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Klipsch MCM Advice


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4 hours ago, AlmostGod said:

 

I really like the original birch look! But will use my money on getting them working. Going to see if i can save the aluminum strips, since taking them off is going to be difficult since a lot of the screws have been ruined already. Were the aluminum strips standard? Or do they also came without the strips? 

 

Would LOVE an original MMTM or MTM as tweeter, hoping I can get the tweeters from DaveA, but thinking shipping and customs is going to make it very, very expensive..

The MTMM sounded good on my set  and if you can find some serve you well. My problem has been finding one piece of an already scarce set has never been easy nor guaranteed. Forum members are a good place to start your search with.

@bhendrix might have a line on sources.

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16 hours ago, AlmostGod said:

Edit: 

Mine are think painted black, can I restore them or is this very difficult for a newbie to do?

 

16 hours ago, Gnote said:

I'm getting ready to do a pair of MWM bins with Duratex , I believe many here have used it with good results . 

Everyone claims that it is very easy to apply with a roller .

15 hours ago, AlmostGod said:

Can I just use duratex over it? I love the birch look but that's a LOT of work. And I'm not even sure how long I can stay in this big apartment haha. 

 

Let's get everything working first. After that I can think about the looks!

Sorry I answered your Question , Won't happen again !

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8 hours ago, AlmostGod said:

Or do they also came without the strips?

 

Mine (as seen in an earlier post) came without the aluminum strips, as they were for a theater install.  No handles or aluminum and a round over on the edges. Makes them look nice, but moving them is a lot harder.

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@Dave A and @Marvel Sorry my post made you react with the sad Emoji . I respect both of your opinions and after rereading I can see why you would frown upon someone saying they won't help . Especially someone who has received a lot of help from this forum. I was a little perturbed by making a suggestion to a question and instead of thanks or no reply , I felt like the OP insinuated I was jumping the gun to cosmetics instead of performance. I only tried to give some perspective on a question he asked .

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7 hours ago, Gnote said:

 

Sorry I answered your Question , Won't happen again !

I think Gnote was simply pointing out that the OP was asking a number of questions about finish, Duratex options, etc. which he responded to, and the OP shifted from finish to internals. 

 

I took Gnotes post just a little bit of frustration that if someone, anyone, asks a question you are going to get good solid responses here, and people are going to take the time to give good, solid advice based on experience. If someone takes the time to answer a question, most people respond  and take the time to acknowledge the information. Things change for everyone and there is certainly nothing wrong in a shift in priorities to get them playing before worrying about how they look. Gnote is bringing up a good point, however, and it's happened numerous times in the past, if it appears someone who is asking a question isn't listening to responses (whether they agree with them or not), people are going to quit answering. A simple, "thank you for that information, it's great to know when it comes time to get to that point."

 

The OP has asked about "rat fur" and answered by several people, I'm not even sure if they have carpet/rat fur covering at this point. He has asked about standard trim, factory configurations 2 or 3 times, all answered. 

 

What I see is a very, very enthusiastic new owner MCM system, or part thereof, who is trying to get the information to do what he wants to do and from the questions he is asking it looks like he needs some help on prioritization maybe?

 

I suggested he post photos of the labels, so all of you experts could tell him exactly what trim he has (B, T or G, it's probably T). Regardless of what the label says, it could have had custom options. 

 

Photos of the trim would help you guys answer a lot of questions on that. Maybe the photos were in the original ad he was referring to. 

 

Now that he is on getting them to work right has he asked what drivers should be in there? How to properly test them? Does the fact they emit sound enough? What is the crossover situation like? He has none right? What's he going to need to make this thing work and sound right. He is on a budget, like most of us are, and he is having to make choices, what's it going to cost him in amplification, crossovers to make this thing work right? I'm not sure if he has asked that, me may, or may not, know that is a pretty critical question at this point if you are having to make decisions on whether to coat them now in duratex, vs. getting them to play.

 

@AlmostGod attached is one of the official brochure/spec sheets for the MCM 1900, it lists the options. In addition, this Forum has a powerful search function, it is a great resource. Put in MCM 1900 and you will see there are numerous threads discussing the system that will help you obtain the general knowledge about your speakers you are sincerely trying to seek. I think there were many people who were sitting where you were right now who ended up very, very happy with the final result with the help, knowledge and assistance from the great people on this forum. I admire that you jumped into this feet first, now that you have jumped you may want to find out how deep in you are.

MCM-1900.pdf

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6 minutes ago, Gnote said:

@Dave A and @Marvel Sorry my post made you react with the sad Emoji . I respect both of your opinions and after rereading I can see why you would frown upon someone saying they won't help . Especially someone who has received a lot of help from this forum. I was a little perturbed by making a suggestion to a question and instead of thanks or no reply , I felt like the OP insinuated I was jumping the gun to cosmetics instead of performance. I only tried to give some perspective on a question he asked .

Out posts crossed, as you can see from up above, I can easily see your point of view. It speaks volumes that you went to the trouble to explain your response. There used to be people on this Forum that would have responded to the first post with "did you do a search?" I never really cared for that, much prefered "I posted about a XXXXX project here (with a link to thread" that may be helpful. 

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3 hours ago, Gnote said:

@Dave A and @Marvel Sorry my post made you react with the sad Emoji . I respect both of your opinions and after rereading I can see why you would frown upon someone saying they won't help . Especially someone who has received a lot of help from this forum. I was a little perturbed by making a suggestion to a question and instead of thanks or no reply , I felt like the OP insinuated I was jumping the gun to cosmetics instead of performance. I only tried to give some perspective on a question he asked .

There has been a fair amount of back and forth in PM's on this which you were not privy to and which led to his comment in question. I know he was not insinuating that to you but responding to a comment made to him in PM's. Everything is good and thanks for your thoughtful comment. .

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Hi everyone,


I'd like to apologize if my reactions have made me look ungrateful for all the time and thought that was put in your answers. I'm simply very enthousiastic and in way over my head.

I've asked a bunch of questions regarding drivers, crossovers and appearance, I'm doing this step by step and if I can start with small cosmetic stuff which won't break the bank I'll happily do that. But my main priority is getting them working. I have a friend who's making a crossover for me so I got that covered, I'm in process of cleaning all the cabinets and "testing" the drivers (I just connect speaker wire to them to see if they work). Once the crossover is done I can start the actual testing. 


And I'm in the market for a HF driver with horn so I was asking questions about that as well.

 

I sincerely apologize if I came across as ungrateful, I'm listening to all the advice and I'm using as much of the info given to be as possible.

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44 minutes ago, mark1101 said:

What is the crossover frequency on the 1900 system from the MWM woofer cabinets to the mid-bass or midrange horns?

I think this is what you are looking for

CROSSOVER: For optimum performance and flexibility, the use of active (low-level) filter de\ices and multiple power amplifiers is recommended, Crossover characteristics should include roll off rates of 18 dB or more per octave at the low frequency shoulder and low distortion with adequate "head room," Note that the MTM and MMTM tWeeters include a built- in passive 6 kHz crossover network and may be driven in parallel with the MSM in bi-amped (three-way) or triamped (four-way) systems, Passive crossover networks of the Type M series are designed for use only with KLIPSCH three-way or four-way MCM systems,

Crossover points:      3-way:       400 Hz       6 kHz

                                      4-way:       350 Hz       1 kHz      : 6 kHz

 

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5 hours ago, mark1101 said:

What is the crossover frequency on the 1900 system from the MWM woofer cabinets to the mid-bass or midrange horns?

It is in the spec sheet I attached up above, I was intrigued by the different points in the 3 way vs. 4 way systems, 350 vs. 400, etc. I know you have done extensive trial and error testing on 3 vs 4 way pro Jubilee set ups and ended up with being happiest with the 4 way you ended up with.

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8 hours ago, AlmostGod said:

Hi everyone,


I'd like to apologize if my reactions have made me look ungrateful for all the time and thought that was put in your answers. I'm simply very enthousiastic and in way over my head.

I've asked a bunch of questions regarding drivers, crossovers and appearance, I'm doing this step by step and if I can start with small cosmetic stuff which won't break the bank I'll happily do that. But my main priority is getting them working. I have a friend who's making a crossover for me so I got that covered, I'm in process of cleaning all the cabinets and "testing" the drivers (I just connect speaker wire to them to see if they work). Once the crossover is done I can start the actual testing. 


And I'm in the market for a HF driver with horn so I was asking questions about that as well.

 

I sincerely apologize if I came across as ungrateful, I'm listening to all the advice and I'm using as much of the info given to be as possible.

As Bruce @Marvel said, it's all good, you asked for a drink from the knowledge fountain and they hit you with a fire hose, one of the good things about this Forum. Plus you got individual private,  focused help. Sometimes it's just overwhelming and hard to keep up.

 

Nice to see people posting examples of what you can end up with.

 

Also, like with all things audio, there are many paths that you can take on this, and it's up to you to decide what is best for your situation/budget.

 

Excited for you on your project. 

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Several months ago I removed the XII mid-bass modules and the TAD drivers on the 402 horns.   I replaced them with a pair of Celestion AXI 2050s.  Basically simplified the system by removing the mid-bass module and crossing much lower with the 402s..........and going from a 4 way to a 3 way.  It could be a 2-way easily, but I have not done that at this point.

 

I still have subs so really it's a 4-way right now.......was a 5-way with the mid-bass modules.  Enjoyed that for several years but got a little tired of the complexity, so many amplifiers.  When it came time to make adjustments it was the better part of a day.  I have retained all the equipment so I could put it back at anytime. 

 

I was just wondering what the crossover was from the original MCM setup.

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On 7/10/2021 at 9:31 PM, dwilawyer said:

As Bruce @Marvel said, it's all good, you asked for a drink from the knowledge fountain and they hit you with a fire hose, one of the good things about this Forum. Plus you got individual private,  focused help. Sometimes it's just overwhelming and hard to keep up.

 

Nice to see people posting examples of what you can end up with.

 

Also, like with all things audio, there are many paths that you can take on this, and it's up to you to decide what is best for your situation/budget.

 

Excited for you on your project. 

 

I'm excited too! Want to work on it tomorrow and Tuesday, will make some before and after pics of the cleaning and take pics of the drivers and such.

Thanks!

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11 hours ago, mark1101 said:

Several months ago I removed the XII mid-bass modules and the TAD drivers on the 402 horns.   I replaced them with a pair of Celestion AXI 2050s.  Basically simplified the system by removing the mid-bass module and crossing much lower with the 402s..........and going from a 4 way to a 3 way.  It could be a 2-way easily, but I have not done that at this point.

 

I still have subs so really it's a 4-way right now.......was a 5-way with the mid-bass modules.  Enjoyed that for several years but got a little tired of the complexity, so many amplifiers.  When it came time to make adjustments it was the better part of a day.  I have retained all the equipment so I could put it back at anytime. 

 

I was just wondering what the crossover was from the original MCM setup.

Never thought I would see the day you would be working down.

 

I know you saw this but here is the section of the spec sheet on crossovers:

 

image.thumb.png.f1ad0c52ad0900f9bc6b13d729bcf53d.png

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Time marches on Travis and you reference 30+ year old technology. I am thinking those Celestion drivers and the 402's would be superb and better than the old school 3 and 4 ways. I know that my Super MWM's beat out the old 3 way MCM-1900 stack I had. Honestly though once you get to this level they are all high end sound if running and set up right. Once you hear them you can never get them out of your mind.

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The MWM cabinets would normaly have K-43 woofers in them. They have great upper bass performance.

 

K-33s would give you a little lower bass output and perhaps better for a home environment. I still have k-43 woofers in mine and they sound great.

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