Wood (solid) finishing question

[Coytee]

Given lack of some details, I'm making a monitor stand.

 

I have been given by work, a third monitor.  It's an Asus VERY THIN monitor (about 3/8" thick).  It has a folding piece of plastic that is its base and the monitor can be used in portrait or landscape.

 

I don't like the base....got to thinking I could probably make a piece of wood that would work.  Made a prototype and it works.

 

So I now have a 1x6x7 piece of walnut.  Cut approximate 3/8" slot across it, figured out the angle and where cut had to be for balance and it works and is secure.  Decided since I like how it works, I'm going to make one for my 15 co-workers who were given the same monitor.

 

Went to wood store yesterday, bought two 1x6x8 solid walnut boards.  Last night into the dark, I had finished trimming boards to even width (they had one side finished, other side was roughly parallel but did waiver in width).   Ripped to width, cut into 16 blanks.  Took router to them to put a decorative curve on three sides and called it a night.  

 

Raining today so can't yet go back out to cut the slot for the monitor.  Looking ahead on finishing....  and finally to my question (gads, you must be patient to read all the diatribe above!!)

 

So I have these solid Walnut blanks that need finish.  Would I just put a sealer on them?  (I have some gloss and semi gloss urethane type stuff that I got at wood store.....gal there said HER choice would be satin but since I have these on hand, she'd use these up)

 

Here is where I'm getting confused.  My (VERY artistic) wife says I should STAIN them dark.

 

HUH?  Isn't walnut already dark?  Do people stain walnut....??

 

My wife has artistic chops and has forgotten more than I've ever known so I DO know not to argue with her on artistic points, I just acquiesce.  Call me a wimp.  I can't argue.

 

I'm giving these to my coworkers.  They don't know about them, they won't care about them, this is a "working" item so it doesn't really matter if they had paisleys painted on them.

 

I would however, like them to look....well.....nice.

 

So how would I best finish them?  I'll try to get a picture of one.

[Coytee]

Just took phone pic to upload.  They're big file.  Give me chance to resize them before you poke my eyes out for huge files.

[Coytee]

 

 

 

 

 

[CECAA850]

@SemperFiAg08 has finished a lot of solid walnut.   Maybe he'll chime in.

[Coytee]

I don't know why first picture is duplicated.  I don't do this much with my phone so guess I'm a dummy.

 

I wasn't sure what depth so this one is my mule.  I think the deeper cut is what I'm going with so the finished versions will only have one cut on them, where the deep cut is.....in front.

[JJkizak]

I personally do not stain walnut as it makes it too dark and hides the grain.

JJK

[Coytee]

I've never worked with Walnut until yesterday.  Only Purple Heartwood, Maple & Ebony.  I'm a rank beginner on this stuff but it's fun to try to make something that works.

 

I didn't have the router bit for this curve and, didn't really know what curve I might want.  Gal at wood store told me to go to such & such place....  little did I know it was 20 miles on OTHER direction from going home so I dropped about 100 miles yesterday to get wood, bits and go home.  

 

None the less, the tool store (was impressive once I got there) was in Sevierville.  They had a HUGE display of router bits.  They were like $5.00 each.  Normally, I see them around $25 so I was getting shy about getting a cheap bit that might not do a single board.  I don't mind paying the piper if it's worth it.  The guy I talked to said these were made in China "specifically for them"  (hmmmm.....  ok although I'd bet some other companies can say that same thing)

 

None the less, he said they had carbide tips, they sold hundreds & hundreds of them and people love them.  Still.....knowing they'd be cheap and wimp out on me, I bought THREE of them for a total of about $17.00 out the door.  1/2" shank.  I gotta say, the first bit I put in there did all 17 blanks with no issues.  So for the practical side of me, this might be a place to buy them as they seem to cover my needs and tough to beat the price.  (anyone want to buy my two spares???  I'm only asking $15 each... )

[AndreG.]

Maybe no stain, just oil and wax, or just one of the two?

[Woofers and Tweeters]

Walnut color gets lighter in time, Sun light makes fading happen faster. I like natural finish (oil), but a lacquer is more durable. Next time that you need Walnut, Cherry or Oak, let me know.   

[Marvel]

I'm more for being able to adjust monitors, but once they are where I want them, I don't change them. I only have two monitors on my desk ( two 24 in.). My boss has four, three left to right and a smaller one on top that he uses to monitor servers being online.

 

Those are elegant enough, though and it's a nice gesture.

[Peter P.]

Watco Danish Oil. Choose your color. Stupid easy to apply. It retains the grain and feel of natural wood, but causes the grain to "pop" visually.

 

Poiyurethane finishes are so tacky.

 

Here's a weight rack I finished, as the bare boards looked bland. The finish was either Walnut or Mahogany, I forget. Looks a bit darker in person, but you get the idea.

 

 

[SemperFiAg08]

Don't stain. Stain is intended for cheaper woods to male them look nicer. I built most of my furniture with black walnut (darker than regular), and even built a subwoofer with walnut ply.

I'd say use a semi gloss or satin finish. I haven't been very pleased with oil based compared to some of the newer water based products (I think I used sparathane from home depot).

If you're wanting it just a little darker, go with an oiled finish that had a slight color to it. You can add as many coats as you like until it's the color you want they also make it without a tint, and it's not a bad way to finish it, either.

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