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8 Ohms

Pair of Forte - Denver, CO $700.00

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Those passives look like they're from an old pair of Polks. 

 

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I would like the Sansui 771, and would rather have the 881 to ab to the HK730. 

Even though the tags are gone, they look to be consecutively numbered, per the wood. I really do like the veneer and hopefully the new owner can get the scratches out and make them like new.

Question(s): What wood is that? It looks too light to be Walnut and they don't look like most Oaks (too swirly). Were Cherry Forte ever made? 

 

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2 hours ago, wuzzzer said:

Those passives look like they're from an old pair of Polks. 

 

oAJsOLlktdCPjZ85cS-ZcsLY8TD96-Y-sIZqjLrm

I had a pair of the SDA SRS, wish that I still had them... along with some other equipment... and a few GFs lol. 

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10 hours ago, Woofers and Tweeters said:

Question(s): What wood is that? It looks too light to be Walnut and they don't look like most Oaks (too swirly). Were Cherry Forte ever made? 

 

 

That's walnut for sure.  Those would be easy to bring back.  A hot soldiering iron and a wet rag is good at steaming dents and scratches prior to sanding. 

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1 hour ago, Godataloss said:

That's walnut for sure.  Those would be easy to bring back.  A hot soldiering iron and a wet rag is good at steaming dents and scratches prior to sanding. 

Not trying to doubt what you're saying. Most flat cut Walnut doesn't have that many waves and typically has a lot of straight tight grain on each side.

walnut.jpg.69283316ba2b14f79b97aa90239c529b.jpg

 

Cherry, on the other hand, has lots of waves and wide wavy grain. 

 

Flat-cut-cherry.jpg.9f30c5bd9ac8aaac83118ac38f2e3904.jpg

 

 

Walnut's color will lighten due to UV, and those look pretty light. 

Anyhow, the wood looks to be a little bit special and hopefully they get refinished. 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Woofers and Tweeters said:

Not trying to doubt what you're saying. Most flat cut Walnut doesn't have that many waves and typically has a lot of straight tight grain on each side.

 

Cherry, on the other hand, has lots of waves and wide wavy grain. 

 

Walnut's color will lighten due to UV, and those look pretty light. 

Anyhow, the wood looks to be a little bit special and hopefully they get refinished. 

 

 

 

Walnut can be pretty wild.  This is a dresser I refinished (there is no finish on this piece-  just wiped with mineral spirits).  Also an oil finish will naturally darken over time if properly maintained.  This is why I recommend people use the Watco in natural (no stain added) on walnut, because the linseed will darken naturally over time.  You're probably right about the ones pictured-  they look dry as hell and like they were stored on a sun porch.  I'd love to get my hands on them.

1952802705_walnutdresserb.thumb.jpg.bb6007d927e3e169a65aa265c3036f0a.jpg

 

 

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8 minutes ago, Godataloss said:

 

 I'd love to get my hands on them.

these speakers have serious deep  scratches in the veneer  ---how do you get rid of these ,  you can only sand so much

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i would not consider the scratches "serious deep"... owner states, " no significant scratches, dings or dents"... 

 

hard to tell how deep they are in the pic but they dont look very deep & definitely dont go through the veneer.  while the veneer isnt overly thick on klipsch speakers, it will allow quite a bit of sanding to remove most scratches, easily up to a fingernail thickness or more.  some light sanding & fresh oil/stain will make these look very nice & likely hide the scratches.  ive repaired pretty deep scratches on these veneers & never broke through.

 

 

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2 hours ago, RandyH000 said:

these speakers have serious deep  scratches in the veneer  ---how do you get rid of these ,  you can only sand so much

I take a soldering iron and a damp rag.  I put the wet rag over the scratch and touch the soldering iron to it.  The steam causes the wood fibers to swell a bit and decompress from the damage so that you can remove less material when you sand in order to get the surface flush.  It also works on dents.  If the scratch is completely through the veneer, you can try to fill with the sawdust from sanding and a bit of wood glue applied to the scratch with a toothpick, allowed to dry and then sanded flush.  

 

 

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1 minute ago, Godataloss said:

I take a soldering iron and a damp rag.  I put the wet rag over the scratch and touch the soldering iron to it.  The steam causes the wood fibers to swell a bit and decompress from the damage so that you can remove less material when you sand in order to get the surface flush.  It also works on dents.  If the scratch is completely through the veneer, you can try to fill with the sawdust from sanding and a bit of wood glue applied to the scratch with a toothpick, allowed to dry and then sanded flush.  

 

 

Fantastic  -------this is really a different approach , thank you

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19 hours ago, Godataloss said:

I take a soldering iron and a damp rag.  I put the wet rag over the scratch and touch the soldering iron to it.  The steam causes the wood fibers to swell a bit and decompress from the damage so that you can remove less material when you sand in order to get the surface flush.  It also works on dents.  If the scratch is completely through the veneer, you can try to fill with the sawdust from sanding and a bit of wood glue applied to the scratch with a toothpick, allowed to dry and then sanded flush.  

 

 

 

good idea on the soldering iron & damp rag... but an FYI for using sawdust & wood glue, this approach will fill the scratches but wood glue doesnt take stain or oil like the raw wood & will likely be a different color than the original wood.  i used to know a "carpenter" guy that did this to fill voids & gaps on his crappy built furniture & projects & it looked good until stain was applied, then it showed up terribly bad as a different color because the glue doesnt absorb the stain. the directions on wood glue even say to sand off any glue before staining because of this...  for superficial scratches like in these speakers, sanding them out or using the solder gun trick is the best way to fix them IMO.  

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Not sure I'd want them w/o the original passive radiators. Not at that price.

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