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** SOLD** ALK Universal Crossovers


Heaterman

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One (1) pair/set of ALK Universal crossovers in perfect condition and functionality.

 

These have the standard 500 Hz +/- low frequency cross point BUT have a 4000 Hz squawker/tweeter cross point (vs the more typical 6000 Hz cross point).

 

You can not use these with a stock K77 tweeter but if you've moved to Dave's or other aftermarket tweeter you'll be fine.

 

$250 shipped and insured to the lower 48

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  • Heaterman changed the title to ** SOLD** ALK Universal Crossovers
8 hours ago, carlthess40 said:

Does these work with the H1’s? And yes I have Dave’s b&c120 tweeters

Yes indeed. I have these in my Heresy I pair with Dave's tweeter. Add 10awg pure copper wire for all connections, and you will have sound as good or better than Heresy III or IV.

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10 minutes ago, pcbiz said:

Add 10awg pure copper wire for all connections, and you will have sound as good or better than Heresy III or IV.

Not really, but good try.  Considering that the internal wiring on the network is 16awg or less, 10 awg is not close to being necessary.  JMHO of course.

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23 hours ago, jimjimbo said:

Not really, but good try.  Considering that the internal wiring on the network is 16awg or less, 10 awg is not close to being necessary.  JMHO of course.

I meant connections from the crossover board to the drivers, like the newest Klipsch speakers.

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22 hours ago, jimjimbo said:

Still not necessary.  But hey, they are yours.  Have fun.

It is absolutely necessary, and fun, to experiment with 10awg copper wire. Anyone interested in improving with crossovers should try the 10awg connections to all drivers. So far, it has really improved my Heresy I pair, and two weeks ago, my Chorus II pair. At some point, I will have La Scalas, and will try it again. You get a little bump in volume, presence and detail. The electrons are just happier. Experimenting and doing a listening test, like the Klipsch engineers, is the only way to tell the difference.

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19 minutes ago, pcbiz said:

It is absolutely necessary, and fun, to experiment with 10awg copper wire. ... The electrons are just happier. 

 

Two feet of 16 ga copper wire has a resistance of 0.008 Ohms.

Two feet of 10 ga copper wire has a resistance of 0.002 Ohms.

Even two feet of 20 ga copper wire has a resistance of only 0.02 Ohms.

Considering that the voice coil DC resistance is in the Ohms range, all are negligible. In fact you'd be hard-pressed to find two drivers of identical make and model in which the voice coil resistances were within 0.018 Ohms of each other. Not to mention the fact that there are often padding resistors present in the midrange and tweeter circuits.

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20 minutes ago, Edgar said:

 

Two feet of 16 ga copper wire has a resistance of 0.008 Ohms.

Two feet of 10 ga copper wire has a resistance of 0.002 Ohms.

Even two feet of 20 ga copper wire has a resistance of only 0.02 Ohms.

Considering that the voice coil DC resistance is in the Ohms range, all are negligible. In fact you'd be hard-pressed to find two drivers of identical make and model in which the voice coil resistances were within 0.018 Ohms of each other. Not to mention the fact that there are often padding resistors present in the midrange and tweeter circuits.

Please do not inject science and logic into a wire conversation.

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1 hour ago, Edgar said:

 

Two feet of 16 ga copper wire has a resistance of 0.008 Ohms.

Two feet of 10 ga copper wire has a resistance of 0.002 Ohms.

Even two feet of 20 ga copper wire has a resistance of only 0.02 Ohms.

Considering that the voice coil DC resistance is in the Ohms range, all are negligible. In fact you'd be hard-pressed to find two drivers of identical make and model in which the voice coil resistances were within 0.018 Ohms of each other. Not to mention the fact that there are often padding resistors present in the midrange and tweeter circuits.


Apparently I'm hearing itty bitty resistance differences from 10awg wire. I have experimented in the audio realm, not the paper realm. Don't knock it 'til you try it.

 

If you have already tried a 10 or 8 awg pure copper wire experiment, and discern no difference, I can respect that. If you haven't tried it, how can you actually know the difference?

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2 hours ago, Dave A said:

Please do not inject science and logic into a wire conversation.

 

1 hour ago, pcbiz said:

Apparently I'm hearing itty bitty resistance differences from 10awg wire.

 

Apparently it's itty bitty science and logic.

 

Done a blind test between your 10awg against 12/16/18?  Doubt it, but if you think you can hear it, then that's all that matters.

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On 9/11/2021 at 12:27 PM, pcbiz said:

Apparently I'm hearing itty bitty resistance differences from 10awg wire. I have experimented in the audio realm, not the paper realm. Don't knock it 'til you try it.

 

If you have already tried a 10 or 8 awg pure copper wire experiment, and discern no difference, I can respect that. If you haven't tried it, how can you actually know the difference?

OK I will bite. How do you measure and control the resistance from the aggregate of all the components from the amp output terminals to the front of the speaker? Everything from the connection terminals to input and barrier strips and capacitors and did you measure each inductor for uniformity  and trim each wire in each equivalent function to precisely the very same length? Did you measure the ohms on every driver to make sure they match and research which ohms output sounds the best? Not all drivers are created equal you know. Have you soldered in all internal speaker wiring to make sure no faulty connections are running up resistance?

 

Capacitors have resistance too. Did you go through your crossovers and take a combination of two capacitors soldered in parallel for every location used  to get correct UF value where they are used thereby reducing the ESR?

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On 9/11/2021 at 3:05 PM, jimjimbo said:

 

 

Apparently it's itty bitty science and logic.

 

Done a blind test between your 10awg against 12/16/18?  Doubt it, but if you think you can hear it, then that's all that matters.

I did try 12 and 16, not 18, unless that's the stock wiring from the factory. 10 AWG was consistently better. Now it's up to you. Prove your theory to yourself. It's just wires.

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4 hours ago, Dave A said:

OK I will bite. How do you measure and control the resistance from the aggregate of all the components from the amp output terminals to the front of the speaker? Everything from the connection terminals to input and barrier strips and capacitors and did you measure each inductor for uniformity  and trim each wire in each equivalent function to precisely the very same length? Did you measure the ohms on every driver to make sure they match and research which ohms output sounds the best? Not all drivers are created equal you know. Have you soldered in all internal speaker wiring to make sure no faulty connections are running up resistance?

 

Capacitors have resistance too. Did you go through your crossovers and take a combination of two capacitors soldered in parallel for every location used  to get correct UF value where they are used thereby reducing the ESR?


My approach is a bit less scientific. I cut the length of the 10AWG to match the skinny wires that came from the factory. For my Heresy pair, I got it right the first time. All drivers were balanced. For my Chorus II pair, I had to double check and reconnect the wiring until everything balanced out. They sound great now.

I'm new to Klipsch. I only have experience rewiring, re tubing and soldering connections in very loud tube guitar amplifiers. When the band says "Turn it down!" I know my sound is right. Besides, I use microphones now, so I can carry a smaller tube amp to rehearsal and gigs. I really like the Klipsch sound, because those horns really put me in a virtual audio/live setting.

This is the wiring that I used:

Amazon.com: GS Power Flexible 10 AWG (American Wire Gauge) 50 Feet Stranded Oxygen Free Copper Red/Black Bonded Zip Cord Cable for Car Audio Stereo Amplifier 12Volt Automotive Harness LED Light Wiring : Electronics

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7 hours ago, pcbiz said:

My approach is a bit less scientific. I cut the length of the 10AWG to match the skinny wires that came from the factory. 

 

I assume that the length is exactly 57 1/8 inches.

 

(Oh, I'm so sorry. I just can't get past that Medwin meme.)

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