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Gaskets between horn and driver


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I have built my own clones of k-401 horns with wood.
To put my drivers on the horns, i had to use adapters.

The gaskets between horns and drivers are badly self made.

 

Is it important to have very good gaskets, does it change the sound if the are not right done ?

 

Pictures ... so you can see what i have done . the gaskets are white on the picture. It is a foam gasket.
 

IMG_20201129_155334.jpg

IMG_20201129_155330.jpg

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plumbing gasket is ideal  --commercial/industrial  large pipes ,fire hydrants etc use this type of gasket material for a seal  ,  it comes in sheets or rolls ---usually Orange -all you need is to buy a section and make your own round gaskets --

 

Rubber Sheets Red, 6x6-Inch by 1/16, (3 Sheet Pack), Plumbing, Gaskets DIY  Material, Supports, Leveling, Sealing, Bumpers, Protection, Abrasion,  Flooring - - Amazon.com

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SpeedLimit, your homemade gaskets look very good optically but I would use rubber material and not foam. Foam is probably much too soft against the force of tightening the thread. And the driver really needs to be tightened. With foam you would quickly make metal to metal contact. Or is it a rubber-like very stable foam?

 

I cut new gaskets for my K400 horn from a rubber pad.

48ECE7FE-C36F-4229-B9BF-59B91FA39914.thumb.png.e418f6db1b1e2b542f764bea1ba7a451.png

 

The 44 year old ones were crumbled, red in the picture. It is only an interim solution, new gaskets from Michael Crites are on the way but only because I ordered other items anyway. Otherwise I would stay with the DIY solution the way it sounds. I cut them not very nicely but the best I could. At least I did it in a way that nothing of the rubber interferes with the opening of the driver or horn throat and everything is effectively sealed because the tightness is very important for the radiation of the lower frequencies. And perhaps?…also regarding to avoid some sharpness of the sound?

Whether the inner ring is laser sharp circular or not should not matter regarding the wavelengths up to 6000Hz max.(just under 6 cm) which is a much longer wavelength than the rubber gasket area…resp. the thickness of the pressed rubber gasket.
Using the old sealing ring I turned the driver to full stop with no flexible dosage of force.. With the new sealing ring I have almost half a turn to put it firmly but gently hand-tight.

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BTW, somewhere I read that some users also want to seal the mouth of the horn to the baffle. I think that this is really not necessary. Since it would be more important to me that the horn is simply well screwed so that it does not vibrate. At the mouth opening of the horn there is no more pressure difference to the enviroment. The pressure difference only exists at the throat of the horn, hence the importance of the sealing ring.

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SpeedLimit, please see the photos below.

My original sealing rings are compressed and no longer have the shape as fresh elastic rubber. When I get the new gaskets from M. Crites next week, I can gladly measure again. The measurements of inner and outer diameter on the sheet are taken from the old gasket in red colour..

The outer diameter should still be correct because the rubber does not expand further on the throat of the horn.

My new gaskets are of course thicker than the old used up and compressed ones, the thickness seems perfectly fine as it feels when tightening. Maybe the new original ones are a tiny bit thinner.  We will see.

 

Perhaps, if you like to start right now, take 0.3 mm more or so to cut the inner diameter because, a new rubber could be compressed into the sound beam when too narrow at the beam? With a strong LED light you can see when looking into the horn from the mouth side if something rubber is in the way or not.3B510736-2B6E-451F-8601-BD6A6D434590.thumb.jpeg.62fd067460a142af3861668e72969fd5.jpegDEDE3FA5-CD47-4E4C-B0C6-425F93C5822A.thumb.jpeg.cec0514a5f353005c54696d0cf4ea8f6.jpegBDD8DD1A-607C-4183-8F7A-1C9F9A09230D.thumb.jpeg.8a54cf1ca5f469bd315ca394fc265666.jpegB10933F0-ACDD-41AA-BA4F-082E8A6948BD.thumb.jpeg.e6c888174144c898f2fcb55555fcde7b.jpeg9B0DE046-3AF3-4197-A5BD-3DF6949AEBE0.thumb.jpeg.f205c32a55826112130f917deb2ba6b9.jpeg

 

This is the rubber pad I purchased in a DIY market to cut the gaskets from.77B0E443-547E-4B93-9F19-ED66C6014767.thumb.jpeg.3907641d64375dc1a5149bfea99bda69.jpeg

 

 

 

 

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Oh it's really very friendly from you KT88.

Thank you, thank you, I will try to do better with rubber than with the foam (the foam i used is pretty dense despite everything but perhaps not so good as rubber)

 

Thank you to have told me the diameters and thje thickness

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no gasket betwen the adapter and the horn .. my horn is in wood, i think it is not necessary to put a gasket between these 2 parts.

 

i will unscrew the driver from the adapter during this week because i have to open the rear of the upper cabinet .. 

IMG_20210221_122052.jpg

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Ok, no gasket betwen the adapter and the horn, but make sure it is really airtight. A thin gasket (enough due to the bigger surface) would give me peace of mind.

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On 6/13/2021 at 4:09 PM, SpeedLimit said:

I have forgotten to say that i have put 2 Eminence es2ba adapters between my atlas sound pd-5vh drivers and my wooden built k-401 horns clones.

 

 

Eminence_es2ba.jpg

 

New gaskets from Michael Crites.

1,6 mm thick

1,805 cm ID
783249EB-82B2-43BE-A613-646A729E09AF.thumb.jpeg.707f64df6dddeeced5b65f0257fe6194.jpeg6203C63E-45A1-42BC-8694-808D6614B970.thumb.jpeg.c67562c7ab9e033688f4b4b2ceece08c.jpeg

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At this price , i would directly buy .. but in Europe, no such good prices and i have just 2 gaskets to cut ..

 

In France, there is a trademark Boehm that is very good quality but expensive (over 130-140 dollars to have just 2 rings and the hammer

 

 

 

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Cutting a nice neat gasket to fit is not easy. What is easy however and will work just fine is an O-Ring when you have a smaller flat mating surface such as the one on your horn appears to be.

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