Bar 48 No-Power Repair Thread

[SixerFixer]

 

On 1/2/2022 at 12:42 PM, Had1964 said:

Hi all,

The power supply on our Klipsch Cinema 600 sound bar just failed. 2 weeks out of warranty…. The amazon link furnished above doesn’t seem to be the appropriate voltage. Can someone verify that this is the correct power supply for replacement of ETOP LPS-U101D2405L? Or is there another that works (preferably from amazon)? Thank you in advance!

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WKH5RZV/ref=srdp?keywords=noyito+ac+to+dc+power+supply+24v+5v&srpt=POWER_CONVERTER&sres=B07WKH5RZV%2CB07T9PJ9D7%2CB07BDL176B%2CB07JV7CN1T%2CB07C1JHBB3%2CB07CNTHTSP%2CB07FNFJTHH%2CB0816B34FR%2CB07CML2GXN%2CB081RGVJGD%2CB06XJVYDDW%2CB07BLTTX1W%2CB07C8R5PJD%2CB07HWP4TSX%2CB07G6J3PK1%2CB07BLQKW37&qsid=135-3283479-4546535

 

 

Does the Klipsch Cinema 600 use the same power supply as I swapped out from the Bar48 (ETOP LPS-U101D2405L)? If so, this is the one I purchased:

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32854245846.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27424c4dd5WZa7

 

Just verify when it arrives make sure it's a 5v/24v dual output power supply. The seller first sent me a 5v/12v one by accident which wouldn't have worked. It would be great if this repair can be applied to the Cinema 600 as well, as I've heard those are equally as unreliable as the Bar48!

 

With regards to my repair... the replacement power supply has been working perfectly after 3 and a half months of heavy use. It's great to see others sharing similar experiences with this repair, and encourage everyone to share their success story if they are able to revive their sound bar.

Edited January 29, 2022 by SixerFixer

[KevinB]

On 1/2/2022 at 1:42 PM, Had1964 said:

The power supply on our Klipsch Cinema 600 sound bar just failed. 2 weeks out of warranty….

 

That appears to be a common occurrence with the Cinema 600. Mine died too!

 

Don't worry that it is out of warranty. Open a case with Klipsch Product support. They know this is an issue affecting Cinema 600s. They may still arrange for a warranty replacement.

 

Replacing a power supply yourself is an extra cost and effort. It should used only as a last ditch effort!

[thesupereduperdude]

tried this with my broken cinema 600 that had the same power supply and followed all the directions, no power still. I realize that the power supply says 1.5 amps for the 5v rail maybe thats what it needs?

[Chadder]

On 2/1/2022 at 11:17 PM, thesupereduperdude said:

tried this with my broken cinema 600 that had the same power supply and followed all the directions, no power still. I realize that the power supply says 1.5 amps for the 5v rail maybe thats what it needs?

Did they send you a 5v/24v dual output or 5v/12v?   Make sure it’s 24v

[SixerFixer]

On 2/3/2022 at 8:06 AM, Chadder said:

Did they send you a 5v/24v dual output or 5v/12v?   Make sure it’s 24v

 

The 5v rail should still allow it to power on. The 24v rail is used to power the speakers themselves.

 

I'd suggest double checking the wiring and making everything is plugged in where it needs to be. I do find with the new power supply, my Bar48 takes a few seconds to actually power on after hitting the power button... it may spring to life if you give it a few seconds after powering it on!

[Linishing]

Thanks for posting this up. 

 

I can confirm the power supply is the same for the cinema 600. I have just completed the repair to my sound bar and it is back up and running. 

Also confirming on the cinema 600 the GND is the white cable, VDD is black and STB is the red wire on the smaller plug. 

as above twist the VDD  and STB together and it will all work as expected. 

 

 

[ralphkramden25]

Bar 48 effort here...

It seems my order has arrived and I confirmed it is 24V 4A and 5V 1A.
 

Be Careful... the amazon link works but you have to choose the right configuration...
Amazon currently out of the 24V 4A and 5V 1A.....

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WKH5RZV/ref=srdp?keywords=noyito+ac+to+dc+power+supply+24v+5v&srpt=POWER_CONVERTER&sres=B07WKH5RZV%2CB07T9PJ9D7%2CB07BDL176B%2CB07JV7CN1T%2CB07C1JHBB3%2CB07CNTHTSP%2CB07FNFJTHH%2CB0816B34FR%2CB07CML2GXN%2CB081RGVJGD%2CB06XJVYDDW%2CB07BLTTX1W%2CB07C8R5PJD%2CB07HWP4TSX%2CB07G6J3PK1%2CB07BLQKW37&qsid=135-3283479-4546535

 

So I got it all unscrewed and getting started...

 

Following this-

GND is your ground, VDD is your +5V voltage, and STB is your standby line (as labelled from the original power supply removed from the Bar48). Because the STB line also happens to be a +5V channel, you can simply twist the VDD and STB wires together and plug them into the +5V out line of the power supply, and the soundbar should work. Make sure you verify which side of the new power supply is 5V and which side is 24V! Very important to not plug the VDD and STB wires into the +24V output by accident or you will likely fry your Bar48's mainboard.

 

Any other tips before I let the smoke out??
Mounting options? I will likely glue or drill and bolt.
Anything to test or check other then it works??

Cheers for all the contributions. I almost tossed this in the bin.

[ralphkramden25]

It's alive. So here is my archive of the issues...


This is the Power supply I have and where you hook up to this one!
Make sure you verify yours.

[ralphkramden25]

Some more-

 

Blue arrow is the current 124V lines Red=+24 and Blk is ground. (pic above says 12 but I meant 24)
Green arrow is STB/VDD/GND.

 

Red Arrows...UGH...
Screws have locetite on them and I don't have the right allen for the PWR supply on the outside.
So once you are inside the box you have regular screw heads.
I own alot of allens but I don't have the one for the Power Supply.

I need to make my own holes and bracket for my power supply either way so...
Likely gonna dremel the bad circuit board out.
 

Edited March 2, 2022 by ralphkramden25

[ralphkramden25]

Update on the smaller allen screws that hold the power supply.
It is one step down in allen size.

The issue is two fold..
1- Remove loctite before you try to unscrew, just scrap it away.
2- put the panel back in original position for mechanical advantage.

I was fighting the panel flex and did not get a bight at all from my allen.
Got one out but still working on the other.
 

[ongtw75]

Hi everyone, I'm new to this community and recently found this thread on fixing the Bar 48. 

I'm a speaker repair hobbyist and recently a customer brought to me his Bar 48, complaining of no power. 

 

As SixerFixer has already written, the problem is related to the 5V output of the smps. Basically the smps could not sustain 5V when the sound processor chip is drawing current to power up the system, resulting in the voltage dipping to 2.7V. Thereafter the chip may sort of hangs itself and releases the drawing current, thereafter the voltage will rise back towards 5V.

 

I've pin point the failure to be caused by C05 and C06, both being 220uF 16V electrolytic capacitors. There may not be any visible damage. 

For my case, 1 capacitor measured 169uF with ESR 0.4ohm, the other 30uF with ESR 4.5ohm. The latter part is closest to D02 (rectifying diode for this circuit).

 

 

 

My initial fix was to replace the 2 capacitors with similar size and specifications type. The speaker did work properly however both capacitors were running very hot and it's only a matter of time before they will fail again. Without going much into technical discussion, basically the board requires very low ESR type capacitors to sustain a longer life span.

 

My final fix is to replace C05 with 2x 100uF 50V (United Chemi-con KY series) capacitors soldered in parallel. This capacitor measures with ESR of about 0.17ohm. By connecting them in parallel, I effectively half the ESR but double the capacitance to 200uF (short of 20uF but still good enough). You may try purchasing a low ESR type capacitor of the same 220uF 16V, but I find it nearly impossible to have the right size that fits.

 

I've also taken the opportunity to remove some of the silicon rubber glue surrounding D02 in order to give better cooling to that area.

 

 

The extra capacitor is inserted onto C44A. The leads needed to be bent slightly to fit in the space. I've also deliberately mounted it in 'reverse polarity' with the aim of using the copper traces beneath for bridging.

 

 

Below shows how the soldering was done. The yellow 'L' is kapton tape, to ensure no accidental bridging between those traces.

 

 

The end result is that all the capacitors running cool to touch. I'll presume with cooler temperatures, this smps should last much longer than intended.

Hope this info is useful for anyone out there. 

 

Cheers!

Edited March 10, 2022 by ongtw75

[minus0]

On 2/28/2022 at 2:58 PM, ralphkramden25 said:

It's alive. So here is my archive of the issues...


This is the Power supply I have and where you hook up to this one!
Make sure you verify yours.

Thanks for posting this!  I got mine on the way.  How is it working? There's quite a bit of filtering on the original so was wondering if there were issues with noise at all?

[minus0]

@ongtw75 Nice job! I have a replacement coming but i am going to try and get the original up and running.  I was also thinking there were issues with the caps.  Ordering an ESR meter to test them but I am going to replace them all with Nichicon caps.  The glue is an issue I think also. Its some type of foam stuff that I think holds in heat, especially when the PS is in the sound bar surrounded by more foam.

 

My PS had similar issues but I also have no power on the 24v side and a resister was popped on the right side of the output section that's in parallel to the 24v rectifier.  Now I cant read the number on it to replace it.  Judging by the Leadtrend documentation looks to be a 100ohm resister. So I will try that first.  The rectifier tests fine so I am leaning toward the caps or something else.

 

It seems like a good design with all the filtering just made bad by using cheap parts and lots of insulating glue!

 

If anyone is interested, here is the link to the Lead trend documentation for the controller LD7552BPS. Page 12 shows a schematic for a dual power supply (but its for 12v & 5V) which has been helpful for me in trouble shooting.

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/1133798/LEADTREND/LD7552B.html

[ralphkramden25]

7 hours ago, minus0 said:

Thanks for posting this!  I got mine on the way.  How is it working? There's quite a bit of filtering on the original so was wondering if there were issues with noise at all?

Everything seems good. I did this on 3 units and have 100% working.
Bluetooth responds correctly now!

 

 

[ongtw75]

10 hours ago, minus0 said:

@ongtw75 Nice job! I have a replacement coming but i am going to try and get the original up and running.  I was also thinking there were issues with the caps.  Ordering an ESR meter to test them but I am going to replace them all with Nichicon caps.  The glue is an issue I think also. Its some type of foam stuff that I think holds in heat, especially when the PS is in the sound bar surrounded by more foam.

 

My PS had similar issues but I also have no power on the 24v side and a resister was popped on the right side of the output section that's in parallel to the 24v rectifier.  Now I cant read the number on it to replace it.  Judging by the Leadtrend documentation looks to be a 100ohm resister. So I will try that first.  The rectifier tests fine so I am leaning toward the caps or something else.

 

It seems like a good design with all the filtering just made bad by using cheap parts and lots of insulating glue!

 

If anyone is interested, here is the link to the Lead trend documentation for the controller LD7552BPS. Page 12 shows a schematic for a dual power supply (but its for 12v & 5V) which has been helpful for me in trouble shooting.

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/1133798/LEADTREND/LD7552B.html

Hi minus0, the 24V section is controlled via the STB pin. Pull it up to 3.3 or 5V and the 24V smps will turn on. Under normal operating conditions, the sound processor chip controls this line when you press the power button. However if the processor isn't working (due to faulty 5V), then you will not see the 24V as well.

 

Is the popped resistor R23 ? It reads 512 (5k1) on my board.

[minus0]

14 hours ago, ongtw75 said:

Hi minus0, the 24V section is controlled via the STB pin. Pull it up to 3.3 or 5V and the 24V smps will turn on. Under normal operating conditions, the sound processor chip controls this line when you press the power button. However if the processor isn't working (due to faulty 5V), then you will not see the 24V as well.

 

Is the popped resistor R23 ? It reads 512 (5k1) on my board.

Good to know! I am working on reverse engineering this thing but haven't got all through it and wasn't sure how they were powering the smps section. But that makes sense now.

 

The popped resistor is R24.  Its on the feedback loop to the schottky rectifier.  Thanks!

[ongtw75]

10 hours ago, minus0 said:

Good to know! I am working on reverse engineering this thing but haven't got all through it and wasn't sure how they were powering the smps section. But that makes sense now.

 

The popped resistor is R24.  Its on the feedback loop to the schottky rectifier.  Thanks!

R24 reads 220 (22R).

 

 

As far as I can trace, the supply rails follow this sequence:

 

SMPS 5V -> 3.3V VRM - > 1.8V VRM

           5V -> ribbon cable that runs to the buttons, LED display panel and IR receiver. (far right side of the bar)

The sound processor chip (DSP) and bluetooth module run off the 3.3V and 1.8V rails (they are always actively 'listening' in).

 

SMPS 24V -> 15V VRM -> 5V VRM

The class-D amplifiers run off the 24V and I believe the 15V rail as well (not verified). Not sure where the second 5V rail goes to, possibly to the wireless surround/subwoofer port.

 

STB is pulled up to 3.3V but held low by the DSP in standby mode. It controls the enable signal to the 24V SMPS as well as both 15V/5V VRMs. I've also traced it to the ribbon cable.

 

Hope the above helps! Please do correct my post if you have new discoveries.

Thanks!

[NateAUS]

I can verify replacing the capacitors on the PSU is a better option and works, the STB signal enables the 24V power for the Amplification circuit otherwise power will be constantly on. A $1 worth of parts makes for a very cheap and quick repair I changed out both C05 and C06 16v 220mf. I used the ESR type which are designed for this application.

[ongtw75]

6 hours ago, NateAUS said:

I can verify replacing the capacitors on the PSU is a better option and works, the STB signal enables the 24V power for the Amplification circuit otherwise power will be constantly on. A $1 worth of parts makes for a very cheap and quick repair I changed out both C05 and C06 16v 220mf. I used the ESR type which are designed for this application.

Well done!

Thanks for the verification. Seems like this is a common weakness for this PSU, intentional or not.

[NateAUS]

On 3/19/2022 at 6:12 PM, ongtw75 said:

Well done!

Thanks for the verification. Seems like this is a common weakness for this PSU, intentional or not.

 

Switch mode PSU's are known for killing capacitors due the the high frequencies being used, but I would not expect failure after a year normally around 5 years.