TexDrone Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 I apologize in advance if this has been covered many times over. How exactly do I bypass, or disconnect, the passive crossovers in Heresy III speakers in order to configure them for biamp with active crossover? Just trying to figure out if it's as simple as removing a wire, or much more complex. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuzzzer Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 The crossover is mounted to the back of the input terminal. Each driver wire should be soldered to the crossover. You'll have to either unsolder the wires or clip them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fmalloy Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 12 minutes ago, wuzzzer said: The crossover is mounted to the back of the input terminal. Each driver wire should be soldered to the crossover. You'll have to either unsolder the wires or clip them. Oh, so on the III the crossover is not on a wood board attached to the side or bottom of the speaker? That's all I've seen from photos here... Any pics of this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexDrone Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 3 minutes ago, fmalloy said: Oh, so on the III the crossover is not on a wood board attached to the side or bottom of the speaker? That's all I've seen from photos here... Any pics of this? No, I can take it apart and get some photos... but probably not tonight. Wife is watching TV at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuzzzer Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 4 minutes ago, fmalloy said: Oh, so on the III the crossover is not on a wood board attached to the side or bottom of the speaker? That's all I've seen from photos here... Any pics of this? No, Klipsch started mounting on the back of the terminal cup with the Heresy II model. Here's a pic from the forum: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexDrone Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 1 minute ago, wuzzzer said: No, Klipsch started mounting on the back of the terminal cup with the Heresy II model. Here's a pic from the forum: Which wires need to be removed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuzzzer Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 The red and white wires at the top of the pic connect the input terminals to the crossover. The copper wires to the left connect the drivers to the crossover. How exactly are you planning on biamping? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexDrone Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 4 minutes ago, wuzzzer said: The red and white wires at the top of the pic connect the input terminals to the crossover. The copper wires to the left connect the drivers to the crossover. Just to be clear, I need to remove the copper wires between the drivers and crossover? (The ones one the left in the image) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 41 minutes ago, TexDrone said: How exactly do I bypass, or disconnect, the passive crossovers in Heresy III speakers in order to configure them for biamp with active crossover? you can PM @Chris A , he's the Guru for Active Crossovers on this forum -he'll give you the right advice for Biamping and dialing in the active crossover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexDrone Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 1 minute ago, RandyH000 said: you can PM @Chris A , he's the Guru for Active Crossovers on this forum -he'll give you the right advice for Biamping and dialing in the active crossover Thanks! Will do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 So, are you planning to triamp? If you biamp, I assume you will need a crossover to power the mid and tweeter together, yes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexDrone Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 1 minute ago, Marvel said: So, are you planning to triamp? If you biamp, I assume you will need a crossover to power the mid and tweeter together, yes? I plan to to biamp, and open to all suggestions. Anyone using the DBX 260 or PA2? As for amps - planning to add a second parasound 275. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 So you will still need a passive crossover section and will not gain the advantage of time and phase alignment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexDrone Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 18 minutes ago, wuzzzer said: The red and white wires at the top of the pic connect the input terminals to the crossover. The copper wires to the left connect the drivers to the crossover. The Mandalorian - Baby Yoda is an electric engineer-ZYCVwPzPdJM.mp4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexDrone Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 1 minute ago, Marvel said: So you will still need a passive crossover section and will not gain the advantage of time and phase alignment. Would the crossovers from my Parasound preamp work? https://parasound.com/200_Pre.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 11 minutes ago, TexDrone said: Would the crossovers from my Parasound preamp work? https://parasound.com/200_Pre.php Your preamp only has a crossover for a subwoofer output. It is a stereo preamp... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 21 minutes ago, TexDrone said: Would the crossovers from my Parasound preamp work? https://parasound.com/200_Pre.php https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4-hd?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlYLSuoSn7gIVgoNbCh23wQMPEAAYASAAEgLoH_D_BwE 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ceptorman Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Texdrone, you may want to do some more research before you start cutting wires in your XOs. The end result can be rewarding, but there's a lot to know before you get to that point. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexDrone Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 (edited) 21 hours ago, RandyH000 said: https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4-hd?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlYLSuoSn7gIVgoNbCh23wQMPEAAYASAAEgLoH_D_BwE Those are nice! I mentioned the DBX 260 ... but was told that I still need a passive crossover... in addition to an active crossover. 21 hours ago, Marvel said: So you will still need a passive crossover section and will not gain the advantage of time and phase alignment. Edited January 20, 2021 by TexDrone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexDrone Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 21 hours ago, Marvel said: So you will still need a passive crossover section and will not gain the advantage of time and phase alignment. So you are saying still need a passive crossover, in addition to an active crossover like the DBX 260 provides? That seems to contradict what I am getting from this sticky... but I could be misunderstanding the information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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