Advice Sought for New Home Construction

[Ceptorman]

3 hours ago, Pete H said:

Sorry Edgar, it seems like almost nobody is listening to the fact that you're not doing 9' walls, despite having told them that many times.  I, on the other hand, have read what you said and commented based on what matters to you, but these other jokers can't seem to comprehend, so you're gonna have to get a little more abrupt.  LOL

 

EDGAR DOESN'T WANT TALLER WALLS, HE HAS NO NEED FOR TALLER WALLS AND AS FOR YOUR THEORY ON RESALE VALUE, HE'S NOT PLANNING ON SELLING THIS.  

 

Bunch of stubborn SOBs on this forum.  LOL  Happy Thursday! 

I told him that, thought you were paying attention 😀

[Ceptorman]

3 hours ago, Bubo said:

 

A finished 8ft ceiling in a basement becomes a finished 6.5-7ft ceiling due to HVAC and plumbing etc.

 

Continuing with your thought, leave head room for the iron maiden.....go with 9ft min

Those mechanicals do not have to kill his 8' tall walls. HVAC guys know that, they can use different applications instead of giant duct work in certain areas. Bulkheads placed properly can hide all of the the mechanicals as well. Some people add bulkheads as a design feature, the old days of all your mechanicals hanging down in the way are over, for at least the quality builders.

[Pete H]

1 hour ago, Ceptorman said:

I told him that, thought you were paying attention 😀

Dude, I didn't call you out specifically.  LOL, It's all good, the world need humor right now, so suck it up. 

[Ceptorman]

9 hours ago, Pete H said:

Dude, I didn't call you out specifically.  LOL, It's all good, the world need humor right now, so suck it up. 

What's happening Pete? Is it time for this winter to go away? 

[Pete H]

2 hours ago, Ceptorman said:

What's happening Pete? Is it time for this winter to go away? 

LOL, yes.  Just trying to lighten things up.  Hows things going for you?  

[Bubo]

14 hours ago, Ceptorman said:

Those mechanicals do not have to kill his 8' tall walls. HVAC guys know that, they can use different applications instead of giant duct work in certain areas. Bulkheads placed properly can hide all of the the mechanicals as well. Some people add bulkheads as a design feature, the old days of all your mechanicals hanging down in the way are over, for at least the quality builders.

 

I'm sure there are ways to route them and hide them.

 

I have probably been in several hundred homes over the years

that I was considering purchasing, $200-500K range today's market,

 

The gross-incompetence, willful-negligence, low-grade materials, and disdain for the home owner was apparent in most of them. Most builders detest their customers, their work says it.

 

Contractors I have hired fought me on using better materials, low-quality is ingrained in their psyche. I finally insisted on my purchasing the materials and having them delivered, still they resisted. I even caught one trying to take my materials for exchange for low grade materials. I no longer allow any contractor to purchase materials, and end up doing most work myself, turns out to be "better than professional" since I'm not rushing to get to the bar or my bookie every day.

 

A builder told me he would not do any work in my IL County since the builders ran the zoning and the code was sub-standard in every respect, Large builders avoided His County since they held their feet to the fire instead of rubber stamp inspections, it also kept the hacks out because they couldn't get paid.

 

He only would build in one neighboring County where the Farmers controlled the County Board and zoning, and knew bull shit when they smelled it. Everything was one or two steps up from the code in my county, cost approx $2-3K per home.

 

vented for now .......

 

[Bubo]

17 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

Not needed if you use closed cell foam.

 

My sister's 1920s home has 4x8 roof trusses, pine as hard as oak

Our families 1960s home had 2x4s = 2x4 pine as hard as oak.....

1980s forward 2x4 = 1.5x3.5 not your grandfather's 2x4. low grade fast growth

 

2x6 good

2x8 better

 

1.5x3.5 = 5.25

2x4 = 8

1.5x 5.5 = 8.25

1.5x 7.5 = 11.25

 

 

1. Deflection

2. Noise damping

3. More strength after conduits, if horizontal runs

4. Foam = severe allergenic and other reactions for some

5. Load bearing walls can't be too strong.....

6. $100 sq ft granite counter tops are low on my priorities list...........

I would rather spend on the structure

[Ceptorman]

2 hours ago, Pete H said:

LOL, yes.  Just trying to lighten things up.  Hows things going for you?  

Going ok.....at least the power is on!

[Ceptorman]

1 hour ago, Bubo said:

 

I'm sure there are ways to route them and hide them.

 

I have probably been in several hundred homes over the years

that I was considering purchasing, $200-500K range today's market,

 

The gross-incompetence, willful-negligence, low-grade materials, and disdain for the home owner was apparent in most of them. Most builders detest their customers, their work says it.

 

Contractors I have hired fought me on using better materials, low-quality is ingrained in their psyche. I finally insisted on my purchasing the materials and having them delivered, still they resisted. I even caught one trying to take my materials for exchange for low grade materials. I no longer allow any contractor to purchase materials, and end up doing most work myself, turns out to be "better than professional" since I'm not rushing to get to the bar or my bookie every day.

 

A builder told me he would not do any work in my IL County since the builders ran the zoning and the code was sub-standard in every respect, Large builders avoided His County since they held their feet to the fire instead of rubber stamp inspections, it also kept the hacks out because they couldn't get paid.

 

He only would build in one neighboring County where the Farmers controlled the County Board and zoning, and knew bull shit when they smelled it. Everything was one or two steps up from the code in my county, cost approx $2-3K per home.

 

vented for now .......

 

I hear you, some guys chose profit over quality, but good contractors are still around, just have to find them. I am a masonry/concrete contractor, been in business since 94. The first 12 years, I was 90% brick veneering new homes. I have a brother that builds hi end homes, I did his first 200 houses, but his homes kept getting bigger (12k sq ft) and I decided to go another way. Now I primarily build outdoor rec areas.... kitchens, pergolas, fireplaces, decorative concrete. Almost all my work is from referrals. 

[Bubo]

1 hour ago, Ceptorman said:

I hear you, some guys chose profit over quality, but good contractors are still around, just have to find them. I am a masonry/concrete contractor, been in business since 94. The first 12 years, I was 90% brick veneering new homes. I have a brother that builds hi end homes, I did his first 200 houses, but his homes kept getting bigger (12k sq ft) and I decided to go another way. Now I primarily build outdoor rec areas.... kitchens, pergolas, fireplaces, decorative concrete. Almost all my work is from referrals. 

 

Definitely

Had a Plumber I used for years who was excellent. He loved using better materials...

Have an HVAC installer who is high quality

Had a great carpenter, passed away

- He was initially resistant on me purchasing materials, then flipped 100% and only worked with customers who would meet him at the store and took care of delivery or drop, he picked the materials with them.

- He was so resistant the first couple of times, then so in-to-it later I asked him what happened?

"After the second time, I added up the money I had tied up materials, and it was over $40K. With lots past due. Now I won't start the job until every screw is on site, and I demand payment on completion".

 

Just had a cement raising guy who is excellent, took a few months waiting my turn, paid him check in hand when the truck was packed.

So I try to be a good customer

[Pete H]

4 hours ago, Bubo said:

 

My sister's 1920s home has 4x8 roof trusses, pine as hard as oak

Our families 1960s home had 2x4s = 2x4 pine as hard as oak.....

1980s forward 2x4 = 1.5x3.5 not your grandfather's 2x4. low grade fast growth

 

2x6 good

2x8 better

 

1.5x3.5 = 5.25

2x4 = 8

1.5x 5.5 = 8.25

1.5x 7.5 = 11.25

 

 

1. Deflection

2. Noise damping

3. More strength after conduits, if horizontal runs

4. Foam = severe allergenic and other reactions for some

5. Load bearing walls can't be too strong.....

6. $100 sq ft granite counter tops are low on my priorities list...........

I would rather spend on the structure

If structure is what you're after, you should look into ICF's, Precast and SIPS panels as well as engineered floor joists and rafters.  Back when I started building (long time ago) everything I framed was douglas fir from Canfor, it was so much straighter and cleaner than any of the normal SPF that you could buy.  From a contractors perspective, you have to understand that the average person that builds or buys a home, won't listen to investing in components that will save them in the long run, and they are after bigger, not necessarily better.  You, are different than the majority of people.  

[Bubo]

40 minutes ago, Pete H said:

If structure is what you're after, you should look into ICF's, Precast and SIPS panels as well as engineered floor joists and rafters.  Back when I started building (long time ago) everything I framed was douglas fir from Canfor, it was so much straighter and cleaner than any of the normal SPF that you could buy.  From a contractors perspective, you have to understand that the average person that builds or buys a home, won't listen to investing in components that will save them in the long run, and they are after bigger, not necessarily better.  You, are different than the majority of people.  

 

Love pre-cast, temp is a bit of a challenge in Chicago area

If I were building 300 miles further south, I would definitely consider it.

Loved watching them go up in Denmark and Germany.

 

My cousin's close in neighborhood just out side DC was one of the money neighborhoods for years with lots of impressive newer Magazine quality homes, the original old money was more modest on 2-5 acre wooded sites in the 1940-60s. Lots of 3,500 sq ft tear-downs, with 12,000 going back in.

One day he was passing a completed, but not finished, structure and asked the contractor if he could take a look.....sure

Cousin asked the developer, everything is cement ? Yup...

Why ?

The owner was in a house fire years ago

and wanted a totally non-flammable home, everything.

 

[Ceptorman]

Here's a system I use anytime I pour a concrete footer for a basement or even some foundations, it's a permanent plastic form and also a drain, helps rid Radon also....https://buildblock.com/products/accessories/form-a-drain/

[Max2]

  You will likely be getting money well under 3%. Since this is your last home, I would consider splurging slightly in some areas. You might run some amortization schedules and see just what these extras will actually put you back over the course of the loan life.  Foam filled walls or at least cellulose. Dual fuel HVAC, if Natural gas is in your area.  Watch out about what part of the home faces south west and due west, this will be your biggest heat load when its 100+ in July and the best spot to have your garage pointed at with minimal windows there.   Definitely do insulated garage doors.  Make sure the HVAC system in the basement has adequate cooling and heating, this will make big a difference with the unit down there in the summer, even though it will be cooler given its in the basement. I would also consider one of the various roof insulation methods whether rigid or running reflective 1" foam.

 

Dont expect perfection in your build, and it is stressful, but you being single will make it a little easier   People always figure out what they would have done differently if building again, so consider things that you're not considering now in your layout.

[JJkizak]

2 hours ago, Ceptorman said:

Here's a system I use anytime I pour a concrete footer for a basement or even some foundations, it's a permanent plastic form and also a drain, helps rid Radon also....https://buildblock.com/products/accessories/form-a-drain/

 

I didn't see those small steel loops they install sticking out the top sides of the footer to hold the wall supports in place when they backfill.

JJK

[Ceptorman]

2 hours ago, JJkizak said:

 

I didn't see those small steel loops they install sticking out the top sides of the footer to hold the wall supports in place when they backfill.

JJK

I believe in most areas, it's not required for housing, but any reputable basement company will have some sort of anchor. I will cut a notch into the footer while it's wet (if I'm pouring concrete walls (which I will occasionally if it's small) and I'll stick out rebar, if it's a large block wall, it's best to drill holes into the footer than stick them in wet. 

The reason it's not required by code is there's nowhere the lower basement wall can kick in at the bottom, there's a concrete floor there. The weak point in a basement wall is the top. Sometimes builders will wait to backfill until the floor system is installed. Those basement walls should support backfilling on their own IMO.

[OO1]

On 2/18/2021 at 1:36 PM, Edgar said:

 just don't see justification for spending $6000 for an extra foot of basement depth.

--it's a lot cheaper to build a slab , and  a bigger garage instead of a basement -

 

[JJkizak]

2 hours ago, Ceptorman said:

I believe in most areas, it's not required for housing, but any reputable basement company will have some sort of anchor. I will cut a notch into the footer while it's wet (if I'm pouring concrete walls (which I will occasionally if it's small) and I'll stick out rebar, if it's a large block wall, it's best to drill holes into the footer than stick them in wet. 

The reason it's not required by code is there's nowhere the lower basement wall can kick in at the bottom, there's a concrete floor there. The weak point in a basement wall is the top. Sometimes builders will wait to backfill until the floor system is installed. Those basement walls should support backfilling on their own IMO.

 

The reason I brought that up is I saw the builder next door installing large triangle strap devices (about 8 foot high and 6 feet extended outward on the floor)) that hooked into those loops on the footer and they tightened them up like a come a long to put pressure on the inside wall all the way up to floor level. Then they back filled. This was during the cold weather.

JJK

[Ceptorman]

11 minutes ago, JJkizak said:

 

The reason I brought that up is I saw the builder next door installing large triangle strap devices (about 8 foot high and 6 feet extended outward on the floor)) that hooked into those loops on the footer and they tightened them up like a come a long to put pressure on the inside wall all the way up to floor level. Then they back filled. This was during the cold weather.

JJK

Is that some kind of post tension concrete process? I've heard of it, never witnessed it being stressed, think that would be interesting to see. 

[JJkizak]

2 hours ago, Ceptorman said:

Is that some kind of post tension concrete process? I've heard of it, never witnessed it being stressed, think that would be interesting to see. 

 

To be frank about it I didn't think they were really necessary either.

JJK