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Ho to fix a crushed corner of a speaker - mdf


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I picked up some JBL L100 century speakers last night and a few corners are slightly damaged.  Not anything too deep or extensive, but they need to be filled and colored or maybe small pieces of veneer added.  

 

Anyone  have experience with fixing corners? 

 

What do you use?  Wood filler?  Bondo? 

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14 minutes ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

I picked up some JBL L100 century speakers last night and a few corners are slightly damaged.  Not anything too deep or extensive, but they need to be filled and colored or maybe small pieces of veneer added.  

 

Anyone  have experience with fixing corners? 

 

What do you use?  Wood filler?  Bondo? 

I prefer bondo but pics would help. Bondo should be easier to work with.

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2 hours ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

Here it is.,  The cabinets should be able to be sanded and refinished.  These corners are the ones that bother me. 

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After looking at pics I did some quick research, seems wood putty has advanced since I last use it. The wood puttys available now get very hard when compared to bondo. If you do some research there are slightly different methods  and products to choose from. One thing you do want to do is sand the bad spots and clean them out for good adhesion. I like to you to a compressor and blow out all dirt and dust.

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1 hour ago, Lbk said:

After looking at pics I did some quick research, seems wood putty has advanced since I last use it. The wood puttys available now get very hard when compared to bondo. If you do some research there are slightly different methods  and products to choose from. One thing you do want to do is sand the bad spots and clean them out for good adhesion. I like to you to a compressor and blow out all dirt and dust.

I found this:  Wood filler differs from wood putty in that the filler usually consists of sawdust or wood fibers suspended in a binder, while putty is usually a plastic such as epoxy, fiberglass or polyurethane. Moreover, unlike filler, putty doesn't harden.

 

So do I use wood filler or putty? 

 

 

Are we talking about something like this wood filler and then stain it using a q-tip?

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Color-Changing-5-5-oz-Natural-Wood-Filler/1000567879?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-pnt-_-google-_-lia-_-221-_-wallrepair-_-1000567879-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5a_Cgfqz7wIVuSCtBh2lZQP4EAQYASABEgIyovD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

 

If I use wood putty, can I stain it? 


 

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Chris, the Bondo Wood Filler is an epoxy product that dries hard, comes in two parts. Not sure how small a kit you can buy.

 

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Bondo-Wood-Filler/?N=5002385+3293241533&rt=rud

 

I would also put in a small screw that would sit below the surface, to provide an extra anchor in the wood. See attached drawing...

 

Bruce

20210316_143156.jpg

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1 hour ago, Marvel said:

Chris, the Bondo Wood Filler is an epoxy product that dries hard, comes in two parts. Not sure how small a kit you can buy.

 

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Bondo-Wood-Filler/?N=5002385+3293241533&rt=rud

 

I would also put in a small screw that would sit below the surface, to provide an extra anchor in the wood. See attached drawing...

 

Bruce

20210316_143156.jpg

Screw is an interesting idea. Stain match is difficult, usually you have to mix stain in with the product before applying. Mini wax has a 2 part that is suppose to except stain.

 

The mini wax product above may work but it doesn't state if it gets hard. I would want a product that gets hard for durability. 

 

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4 hours ago, Marvel said:

Chris, the Bondo Wood Filler is an epoxy product that dries hard, comes in two parts. Not sure how small a kit you can buy.

 

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Bondo-Wood-Filler/?N=5002385+3293241533&rt=rud

 

I would also put in a small screw that would sit below the surface, to provide an extra anchor in the wood. See attached drawing...

 

Bruce

20210316_143156.jpg

Good call Bruce and I was about to suggest that until I saw your post. The only thing I would add is drill a hole for the screw small enough to get a good bite on the threads  but not so small it puts to much pressure on the fake wood causing it to split.

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2 hours ago, Marvel said:

Chris, the Bondo Wood Filler is an epoxy product that dries hard, comes in two parts. Not sure how small a kit you can buy.

 

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Bondo-Wood-Filler/?N=5002385+3293241533&rt=rud

 

I would also put in a small screw that would sit below the surface, to provide an extra anchor in the wood. See attached drawing...

 

Bruce

20210316_143156.jpg

 

That looks good for a bigger amount of damage to give it something to hold on to.  I put a pen in the pictures for scale.  The damage is ugly, but very minor.  It is only in two spots, one on each speaker.  Someone probably rolled them when picking up. 

 

Here is some two part minwax that might work.

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-High-Performance-Wood-Filler-12-oz-Natural-Wood-Filler/999916297

 

 

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Unless a carpenter / cabinet maker provides a definite answer, perhaps you could practice on some cheap wood stock and report results for all of us with a ding or two in our beloved cabinets?

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52 minutes ago, No.4 said:

I’m not sure how important it is for these to look perfect, but...would you consider new veneer? It’s easier than most people think, and they will look brand new.

 

These have a nice thick veneer and are actually in good shape.  I just need to lightly sand and refinish. 

 

These speakers have gotten valuable and I want to keep them original.  I may even buy the crazy expensive blue or orange egg crate grills. 

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