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AlmostGod

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I believe my set is covered in a layer of fiberglass, is this something anyone has heard of before?

Thinking it's going to be difficult if possible to remove the pain without destroying the fiber glass... Best to leave it or paint over it at most?

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My 4 MWM-S Cabinets are fiberglass with the aluminum edge banding.  Hard to find the singles like this any longer.

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On 7/12/2021 at 2:57 PM, mark1101 said:

My 4 MWM-S Cabinets are fiberglass with the aluminum edge banding.  Hard to find the singles like this any longer.

 

Yeah I have those as well, my corners also look different, thinking they're not aluminum, but something more rigid?

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On 7/12/2021 at 7:20 AM, AlmostGod said:

I believe my set is covered in a layer of fiberglass, is this something anyone has heard of before?

Thinking it's going to be difficult if possible to remove the pain without destroying the fiber glass... Best to leave it or paint over it at most?

LEAVE IT! besides being really hard to damage they will help kill any resonance. Not as pretty as birch veneer but I would prefer the fiberglass.

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44 minutes ago, Dave A said:

LEAVE IT! besides being really hard to damage they will help kill any resonance. Not as pretty as birch veneer but I would prefer the fiberglass.

Yes the fiberglass is good and very tough.

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On 7/12/2021 at 8:57 AM, mark1101 said:

My 4 MWM-S Cabinets are fiberglass with the aluminum edge banding.  Hard to find the singles like this any longer.

This is why Bandsaws were invented. Make your own. Lots of MWM Double Bins around for pennies on the dollar.

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5 hours ago, AlmostGod said:

 

Yeah I have those as well, my corners also look different, thinking they're not aluminum, but something more rigid?

 

The corner pieces on the Pro Heresy with aluminum trim are cast pieces. I've not seen the MCM cabs with aluminum up close.

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Hi everyone, does it matter how I connect those four drivers to the horn? I saw two of them were connected parallel. Does it matter which ones?

 

Also, why are two of them connected parralel 

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6 hours ago, AlmostGod said:

Hi everyone, does it matter how I connect those four drivers to the horn? I saw two of them were connected parallel. Does it matter which ones?

 

Also, why are two of them connected parralel 

As a general rule of thumb you take pictures of the original wiring before you take them apart and do one set at a time so you always have a reference to look back to. I do both with crossovers and it saves grief. https://wgsusa.com/how-properly-wire-4x12-speaker-cabinethttps://wgsusa.com/how-properly-wire-4x12-speaker-cabinet

might help you out.

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On 7/10/2021 at 2:52 PM, kg4guy said:

IMG_2976.jpg

what's the speaker in the middle ?

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It's a Speakerlab bass bin with Klipschorn HF section with AK3 networks I built a back around them like the TSCM so they wouldn't be dependent on walls they sound amazing > 

IMG_0085.JPG

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On 7/16/2021 at 9:42 AM, AlmostGod said:

Hi everyone, does it matter how I connect those four drivers to the horn? I saw two of them were connected parallel. Does it matter which ones?

 

Also, why are two of them connected parralel 

 

If the crossover is expecting a 16 ohm driver to be connected, you can connect four 16 ohm drivers together to provide a 16 ohm load. Two 16 ohm drivers in parallel gives an 8 ohm load... putting  another parallel pair in series will get you back to a 16 ohm load. This way the crossover point stays the same but you have higher output.

 

And it doesn't matter really matter which ones, as long as the end result works out. Just make sure the polarity is correct so the diaphragms all move the same direction with an applied voltage/signal.

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