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Give me some build ideas...


Coytee

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My wife has a "Job Rocker Plus".  Pictured here is what it looks like however, hers is black.

 

https://www.ionaudio.com/jobrockerplus

 

Brother in law had it on roof couple years ago when he was redoing a window....  fortunately, the Job Rocker fell from the roof as opposed to brother in law falling!

 

Still works (rugged little bugger!!) but it seems the battery won't hold a charge.

 

Got to looking to simply replace it.  Bought a Milwaukee at HD (I already had the 18v batteries).  The Job Rocker has maybe a 10" woofer with whizzer cone and a tweeter off to the side (I don't know that the tweeter is operational or just to fool you)

 

The Milwaukee unit has something like TWO woofers, but they are maybe 4-5 inch.  On doing a side by side, the Rocker had a fuller bottom end but the Milwaukee had a better midrange/top end BUT sounded pretty thin in comparison.  The Job Rocker actually sounds pretty decent.....so this got me thinking.

 

Forget about cost for a moment.  I know that EV makes a 12" (I think) driver with a coaxial tweeter hanging in the center of the woofer.  I'm debating on building a box....mounting something similar to the EV (or something that would work in a portable box and that design hits several check boxes.....BUT, I've never knowingly heard one.  That said, I've generally liked EV stuff)

 

So I'm looking for some ideas on designing and populating a Coytee-Rocker.  I can make the box.  I'm thinking on stealing the guts from the Job Rocker but I'm game to buy a new amp.  Hopefully one that can be used with an internal battery.  Dual power like this.  I'm thinking if I steal the guts, I'll keep the radio (she'd want that for sure) and input jacks.

 

I've got no idea what size box that EV coaxial would requre...so I'm open to any ideas.  Right now I'm just throwing some thoughts on the wall to see if something sticks.  I think it would be pretty cool to do something like this.  Her Job Rocker does NOT have a CD player....so if I could add a CD or DVD player, all the better!

 

MUST be portable and fairly easy to carry by a weenie like me or a stud like my wife!  :huh:

 

Thoughts??

 

Idle thoughts, perhaps over kill....perhaps not easily doable.  I'm thinking of getting some 3/4" BB plywood and dovetailing the sides of the box for integral strength plus anything else suggested.  (I've never dovetailed plywood but don't think I see any issue)

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13 hours ago, Coytee said:

Well....I should have poked around before asking.

 

https://www.parts-express.com/Blast-Box-200-Watt-Portable-Bluetooth-Speaker-Kit-300-7162

 

Don't know anything about it....no radio that I can see (maybe her phone would bluetooth radio??)

 

Anyway, tough to beat that price I'd have to think?

 

 

I agree.  I built two smaller Dayton kits with class-D amps and Bluetooth for family members.  They are nice but I would go with the one linked in your post.  One change would be to attack the hard edges with a router.

 

The Internet is extremely slow this morning, or I would attach photos of prior projects.  In any case, the Dayton unit you linked would be hard to beat.

 

Edited by DizRotus
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I built several of these.  The enclosures is a modified MDF speaker flat pack from Parts Express.  The class-D amp and Bluetooth are by SURE from PE.  The drivers are Radio Shack FE 103.   Single port, flared at both ends, (also from PE) vents both drivers.  The port is as long as space permits, as shortening it diminished the bass output.  The bass is best when the unit is placed on its back on a hard smooth surface with the port facing down.  The battery is a 12v motorcycle battery.  Although it performs very well, it is very heavy.  Again, I would choose the Dayton kit you linked, rather than build another one of these.

 

0712141411 (Medium).jpg

 

0712141410 (Mobile).jpg

 

The plate beneath the collapsible handle now houses inputs for a 1/8” TRS plug or RCA cables.  It also now has a three way input selection switch, as well as a volume control for the RCA inputs.  Despite a small sound improvement when hard wired to a source, the convenience of Bluetooth makes that the most used input.

 

E44B24C4-48C0-4E07-8665-941F26E7E172.jpeg

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FWIW I'd go mono with say PRV's 10 inch fullrange 10FR300, use about a 20 liter box made of 12mm birch plywood, or 1/2" pine plywood from HD if good quality.

 

Using bracing it might be possible to get away with 9mm Baltic birch plywood.

 

The driver is pretty chunky so that's the bulk of the weight.

 

For power a $30 mono TPA3116 amp if running off a media player or more expensive model if bluetooth is needed.  Use a series 450uF to flatten response and boost the low end a bit.   A tweeter could be added - maybe a JBL.Selenium ST200 bullet tweeter with pad rolling in 2nd order above 5KHz.

 

Power could come from a 20 volt tool battery slid into a $10 3D printed dedicated battery dock.  (the leads are ~12AWG)

 

Zp3MqIY.jpg

 

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for less weight and money for stereo - this Vifa is pretty good - (real good for $10 )- 9mm Baltic birch would be sufficient.

https://www.parts-express.com/Peerless-TC9FD18-08-3-1-2-Full-Range-Paper-Cone-Woofer-264-1062?gclid=Cj0KCQjw-NaJBhDsARIsAAja6dOAY6loAw7PP0UrtVOM0TZJ-CLmEKntwt07ys8BY_W2H1u4sRueNwIaAp8OEALw_wcB

 

Dayton's PA130 made pretty good sound in an "XKi" Karlson by XRK971 - its price has gone like a lot of stuff by 50% in the last few months to ~$23.

 

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