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Klipsch RF-7 MK1 - Upgrade suggestion in a Nut shell!!


junaidot

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35 minutes ago, Deang said:

On no, I'm no guru, I have made a lot of mistakes though. People who don't know filter design should keep things as simple as possible. A little goes a long way, especially with these.

 

I would leave the small coils on the high pass alone. Bigger wire isn't always better, and the high DCR of that wire is important for that part of the circuit. There is also some mutual inductance, which is measured and accounted for in the design.

"Im no guru", that's what most HUMBLE people will say, when they are actually PRO.
Thx so much for the contribution. I might not go into cabinet upgrade immediately but I will very much love to change the coil.
I will soon start designing. using the original board is no problem, from the examples Ive seen from InVenTor, Did he use another board for the Coils and connect with wires? The point is that I could still see the 2 small coils on the board?? @InVeNtOr pls. give clue (many thx).

Thx all so far!
 

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31 minutes ago, junaidot said:

@Micromara
The https://xtreme-24.de/ only have up to 15uf, no 16uf which I need for LF PCB. Did you experience the samething?

as far as i know there´re  only the 16uF Jantzen Cross Caps available , should be fine for the LF PCB , used the superiorcaps  for the mid-hi pass only ....you may send them a email with your full list of cap requirements , they may offer an option ...

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Started sorting out Materials needed:

This is my LF
I know highlighted material is Caps (16uf/100v) -   I can only find (15uf/400v), at least from Jantzen
The White one left is Resistor  --  Is that the one whereby you recommended Resistor of THIEL? That shop is closed Temporarily. I want to be sure to buy correct value, hence the intention to stick to known/tried VENDOR

WHAT IS MATERIAL TO RIGHT and Value pls?

 

LF_Klipsch_RF7_ad.jpg.bdeb39f6f1ab48a2a0029b0b0a6f99d0.jpg

 

 

Now to my "HF"

The 2 white Materials are Resistors (Are those supposed to be Thiel's or Mudorf?)

2nd from Left:
The Black Caps is clear, I found: "JANTZEN SUPERIOR Z-CAP" any idea max diameter?

3rd from Left:

The Coils, What is exact Description because there are quite a few and what should be diameter?
4th from Left:
Are 2 Capacitors as well. Are these also supposed to be: "JANTZEN SUPERIOR Z-CAP" 5uf and 12uf and any idea max diameter?

 

Sorry, may be elementary but from all I have read correct material is extremely important

 

HF_Klipsch_RF7.thumb.JPG.d8abc5497d0e35c88cd3565b5381d945.JPG

 

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@junaidot  I wrote you clearly at the beginning that YOU must get a RF7 X-Over diagram from the community first , before you even start with the modification, first the theory, then the practice. I understand your enthusiasm, but such a project  needs preparation. Just remove the x-over and then realize that it is more difficult, I expected. that, many make the mistake.

 

 

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4 hours ago, MicroMara said:

@junaidot  I wrote you clearly at the beginning that YOU must get a RF7 X-Over diagram from the community first , before you even start with the modification, first the theory, then the practice. I understand your enthusiasm, but such a project  needs preparation. Just remove the x-over and then realize that it is more difficult, I expected. that, many make the mistake.

 

 

I havent started the practical:
Im indeed trying to understand the schematic and what each represent very well
so if someone can pls answer my question I will appreciate very much

Thx

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10 minutes ago, junaidot said:

I havent started the practical:
Im indeed trying to understand the schematic and what each represent very well
so if someone can pls answer my question I will appreciate very much

Thx

Here´s the RF7 Original x-over digramm for your further assistance , should help a lot 😉

 

2101515923_RF7Diagramm.jpg.81d42167a7080d24598ad61ab0049c80.jpg

 

 

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2 minutes ago, MicroMara said:

All resisitor, with origin values  for the LF as well as the Hi Pass LCR  ..you can use the Mundorf Resistors without any problems . The Jantzen Caps with origin values won´t fit on the borad , they´re much bigger !

Talking about Jantzen Caps, I saw that the resistors are moved to under part of board, leaving more room for caps

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For my RF-7 I replaced the caps utilizing the Dean G mod (Auricap for the HF and Solon for the LF as well as replaced the resistor with Mills), I kept the original inductors.


I was able to shoehorn the new caps in place of the old caps, unlike my RC-7 which I had to relocate the HF section (2nd photo).


I can't comment on the best cap since I didn't do a comparison, but I am pleased with the combination that I used.

 

IMG_0002.jpg

 

IMG_0023.jpg.13f534e014c63039cde86761c74dc97b.jpg

 

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12 minutes ago, Southern said:

For my RF-7 I replaced the caps utilizing the Dean G mod (Auricap for the HF and Solon for the LF as well as replaced the resistor with Mills), I kept the original inductors.


I was able to shoehorn the new caps in place of the old caps, unlike my RC-7 which I had to relocate the HF section (2nd photo).


I can't comment on the best cap since I didn't do a comparison, but I am pleased with the combination that I used.

 

 

 

 

 

@SouthernI appreciate the detailed photos (which is on its own is quite self explicit) and the description. Its indeed in a Nutshell!!
How will you describe the Result in terms of Bass and tweeters performance compared to old state?

 

Now General Question to Others experiences:
How will you compare the performance achieved when much more expensive Caps like Jantzen Superior will be used. Is the extra cost worth it?

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6 minutes ago, junaidot said:

@SouthernI appreciate the detailed photos (which is on its own is quite self explicit) and the description. Its indeed in a Nutshell!!
How will you describe the Result in terms of Bass and tweeters performance compared to old state?

 

 

I did the mod over 10 years ago, but from what I remember is that the the mids and highs were more open and clear.  Since I use my RF-7's in my home theater (RC-7 & RS-7's) I found that the imaging was also much improved.  I drive my home theater with an older Pioneer Elite receiver (140W x7) and like to listen to blu-ray concerts at concert volume levels.  The bass is nice and tight (chest thumping) and not distorted.  The overall sound is very balanced and when watching a blu-ray concert I feel like I am in the concert hall.  The more that I turn up the volume, I feel that I am moving closer to the stage.  At +10 I feel like I am on stage with the performers.

 

My thought process for this build was to get the most improvement for the price (bang for the buck).  

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30 minutes ago, Southern said:

I did the mod over 10 years ago, but from what I remember is that the the mids and highs were more open and clear.  Since I use my RF-7's in my home theater (RC-7 & RS-7's) I found that the imaging was also much improved.  I drive my home theater with an older Pioneer Elite receiver (140W x7) and like to listen to blu-ray concerts at concert volume levels.  The bass is nice and tight (chest thumping) and not distorted.  The overall sound is very balanced and when watching a blu-ray concert I feel like I am in the concert hall.  The more that I turn up the volume, I feel that I am moving closer to the stage.  At +10 I feel like I am on stage with the performers.

 

My thought process for this build was to get the most improvement for the price (bang for the buck).  

@Deang,

 

Of course whoever has the experience

 

I need your help please. 

  1. From what I have read so far I conclude to use JANTZEN SUPERIOR for the 2    18uf
  2. Now for the 5uf and 12uf due to size and what combines best. Which caps do you suggest?
  3. I will keep all inductors for now (as earlier suggested by Deang and now confirmed by Southern)


 

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