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Cf 2 shrill, upgrades?


Lbk

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Do you have tone controls enabled on the Marantz? Any bump in the treble at the moment?  Have you tried turning the treble down and test? Just mentioning things to try before any modding process. 

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1 hour ago, Shiva said:

Do you have tone controls enabled on the Marantz? Any bump in the treble at the moment?  Have you tried turning the treble down and test? Just mentioning things to try before any modding process. 

That is an interesting idea! It has digital tone controls and I forgot I have treble  bumped up s little from running the chorus's. I will play with it tomorrow. 

 

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Definitely get the electrolytics out of there.  When they go bad, high ESR, the crossover starts pushing too much mid/high info through the woofers.  That can really make a mess of things when all 3 drivers are trying to reproduce the same frequencies.
The electrolytics are in the shunt and LCR positions, so just about any film cap should be a huge improvement.  The series-pass caps in the tweeter section are much more critical for quality.

 

I'm taking the easy way out and letting a Sony receiver auto-calibrate my speakers (after xover rebuild).  The amp is definitely the weak link in the chain, but convenient and toddler-proof.

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14 hours ago, Dave A said:

This is the only thing I disagreed with Bob on. Some time back I got a set of KP-456's stock from Klipsch. The bass bin had a 50uf poly cap in there and not an electrolytic. The current pro crossovers from Klipsch also have 50uf mylar caps and not electrolytics. Pro Klipsch is made to a higher standard in my opinion. 

 

  So I had a set of Chorus I's a while back and decided to use a 68uf Audyn cap end see how it sounded. There was a clear improvement over that dinky little electrolytic. I also had a Crites KPT-456 crossover with that dinky electrolytic in there. I built more based on his crossover but used the Dayton 50uf poly and it sounded better. Yes it is a good economy choice to use the electrolytic. It is not the better choice for sound quality.  Also I know poly's are bigger but I have made it work without any problem every time. I had that "woofer circuit is basically a garbage can and does not need the poly caps" conversation with Bob and decided that this time he was not right. Keep in mind too that those Sonicaps he sells top out at 35uf on the Sonicap site and sell for $76.58 each. one 33uf and one 35uf would give you the 68uf required and cost appx $300 just for the 68uf equivalent to do a pair with Sonicaps. There is an economic reason to use cheaper caps if you insist on using sonicaps. Recapping a Chorus I with all Sonicaps would run over $400 just for the caps if you stayed just with them.

 

  I am not telling you what to do but what I have done to make me  happy and my reasoning and will leave it at that with no further comment about this here.

 

i dont disagree with you on using poly caps in the "woofer dump" section, just saying what crites uses in all his consumer crossovers & how he explained that you dont really hear too much from that section as its just a "garbage can".  personally i dont know which is better as that kind of stuff is beyond my pay grade... but it makes sense klipsch uses poly in the PRO speakers since they see a lot more power & abuse so im sure theres a reason/benefit to using them. 

 

i may try a poly cap in place of electrolytic on the next ones i do in some forte2 just to see if i can tell a difference.  what improvements did you notice using polys in that area? 

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15 hours ago, Lbk said:

Going to pull xovers in the morning, hopefully I will have some sonic caps I can use. Is it a bad idea to replace only the caps in tweeter/horn pathway and any electroytic's, bass is fine. 

 

Knew erse made electronic components didn't know they caps, may have to check into those.

 

Yes back when i was first considering caps for my chorus 2 that sounded like a towel was covering the fronts i talked to bob about the sonicaps he sells vs other brands since i was on a tight budget, i used dayton & solen from parts express as examples & while he didnt really say anything bad about them he did say they measured higher on ESR than the sonicaps when he tested them, but was very quick to mention the ERSE caps & said they measure almost as good as sonicaps & sound very good & he recommends them to customers on a budget.

 

i checked out their site & they are cheaper price than daytons by quite a bit & ship fast via first class mail on smaller orders for just a few dollars.  i got chorus2 & forte 2 poly caps with 6% electrolytic caps for just over $20 with shipping! & they made a huge difference in the chorus2 & sound excellent.  & as ive said numerous times before,  i'd bet a dollar that 99.9% of people cant tell the difference between dayton 1%, solen, erse, vs sonicaps in the majority of speakers/systems. also the 250v erse caps are much smaller than the sonicaps crites uses, they fit on the small boards many klipsch speakers of this era use with little to no manipulation needed.  

 

heres a link to erse if you havent checked them out yet.. best value in budget poly caps out there IMO!   

 

https://www.erseaudio.com/Products/PulseX250v

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@Lbk do you have a treble tone control? If so would try attenuating some. The shrill is likely partly due to the newness of you versus the horn.

Anyway, hope you can lose the shrill but thinking maybe just damping the horn.

Will be surprised if other caps cure the problem.

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15 hours ago, Shiva said:

Do you have tone controls enabled on the Marantz? Any bump in the treble at the moment?  Have you tried turning the treble down and test? Just mentioning things to try before any modding process. 

Would also try a different amp on them. Not rock and roll speakers some say. Excel on classical, jazz, blues they say online.

Like mine for rock also.

Good solid electronics make a difference for my CF1s, along with 100+ watts per channel.

 

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8 hours ago, billybob said:

Would also try a different amp on them. Not rock and roll speakers some say. Excel on classical, jazz, blues they say online.

Like mine for rock also.

Good solid electronics make a difference for my CF1s, along with 100+ watts per channel.

 

I have tried my Carver and hafler amps and they sound different but harness is still there. When I listen to rock with strong electric guitars it's really noticeable. Other music without electric guitars they sound great with little to no harshness, I listen to mostly classic rock.

 

Didn't get much done on these today. It was nice out so I worked outside building frames for sound panels and diffusers. I am going pull the horns and xovers out tonight and rope caulk the horns before I go to bed. Busy week so may not get as much done on them as I would like this week, thanks for all the help so far.

 

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