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TexDrone

Heresy III - How to remove passive crossover

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2 minutes ago, TexDrone said:

 

Those are nice! I mentioned the DBX 260 ... but was told that I still need a passive crossover... in addition to an active crossover.

 

the MINI DSP would be  the least expensive options , then you go  up  in price  ------Driverack PA2 ,  EV Dx38  ---XILICA

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2 minutes ago, RandyH000 said:

the MINI DSP would be  the least expensive options , then you go  up  in price  ------Driverack PA2 ,  EV Dx38  ---XILICA

Got it. Would I still need a passive crossover at this point? 

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TD,

I'm sorry, I wasn't giving you enough info.

 

The driverack would give you up to 6 outputs. This is what you would need ti feed two 3 way speakers. BUT, you would need 6 channels of amplifiers, i.e., three stereo power amps. A stereo amp for the left/ right woofers, one for the midrange and one for the tweeter. 

 

I only referenced using a passive for the mid/tweeter if you were only going to have 4 channels of amp outputs.

 

I'm not trying to confuse you, but responding to what you posted.

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22 minutes ago, TexDrone said:

 

here is the  diagram  --------preamp--- Mini DSP  ------amplifier ---2 speakers - 1 sub

three way plus sub

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5 minutes ago, Marvel said:

TD,

I'm sorry, I wasn't giving you enough info.

 

The driverack would give you up to 6 outputs. This is what you would need ti feed two 3 way speakers. BUT, you would need 6 channels of amplifiers, i.e., three stereo power amps. A stereo amp for the left/ right woofers, one for the midrange and one for the tweeter. 

 

I only referenced using a passive for the mid/tweeter if you were only going to have 4 channels of amp outputs.

 

I'm not trying to confuse you, but responding to what you posted.

 

I think I understand what you were getting at. I would still need the passive crossover, in some capacity, if I was not going to tri-amp... and tri-amp might be in interesting way to go.

 

My original question was, or at least I meant for it to be, how do I disconnect the crossover in the speaker from the woofers so that I can bi-amp... and yes, I would still need that passive crossover in the speaker for the midrange and tweeters. The DBX 260 could handle the active portion at that point, sending mids/highs to one amp and lows to another... with the mids/highs still being handled by the passive crossover. Is that correct?    

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3 minutes ago, RandyH000 said:

here is the  diagram  --------preamp--- Mini DSP  ------amplifier ---2 speakers - 1 sub

 

 

That makes sense. I just need to get a look at the passive crossover and make sure I understand what exactly needs to be disconnected. 

 

I also have some empty Heresy I cabinets that I have been planning to build out. Perhaps starting from scratch would make more sense and help me to understand more along the way. IF you were going to bi or tri amp a pair of H1s... what passive crossover would you start with? 

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40 minutes ago, TexDrone said:

 

I think I understand what you were getting at. I would still need the passive crossover, in some capacity, if I was not going to tri-amp... and tri-amp might be in interesting way to go.

 

My original question was, or at least I meant for it to be, how do I disconnect the crossover in the speaker from the woofers so that I can bi-amp... and yes, I would still need that passive crossover in the speaker for the midrange and tweeters. The DBX 260 could handle the active portion at that point, sending mids/highs to one amp and lows to another... with the mids/highs still being handled by the passive crossover. Is that correct?    

 

Yes,  absolutely correct. Not sure how to split off the mid/tweeter part of the crossover  though.

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56 minutes ago, TexDrone said:

IF you were going to bi or tri amp a pair of H1s... what passive crossover would you start with? 

I would not use a passive network  , because  an active setup  would result in cleaner bass , mids ,  highs -

2nd mixing a passive and an active network can be the worst of 2  scenarios -

 

I forgot to mention that Hypex now offer plate amps-equipped with DSP --https://www.hypex.nl/product/fusionamp-fa123/154

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1 hour ago, Marvel said:

TD,

I'm sorry, I wasn't giving you enough info.

 

The driverack would give you up to 6 outputs. This is what you would need ti feed two 3 way speakers. BUT, you would need 6 channels of amplifiers, i.e., three stereo power amps. A stereo amp for the left/ right woofers, one for the midrange and one for the tweeter. 

 

I only referenced using a passive for the mid/tweeter if you were only going to have 4 channels of amp outputs.

 

I'm not trying to confuse you, but responding to what you posted.

Yes, triamp, not biamp. 

 

Bi amp will need part of the passive still intact, likely the mid to tweeter portion.

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Be careful.

 

I suspect the HIII has a second order crossover for the woofer.  If so, when you remove the connection to the woofer the crossover will form a series LC circuit to ground (i.e. across the input terminal).  This will create a short circuit at about the crossover frequency.  Damage to the L and C is certainly possible.

 

I think of this tip from a moderator here long ago.  Independent of that, I read about a train wreck in a non-Klipsch unit pro unit where a bass driver was found blown, the cross over was found foblown, and the amp was found blown.   

 

I suspect what happened was that the woofer was driven to destruction and was an open circuit and this caused the LC short.  Then it was a race between whether the crossover components burned out from taking all that currect, or the amp was blown from the effective short circuit.  (I suppose the coil could overheat causing a fire though I'm not sure.)

 

Maybe someone can give advice on electrically disconnecting the LC,  I suppose you could replace the woofer connection with a dummy load resistor of appropriate rating.  However, that could heat up and cause a fire in the box. 

 

"Let's be careful out there."  per Sgt. Phil Esterhaus

 

WMcD

 

 

 

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On 1/19/2021 at 8:24 PM, RandyH000 said:

I would not use a passive network  , because  an active setup  would result in cleaner bass , mids ,  highs -

2nd mixing a passive and an active network can be the worst of 2  scenarios -

 

I forgot to mention that Hypex now offer plate amps-equipped with DSP --https://www.hypex.nl/product/fusionamp-fa123/154

How do most folks add three pair of binding post to a H3? I have looked all over and have yet to locate a one that would swap out for the H3 cup with dual binding posts. Thanks again!

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