baffle would overhang outside box slightly.

 

Not trying to be difficult just want to get it right. Thanks!

 

You do want to get it right.  To invest time and money to not get it right makes no sense.

 

I think I understand your question about the angles.  Are you concerned about the small gaps that result where the internal panels meet the top and bottom at slight angles?  If so, don’t be.  After the glue sets, before you put on the final side, caulk all the seams to fill in the tiny gaps and to guarantee the seal at the joints.  I used Loctite PL to glue everything together.  IMO, it is stronger than wood glue, such as Titebond.  It’s also more viscous, which helps to seal the joints.  That said, I used silicone caulk to seal the accessible joints after the Loctite PL had cured.

 

Obviously, you can’t caulk the joints between the final side and the internal panels after the side is in place.  The chewing gum texture of the Loctite PL gave me confidence in the strength and seal, more so than runny wood glue.

 

I drilled the holes in the final side panel and screwed it to the enclosure and internal panels WITHOUT GLUE to hold the internal panels in the proper alignment until the Glue cured.  Clamps held the the whole assembly tightly together until the glue cured.

 

When I reached the moment of truth to attach the final side panel, I applied Loctite PL to all mating surfaces and placed the side straight down on the perimeter and internal panels.  The side was then screwed and clamped until the glue cured.  If there are any leaks, the design is compromised.

 

Feel free to contact me by PM if you want to discuss this in further detail.  Good luck.

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10 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

If you use PL Premium to assemble there will be no gaps.  To check for gaps prior to installing the last panel use a small pen light to check up and down the seam.  If light shines through, add some adhesive to that spot.

I used  pocket joints and pl premium to put box together. It's was a little tricky (for me away) I did not want to run screws from outside of the box to inside and mess up the walnut veneer.

 

Pl premium to fill gaps is what I was thinking, wasn't sure if it would throw off specs. Didn't think about the flashlight  check, good idea. Hope to cut and install internals this weekend, glad I posted thanks for all the help.

 

 

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13 hours ago, Lbk said:

I did not want to run screws from outside of the box to inside and mess up the walnut veneer.

 

 

Understood.  Using weights, clamps and Loctite will be very strong.  In my case, veneer was never an issue.  Bondo and Duratex hide the numerous screws.

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, DizRotus said:

 

 

Understood.  Using weights, clamps and Loctite will be very strong.  In my case, veneer was never an issue.  Bondo and Duratex hide the numerous screws.

 

 

Build quite a few car sub boxes, bondo wrap it in poly fill then a colored vinyl. Pocket hole joints are new for me, lots to learn. 

 

Trying to build a small wood shop on a budget. So far I have bought a craftsman table saw, radial arm saw, miter saw, router with small table and cheap drill press. Hope to get it all set up this month so I can experiment with building horns and folded horn subs.

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1 hour ago, CECAA850 said:

Ok, how did you do that on the top side?

 

I can’t speak for Mike, but I spread a thin layer of Loctite on the underside of the remaining side (top) panel around the perimeter and where it meets the inner baffle panels.  Then I put a thick bead of Loctite in the corresponding locations of the assembled box.  Carefully lowering it straight down into place forced the viscous Loctite to squeeze out, sealing the joints.  The pre-drilled screw holes assured the alignment of the panel and the tight seal against the inner panels.

 

The dado cuts of the four flat packs were easier and more reassuring, but the Loctite and patience resulted in a strong and leak-free scratch-built unit number five.

 

If were using veneered panels, or if for any other reason using screws through the side panels were to be avoided, I would install at least two guide pins diagonally in two corners of the box to assure alignment.  To accomplish that without piercing the veneer, I would insert wood screws into the corners of the box down the point where the threads are fully into the wood.  I would then cut the heads off the screws and grind the stumps to a point.  With assistance, I would place the side panel on the pointed pegs to mark the location for holes in the panel to receive the pegs.  Again with assistance, I would use a drill press to drill holes to a depth of one half the thickness of the panel.  The points would be ground off the pegs leaving a smooth peg slightly shorter than the depth of the corresponding hole in the panel.

 

That’s a lot of work to avoid piercing veneer, but I would want the assurance of alignment provided by the guide pins.  The glued panel would still need to be held in place by weights and/or clamps until the Loctite cured.

 

If I wanted veneer, I would apply veneer AFTER assembling the boxes and hiding imperfections, screws, etc with Bondo.  Fortunately, in my basement man-cave veneer was unnecessary.  I prefer the rounded corner look using a router and the “hides a multitude of sins” coverage of textured Duratex.  That said, I greatly admire the skill and persistence required to cover large boxes with beautiful hardwood veneers.

 

 

68E97DA2-D7D3-43F2-ADF2-3C589440372A.jpeg

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