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Exodus anarchy subwoofer question


Lbk

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There is only one good time to put it in, and that is before you slam it shut.

My concern is that if you look closely at the labyrinth pattern, each section taper out and gets larger and each turn is subsequently larger in volume. Thus the idea of folding a horn. If you add this foam, you reduce this expanding volume at each turn. May be an issue, maybe not. Just one man's opinion.

566801825_subfoam.jpg.2e2035c5039764815ba7246fdc363bcc.jpgbadtap.thumb.jpg.24f28a8eb98e142d8c1a48c44919b629.jpg

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57 minutes ago, Lbk said:

Charts from lil Mike but doesn't state with or without quiet liner. (Skimmed over thread, 50 some pages long) Have to assume test was with liner? Home depot has a similar cotton duct liner cheaper and in a smaller quantity. Can't hurt so I think I will try it, it's only about 13 bucks.

 

Yes, the thread with pic lists quiet liner on building materials sheet.

 

 

 

Lil Mike never used liners during measuring as I recall.  People like to tweak designs and have probably added it.  None of his flat packs ever came with liner.  Certainly can't hurt though.  Maybe that was something added after I researched and built mine.

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41 minutes ago, MookieStl said:

There is only one good time to put it in, and that is before you slam it shut.

My concern is that if you look closely at the labyrinth pattern, each section taper out and gets larger and each turn is subsequently larger in volume. Thus the idea of folding a horn. If you add this foam, you reduce this expanding volume at each turn. May be an issue, maybe not. Just one man's opinion.

566801825_subfoam.jpg.2e2035c5039764815ba7246fdc363bcc.jpgbadtap.thumb.jpg.24f28a8eb98e142d8c1a48c44919b629.jpg

I think its for higher frequencies like maybe 2nd or 3rd order harmonics.  The low stuff should pass right through it.

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3 hours ago, DizRotus said:

IIRC, Lil’Mike said liner made no difference, and recommended leaving it out.  None of mine has liner.

 

Ok When I get back to it I will leave it out. Going to order subs tomorrow and finish boxes this weekend. Thanks for all the help!

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I understand the thinking that says, “what’s the harm, it might help, and now’s the time to do it.”  One flaw in that theory is that once sealed in place, it cannot be easily removed.  If the liner were to come loose, it could obstruct the path.  The designer of the sub said it isn’t needed, which was good enough for me.

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20 minutes ago, DizRotus said:

I understand the thinking that says, “what’s the harm, it might help, and now’s the time to do it.”  One flaw in that theory is that once sealed in place, it cannot be easily removed.  If the liner were to come loose, it could obstruct the path.  The designer of the sub said it isn’t needed, which was good enough for me.

Good enough for me too, just wanted to get it right the first time. Just order 2 subs for the boxes, hopefully next weekend I will have them up and running. 

 

 

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2 hours ago, rockhound said:

What amp will you be driving these with?

I have a 100 watt per kenwood with a 20hz filter.  Bought it off craigslist for 20 bucks, if it doesn't work out I will  buy something more appropriate.

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1 hour ago, CECAA850 said:

As far as wattage goes, that's plenty.

Ok I was wrong, I do have a kenwood km 208 but it does not have the sub sonic filter. The one I was thinking of is a Yamaha ax592  integrated amp does a 100 watts per channel and  has a  20hz sub sonic filter. Haven't use it in a while so I'll have to test it out this weekend.

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14 hours ago, MookieStl said:

Did I miss this? What driver or you planning to use?

I order 2 from DIY audio, these where manufacturers by lik Mike with same specs as orginal.

 

I am thinking about using double sided stick tape on inside piece's to help insure a good seal. Either full 1/2 stripe or 1/8 stripe on each end to form a channel for pl premium. ( may push out tape? ) Thoughts, thanks!

 

 

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1 hour ago, Lbk said:

I order 2 from DIY audio, these where manufacturers by lik Mike with same specs as orginal.

 

I am thinking about using double sided stick tape on inside piece's to help insure a good seal. Either full 1/2 stripe or 1/8 stripe on each end to form a channel for pl premium. ( may push out tape? ) Thoughts, thanks!

 

 

Definitely do not use tape between panels that are meant to be permanently attached to each other.

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I drew the panel out (interior pieces) then like diz said put a thick layer of PL on and then screwed it to those inside panels. Having a drawing of where those pieces are made it easy. Once it dries unscrew, fill the holes, sand and apply duratex.

 

See attached pic for reference this would be your top panel facing you so you know exactly where to put the screws.

drawing.jpg

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