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I believe my set is covered in a layer of fiberglass, is this something anyone has heard of before?

Thinking it's going to be difficult if possible to remove the pain without destroying the fiber glass... Best to leave it or paint over it at most?

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On 7/12/2021 at 2:57 PM, mark1101 said:

My 4 MWM-S Cabinets are fiberglass with the aluminum edge banding.  Hard to find the singles like this any longer.

 

Yeah I have those as well, my corners also look different, thinking they're not aluminum, but something more rigid?

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On 7/12/2021 at 7:20 AM, AlmostGod said:

I believe my set is covered in a layer of fiberglass, is this something anyone has heard of before?

Thinking it's going to be difficult if possible to remove the pain without destroying the fiber glass... Best to leave it or paint over it at most?

LEAVE IT! besides being really hard to damage they will help kill any resonance. Not as pretty as birch veneer but I would prefer the fiberglass.

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44 minutes ago, Dave A said:

LEAVE IT! besides being really hard to damage they will help kill any resonance. Not as pretty as birch veneer but I would prefer the fiberglass.

Yes the fiberglass is good and very tough.

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On 7/12/2021 at 8:57 AM, mark1101 said:

My 4 MWM-S Cabinets are fiberglass with the aluminum edge banding.  Hard to find the singles like this any longer.

This is why Bandsaws were invented. Make your own. Lots of MWM Double Bins around for pennies on the dollar.

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5 hours ago, AlmostGod said:

 

Yeah I have those as well, my corners also look different, thinking they're not aluminum, but something more rigid?

 

The corner pieces on the Pro Heresy with aluminum trim are cast pieces. I've not seen the MCM cabs with aluminum up close.

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6 hours ago, AlmostGod said:

Hi everyone, does it matter how I connect those four drivers to the horn? I saw two of them were connected parallel. Does it matter which ones?

 

Also, why are two of them connected parralel 

As a general rule of thumb you take pictures of the original wiring before you take them apart and do one set at a time so you always have a reference to look back to. I do both with crossovers and it saves grief. https://wgsusa.com/how-properly-wire-4x12-speaker-cabinethttps://wgsusa.com/how-properly-wire-4x12-speaker-cabinet

might help you out.

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On 7/16/2021 at 9:42 AM, AlmostGod said:

Hi everyone, does it matter how I connect those four drivers to the horn? I saw two of them were connected parallel. Does it matter which ones?

 

Also, why are two of them connected parralel 

 

If the crossover is expecting a 16 ohm driver to be connected, you can connect four 16 ohm drivers together to provide a 16 ohm load. Two 16 ohm drivers in parallel gives an 8 ohm load... putting  another parallel pair in series will get you back to a 16 ohm load. This way the crossover point stays the same but you have higher output.

 

And it doesn't matter really matter which ones, as long as the end result works out. Just make sure the polarity is correct so the diaphragms all move the same direction with an applied voltage/signal.

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1 hour ago, AlmostGod said:

I'm having a hard time thoroughly cleaning that fiberglass, dirt stays in there, I'd really love to pressure wash them but I'm not going to take them down 2 floors to clean. Anyone got any tips?

 

Acetone has 1/3 the viscosity of water at room temperature, therefore the Reynolds numbers for similar impingement velocities are 3x higher than water.  Open all the windows first, then use a respirator to avoid breathing acetone vapors.  (It's the Reynolds numbers attained on the surfaces you're cleaning which do the cleaning action...and acetone is used a lot in fiberglass work to clean stray resin off working surfaces when laying up.)

 

You can also use compressed air for everything that doesn't require wetting action to clean.  I'd use compressed air first to knock off anything that's not adhered to the fiberglass surfaces, then acetone for the remainder.

 

Chris

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3 hours ago, Chris A said:

 

Acetone has 1/3 the viscosity of water at room temperature, therefore the Reynolds numbers for similar impingement velocities are 3x higher than water.  Open all the windows first, then use a respirator to avoid breathing acetone vapors.  (It's the Reynolds numbers attained on the surfaces you're cleaning which do the cleaning action...and acetone is used a lot in fiberglass work to clean stray resin off working surfaces when laying up.)

 

You can also use compressed air for everything that doesn't require wetting action to clean.  I'd use compressed air first to knock off anything that's not adhered to the fiberglass surfaces, then acetone for the remainder.

 

Chris

That will work and take them down to bare fiberglass. repainting is easy but you are going to regret not taking care of cosmetics before sitting them up two flights of steps. Is there some reason you can't just buff with scotchbrite pads and paint over what is there?

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14 hours ago, Dave A said:

That will work and take them down to bare fiberglass. repainting is easy but you are going to regret not taking care of cosmetics before sitting them up two flights of steps. Is there some reason you can't just buff with scotchbrite pads and paint over what is there?

They are already upstairs. I have an appartement and I'm not allowed to keep them in the public places. I'll use acetone on them I think! 

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25 minutes ago, AlmostGod said:

They are already upstairs. I have an appartement and I'm not allowed to keep them in the public places. I'll use acetone on them I think! 

Acetone + room + vapors = boom. 

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