Karan Posted June 28, 2024 Share Posted June 28, 2024 Hello, thanks for this lovely hack. It definitely works. I did come across a small issue. When I turn off soundbar (48), the subwoofer and the surround 3 speakers remain on and will not go in standby. It's as if they are still paired to the soundbar even though it is off. what could I have done wrong? Has anyone else faced this issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProATC Posted July 10, 2024 Share Posted July 10, 2024 Adding to the list of happy DIYers, the 48 is back up and running. Only replaced the 2 resisters C05, and C06. Bought the PS just in case. Anyone want to buy the PS off me, I will give you a deal. Anyway, thanks a bunch! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ongtw75 Posted July 11, 2024 Share Posted July 11, 2024 On 6/28/2024 at 7:05 PM, Karan said: Hello, thanks for this lovely hack. It definitely works. I did come across a small issue. When I turn off soundbar (48), the subwoofer and the surround 3 speakers remain on and will not go in standby. It's as if they are still paired to the soundbar even though it is off. what could I have done wrong? Has anyone else faced this issue? Hi Karan, You may try to disconnect the STB wire from the new power supply and use electrical tape to insulate it. This wire is only needed if you are still using the original power supply board. STB is a signal thrown out by the microcontroller chip. It tells the rest of the speaker system to wake up (3.3V) or power down (0V), so if it is permanently connected to 5V on the new power supply, it could mean the speaker system never goes to standby/sleep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lerchertv Posted July 30, 2024 Share Posted July 30, 2024 (edited) I've read all these post and I had a customer bring me in this Cinema 600 soundbar with the same problem, only about 2.5v on the 5v supply line. I found C05 a 220uf 16v filter bad. Replacing this filter fixed the soundbar. file:///C:/Users/Owner/Desktop/IMG_2084.JPG Edited July 30, 2024 by lerchertv 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lerchertv Posted July 30, 2024 Share Posted July 30, 2024 I don't know if that link to the picture will work. I couldn't find anywhere that I could just drag or insert my picture of the power supply but now I see a place where I can on this post. I guess because I hadn't registered yet on my other post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KVD Posted August 17, 2024 Share Posted August 17, 2024 (edited) Hi all, same problem on my cinema 600. Died after 3.5 yrs of light use (once or twice a week). Followed instructions on thread and a YouTube vid. Replaced power supply. Still not powering on. Anything else that i can check? Nevermind. Works now. Followed a YouTube vid which actually had wires flipped. Followed Klements pic and works now. Edited August 17, 2024 by KVD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt in LA Posted August 18, 2024 Share Posted August 18, 2024 I got my 600 replaced under warranty with an 800. Unfortunately, the power supply in that went dead after a several months. Does anyone know what power supply can replace it? I'm a complete amateur but It seems to be larger than the PS for the 600. (or, do you think the replacement for the 600 will work?) Thanks. Matt IMG_5423.heic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt in LA Posted August 18, 2024 Share Posted August 18, 2024 This is a Jpeg of the 800's power supply photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skunkworks.indigo Posted August 22, 2024 Share Posted August 22, 2024 I'm pretty much on the same page as you @Matt in LA I'm working on my Cinema 700, which has about the same wattage as the Cinema 800 (800W vs 860W). Here's how the spec sheets compare, although I don't know if it's enough power/electrical information to figure out which power supply to use. Thought about trying to replace some capacitors but without a bit more electrical knowledge and/or testing all of them I don't feel confident to go that route and I'm not super great at soldering. A few of them just look leaky so I might as well just swap the module. I've been thinking that the higher wattage bumps it up to the next level module compared to what people have been using for the Bar 48 or Cinema 600 (600W) I ordered this one: https://a.co/d/9F2tWwk but I don't think it's going to work since it's not a dual switch module. So I'm back to thinking I will need a different/higher power board based on the increased wattage. Essentially, still scratching my head. Used this converter a few times trying to figure things out: https://www.electricalsafetyfirst.org.uk/watts-to-amps-calculator/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt in LA Posted August 22, 2024 Share Posted August 22, 2024 Thank you Skunkworks! I ordered the same PS but I realized, like you that its not likely to work. Keep me posted. I'm not ready to give up yet but...This may go in the trash! I like Klipsch speakers but their sound bars? Get them out of my house! LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skunkworks.indigo Posted August 26, 2024 Share Posted August 26, 2024 This dang site keeps clearing my posts when it wants me to log in so I'll try to summarize what I already wrote... I'm noticing some key differences between the Bar48's power module and the ones used in the Cinema 700 and 800, which I'm assuming are basically the same. On the 5-prong connection on the 700's module the connections are labeled GND-GND-VCC-VCC-STB, whereas the other posts about the BAR48 power module have VDD instead of VCC (Vtage at the Common Connector). Can you confirm those are the same on yours? Found this about differences between VCC/VDD: https://www.allinthedifference.com/difference-between-vdd-and-vcc/ Note the differences between MOSFETs and BJTs (bipolar junction transistors). So I need to gather some more info about how these work differently with the Cinema 700/800 power modules before I start making connections. But @Matt in LA, if you do decide to call it quits I'm wondering if you wouldn't mind sending me your power module as it could come in handy with fixing mine. I'm willing to pay for the shipping of course. So yeah, I'm hesitant to start cutting wires until I'm sure that replacing individual transistors is not the better route. Still learning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skunkworks.indigo Posted August 26, 2024 Share Posted August 26, 2024 Also note the additional 2-prong plug that sits to the right of the 5-prong DC connector. I think this might be for powering the LED display the 700 has that shows through the speaker fabric mesh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt in LA Posted August 26, 2024 Share Posted August 26, 2024 Yes Skunkworks. My 5 prong plug is labeled Gnd Gnd VCC VCC STB as well. My PS looks exactly the same as yours. So I thing the 700 and 800 is the same. That's an interesting tidbit about the two prongs running the LED. I still haven't made up my mind if I want to throw it out but I'll mail the PS to you if I do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skunkworks.indigo Posted August 27, 2024 Share Posted August 27, 2024 Sweet, thanks!! Well I did order a multimeter, fwiw, so there is that. I'm ok with soldering so if I can figure out exactly which transistors or capacitors are dead I will probably end up trying that before I go to bare wires. One thing I kinda hate though is the power cord is so tough to plug and unplug. Have been wondering if maybe that was actually the problem because I was pulling that out to power cycle it when Bluetooth or something else was wonky. I noticed the power port was a little loose in the board so I resoldered it but still wouldn't power on. Going to use a switch at the outlet from now on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ongtw75 Posted August 30, 2024 Share Posted August 30, 2024 On 8/27/2024 at 3:49 PM, skunkworks.indigo said: Sweet, thanks!! Well I did order a multimeter, fwiw, so there is that. I'm ok with soldering so if I can figure out exactly which transistors or capacitors are dead I will probably end up trying that before I go to bare wires. One thing I kinda hate though is the power cord is so tough to plug and unplug. Have been wondering if maybe that was actually the problem because I was pulling that out to power cycle it when Bluetooth or something else was wonky. I noticed the power port was a little loose in the board so I resoldered it but still wouldn't power on. Going to use a switch at the outlet from now on. Hi Skunkworks, I don't own a 700 or 800 but have fixed the power boards of Bar48 and Cinema 600 a couple of times, and they all suffered the same capacitor failure. The photo that you've attached seems to show the same capacitor failure (red box), with the top of the capacitor bulging. That's not a good sign. You may change them to see if that's the cause of the problem. Do get some capacitors of the same rating and of low ESR (equivalent series resistance) specification. I have good experience with those from NCC KZE series. The 5 and 2 prong plugs are very similar to the 600. With a multimeter, VCC should measure at least 5V wrt GND. There won't be any voltage at the 2 prong until the soundbar has powered up. The microcontroller chip at the amplifier board side will signal the STB pin 'high' (>2.5V), only then will the main power circuit be turned on. For the 600, the 2 prong plug measures 24V. Hope this is useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinB Posted August 30, 2024 Share Posted August 30, 2024 On 8/27/2024 at 1:49 AM, skunkworks.indigo said: Going to use a switch at the outlet from now on. This is a bit off topic but... The workaround to resolve loss of audio on the Cinema soundbars has been to power cycle them either by removing to power plug from the electrical outlet or removing the power cable from the soundbar itself. Klipsch did provide a better workaround but I can no longer locate the support document. All I can say is I have used it and it does work on my Cinema 800. On the soundbar, hold down the volume down (-) button and the power button together for about fifteen seconds until the soundbar restarts. This usually will restore the loss of audio without having to power cycle the soundbar. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt in LA Posted September 1, 2024 Share Posted September 1, 2024 Thanks Ongtw75. I took a look at mine and don't see any bulging caps. It doesn't men much because I'm such an amateur. What about you, Skunkworks? Any luck? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skunkworks.indigo Posted September 3, 2024 Share Posted September 3, 2024 Yeah, thanks @ongtw75! I totally missed that! Okay I will look into this. Might actually be an easier fix ultimately. Would you suggest just doing both of them? The left one in the pic doesn't seem to be distended. Also I've been told capacitors can still carry a bunch of electricity in them after being powered off -- is that something we should be mindful of? So to answer your question, @Matt in LA, nothing yet, it's still sitting there. Just thought I'd wait for the other ps module I ordered from AliExpress in case that turns out to be a better match. And thank you @KevinB for that tip -- I'm always thinking the physical plug has to come out but man the ones on these is a real pain to deal with! I now have a physical switch outlet that is plugged into the surge protector and the soundbar plugs into that. So I still think the power button restart is like a soft reset and the plug itself is a full power cycle, but correct me if I'm wrong. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinB Posted September 3, 2024 Share Posted September 3, 2024 1 hour ago, skunkworks.indigo said: So I still think the power button restart is like a soft reset and the plug itself is a full power cycle, but correct me if I'm wrong. Trial and error taught us to power cycle the soundbar then Klipsch provided an alternative method with a firmware update but, as usual, provide no information about what happens behind the scenes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ongtw75 Posted September 4, 2024 Share Posted September 4, 2024 11 hours ago, skunkworks.indigo said: Would you suggest just doing both of them? The left one in the pic doesn't seem to be distended. Also I've been told capacitors can still carry a bunch of electricity in them after being powered off -- is that something we should be mindful of? I think they both are of the same capacitor specs and yes, I would change both since we're already here. The high voltage capacitors and circuit are at the top half of your photo, an imaginary horizontal line dividing the 2 yellow transformers, top half is the 'live' or 'hot' high voltage circuit and you'll want to avoid touching any part of it while troubleshooting. The high voltage capacitors may take a couple of minutes to be totally discharged when power is removed. No such worries for the bottom half. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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