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La Scalas aren’t gone...


Invidiosulus
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I wouldn't fuse the tweeters, I know that is the easiest way to do it and many speakers use fuses but honestly that's very sophomoric.

 

Order a PTC device which goes high impedance to protect the tweeter when it passes a specific amount of current, under that amount of current it remains very low impedance. Klipsch uses these in their crossovers, usually paralleled with a 220 ohm resistor.

 

Since there is not much information up past 5kHz you do not need to worry about 50 watts going to the tweeter. For a kid I would probably set the tweeter PTC for around 2 watts maybe up to 5 watts maximum. So order a 500mA PTC for 2 watts or an 800mA PTC for 5 watts. Solder it in series with the tweeter after the crossovers filters and place a 220 ohm resistor in parallel with the PTC.

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3 hours ago, babadono said:

These LS have "improved" tweeters that can handle more power than the stock ones correct? Just curious because of tigerwoods concerns.

 

3 hours ago, Marvel said:

The APT50 driver is rated at 85watt rms with a 5k crossover, 45 watts with a 3.5k crossover

 

2 hours ago, Invidiosulus said:

Honestly, if I haven’t blown up the tweeters in my Heresy’s by now, I don’t think I have much to worry about.

Oh, he will figure it out.  Remember, a teenager thinks that good sound = as loud as possible.  🤣

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22 minutes ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

 

 

Oh, he will figure it out.  Remember, a teenager thinks that good sound = as loud as possible.  🤣

Well, my oldest turns 13 next month so I guess I’ll see what happens. 😂

 

@Marvel assures me that he has already pushed the LS pretty hard with a 300wpc Crown amp for a party at a convention center.

 

Besides, if something happens to the tweeters, that’s just an excuse to upgrade.

Right?

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3 hours ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

I bet you are fun to hang around with. 

 

Come again?

 

What I meant by sophomoric is that a fuse if in a situation went past it's current rating and blew you would have no sound from the tweeters and then someone has to go in and replace the fuse, both not great situations if you want a reputation of making reliable and trouble free speakers . For an engineer the polyswitch is a much better solution as if you run past the current rating it only raises it's impedance attenuating the tweeter so you still get sound from the tweeter, then after the over current situation resolves the polyswitch returns back to it's low impedance state allowing full signal to reach the tweeters. Protection that needs no service after it's activation and also still allows sound to be heard through the driver is definitely the more elegant solution.

 

I do not see that observation having any relation with my charisma.

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