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Popatop

Cornwall problems

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Hello Members!

I could use some help please.
Got a pair of, I think, 76 cornwalls off Craigslist. Sounded ok at first. I have another pair that really blow these away so I’ve been quite unhappy with them really. Now I have no sound coming from one of the tweeters and very scratchy noise from the same speakers squawker.  Crossover is labeled a Type E. I tightened all connections.  Some were quite loose but tightening didn’t help. 
any suggestions?

Also. After playing for awhile, the squawks improve drastically but still no sound from the tweeter. 

Thank you. 

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10 hours ago, Popatop said:

Hello Members!

I could use some help please.
Got a pair of, I think, 76 cornwalls off Craigslist. Sounded ok at first. I have another pair that really blow these away so I’ve been quite unhappy with them really. Now I have no sound coming from one of the tweeters and very scratchy noise from the same speakers squawker.  Crossover is labeled a Type E. I tightened all connections.  Some were quite loose but tightening didn’t help. 
any suggestions?

Also. After playing for awhile, the squawks improve drastically but still no sound from the tweeter. 

Thank you. 

 

The Type E crossover was designed for the Heresy, not the Cornwall.  I believe the 76 Cornwall should have the Type B (?).

Do both speakers have the same crossover type?  Pictures will help.  

Do you have a multimeter to check if the tweeter is okay?

 

 

 

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 Thanks Craigslist guy.   My bargain isn’t.   Attached is a pic of the speaker setup. I have a multi meter but unsure how to check the tweeter.  Type e crossovers in both speakers.  🤷‍♂️
‘thanks very much for you help mboxler!

F78A4879-DE37-4117-A453-74C6F0CF7E90.png

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The E network and B network are practically identical except , for the  difference of the size of 1 of the 2 capacitors on the crossover  ------anyone can transform an E network into a B and vice versa -----if both caps are 2uF , It's an E  configuration ,  if not , it's a B configuration ---------check both caps  for the correct values -

 

- to verify if the tweeter is open and has a defective diaphragm , the multimeter would read 0  Ohms or open  , you can do this by connecting the prongs to the positive and the  negative terminals of the tweeter   , if the tweeter reads  between 5.2 and 6,2  Ohms , it is not defective -

 

swap the defective tweeter to the speaker that has a functional tweeter is another way to know if one of the tweeters is defective -

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First thing to do is unscrew and then tighten all input and output screws on the crossover to remove oxidation.  Then, unless the input wires on each driver are soldered, disconnect and reconnect the input wires at each driver multiple times.

I do this with any older speaker I buy. 

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9 hours ago, Popatop said:

 Thanks Craigslist guy.   My bargain isn’t.   Attached is a pic of the speaker setup. I have a multi meter but unsure how to check the tweeter.  Type e crossovers in both speakers.  🤷‍♂️
‘thanks very much for you help mboxler!

F78A4879-DE37-4117-A453-74C6F0CF7E90.png

 

One of the original owners may have done this on purpose.  If it truly has Type E component values, the squawker and tweeter levels will be down 3dB each, 

and crossed at a slightly higher frequency vs a type B.  In other words, an increase in bass.

 

As @RandyH000 mentioned, converting it back to a B requires one capacitor change and two autoformer tap changes.  If you are handy with a soldering iron this is a relatively easy project, but I'd fix the other issues first.  You may like the sound of the Type E better than the Type B!

 

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One of my disappointments with this set is the lack of bass compared to my other set. My next day off will be spent checking this out!  Thanks fellas for the insight! This is a wonderful site!

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An update on my dilemma,  the squawker and tweeter were blown, and the crossovers were indeed type E. Mr Crites sent me some new B-2 crossovers and is fixing the diaphragm problems. I’ll be back in action soon!  Thanks to everyone for helping me out!!

Patrick

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28 minutes ago, Popatop said:

 Thanks to everyone for helping me out

Patrick ,  you could send in your E network to @JEM Performance , if ever you wish to revamp these E networks into a B or B2 , JEM  use solely klipsch spec parts , and that makes all the difference -

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Crites will take care of it.

Welcome to the forum!

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Good choice on the B-2 network. IMO it is the best Klipsch designed network for the Cornwall 1. Good choice going with Crites as well; you won't be disappointed!

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Well Guys, I replaced the crossovers with the Crites B-2..........wow! The Cornwalls sprang to life!  I changed out the blue tooth connector to my old amp and that stopped the issue I was having with the tweeter and squawker loss. 
 

I’m a happy Cornwall fan!

 

thanks for all the help!!!

 

Patrick

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actually , you're a happy Crites fan- the sound signature of an original  klipsch B-2 crossover using klipsch capacitors would be the real Cornwall sound  --

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1 hour ago, Popatop said:

Well Guys, I replaced the crossovers with the Crites B-2..........wow! The Cornwalls sprang to life!  I changed out the blue tooth connector to my old amp and that stopped the issue I was having with the tweeter and squawker loss. 
 

I’m a happy Cornwall fan!

 

thanks for all the help!!!

 

Patrick

Happy is good... congrats!

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