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Help building LaScalas


rmichael21

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So I bought a pair of LaScalas I intended to use on an enclosed screened in patio. My friend paints boats and said he would paint the boxes in awlgrip which is a industrial strength all weather marine paint. Well, I never got the boxes back but I have the drivers and crossovers. I'm a decent carpenter and would like to build my own boxes. I would appreciate help with plans and advice on how to go about this.

  Mike

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Do a search on the threads by "DJK" He has a trick for doing the steep bevel cuts on the front (divider) .

 

It would also be a chance to do a modification to make it a ported cabinet (there are pros and cons to that that mod - so think it through). This mod was also done by DJK, but remember it requires a PEQ filter on the low end (most folks ignore this detail). Just search the threads.

 

 

Good luck,

-Tom

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You should use the search function on the forum to find LaScala plans.  You'll see the option to search for content with all words rather than any word.  You'll see several plans and it is worth taking a look at all available .

 

Among the results is my post with the plans by HDBR.  I can vouch they are absolutely accurate to the extent I used the info to make  full  size drawings.  I suggest you do the same.  I know  grid paper of that size is expensive.  Let me point out that some Christmas wrap has a 1" x 1" grid on the back.  Hallmark?

 

There is video someplace (someone will help, please) showing the factory construntion of an LSII.  It is make of 1" MDF.  If you like the separate "top-hat you figure that out easily.  Also, you'll note the dog-house (shaped like that and the woofer lives there!!!) is built up separately with "home plate shaped elements at the top and bottom and the assembly is slided into the cubic box.  Otherwise it is a bear to get everything lined up.

 

Let me suggest you don't try to make the sharply poiinted front of the doghouse because that cut is very diffiult.  Rather, replace it with a 1.5 inch wide board similar to the Belle.  

 

I would not use MDF in the weather though if painted with boat paint everywhere on normal 3/4" ply you might be okay without marine plywood which is expensive.  

 

There is the theory that the sides resonate and at least some builders put a brace between the wall of the doghouse and the wall of the cubic box.  1.5" wide should do.  

 

Of course critters will love to build a nest in them and you should consider metal screening as necessary.  Those braces could be put to use in this aspect.

 

WMcD

 

 

 

 

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rather than build a LaScala why not consider building a slightly larger Peavey FH1 which is more like a Belle but better than both Belle or LaScala? The FH1 is longer has no dead spots like LaScala has larger mouth has no cabinet resonance issues and has wider bandwidth uses the same drivers as either LaScala or Bella.

fh1_002.pdf

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I have Dennis' notes on the build, and J. Easley's pdf of drawings/measurements (submitted by multiple folks).

 

The FH-1 cabinet measures close to the same as the LS. It would be easier to build.

 

Since you couldn't really call them Klipsch (no matter how close to klipsch measuements you make them), I would build the FH-1 cabs.

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I just noticed this in Djk's build notes, and wondered if the pro LS had this:

 

"Note: If you intend to build an INDUSTRIL WOOFER-POWRED Lascala, rout out a "p-trap" on the bass bin top panel(a small opening about 1" X 1/2" that relieves woofer pressure from inside the doghouse, and allows for more driver excursion) "

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On 1/31/2021 at 6:28 AM, Marvel said:

I just noticed this in Djk's build notes, and wondered if the pro LS had this:

 

"Note: If you intend to build an INDUSTRIL WOOFER-POWRED Lascala, rout out a "p-trap" on the bass bin top panel(a small opening about 1" X 1/2" that relieves woofer pressure from inside the doghouse, and allows for more driver excursion) "

I wondered the same thing. Does this allow the K-43 to dig deeper?

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Just to continue my earlier, if overly long post . . .  

 

The "ramps also have a sharp angle which is difficult to cut.  So I just used a less steep angle on that end of the ramp and use a 1/4 round piece of trim.  A 3/4 x 3/4 piece would do as well.  

 

I also did use "reflectors" as shown in the Peavy.  I don't think they reflect but should even out the cross section a bit going round the bend.  

 

Let me again suggest the form factor of the LSII.  This is because the bass bin is about a 2' cube.  But importantly, all the vertically oriented elements should stand between the upper and lower square plates.  Therefore it is important that they all be the same length (height) but an identical error is not of consequence.  You can rip a 4' x 8'  and make sure the cut is arallel to the edge but not really worry about the kerf.

 

WMcD

 

 

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39 minutes ago, WMcD said:

Just to continue my earlier, if overly long post . . .  

 

The "ramps also have a sharp angle which is difficult to cut.  So I just used a less steep angle on that end of the ramp and use a 1/4 round piece of trim.  A 3/4 x 3/4 piece would do as well.  

 

I also did use "reflectors" as shown in the Peavy.  I don't think they reflect but should even out the cross section a bit going round the bend.  

 

Let me again suggest the form factor of the LSII.  This is because the bass bin is about a 2' cube.  But importantly, all the vertically oriented elements should stand between the upper and lower square plates.  Therefore it is important that they all be the same length (height) but an identical error is not of consequence.  You can rip a 4' x 8'  and make sure the cut is arallel to the edge but not really worry about the kerf.

 

WMcD

 

 

the corner reflectors are only useful or desired if you want to obtain the maximum high frequency output out of the horn which if you really think about it is not a good plan. This is why you see so few reflectors in folded bass horns. Better to let those high frequencies get canceled and die inside the cabinet and never let them enter your room. Mid/hi radiation is is for the midhorn/tweeter only to provide. A bass horn should only radiate bass, smaller horns will do the rest and they will do that job better.

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