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How would you restore this Cornwall?


gsgleason

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Oiled Walnut veneer.  Several edges and corners have damage with missing veneer as well as missing the underlying structure.

 

End goal is to remove the old finish, sand, and do something more neutral that won't yellow, like a water-based satin poly over either an oil rub to bring out the grain/dimension, or seal with shellac then poly, or maybe just poly on the raw wood.

 

My first thought was to clean the wound, cut out the damaged veneer, fill, sand, and replace veneer bits.  This seems tedious and difficult.  I'd need a thicker veneer than stock so I can sand flush.

 

I have also considered simply cleaning, filling sanding alone, but I'm concerned that the filler will really stand out, especially after being finished.

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Greg.

PXL_20220106_020003767.jpg

PXL_20220106_015958568.jpg

Edited by gsgleason
Clarification and photos.
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1 minute ago, gsgleason said:

I prematurely submitted.  Photos have been added. 

Cool...yes corners may need some bondo or wood putty filler and deep scratches as well before either a duratex black finish. There is some self adhesive wood veneer I understand on the market. Others will hope you out as more hands on than I...

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@gsgleason

IMOP your suggestions will be very difficult,  will cost a lot of time and money, and unfortunately will not have a satisfactory result. You are correct in attempting to ask around to find a solution that works better for you. I provided you with three strategies that will likely have an improved potential outcome for you. It would be better to make your choice dependent on your level of experience, ambition, budget, and goals. Your level of personal success will mostly be based on your ability to not over/underestimate those things.

 

First choice

Difficulty 2 / Cost 10/ Rewarding 6

1A) Sell speakers, run, buy new speakers, enjoy

 

Second choice

Difficulty 4 / Cost 2/ Rewarding 2

1B)Bondo speakers, wood filler, grain filler, black lacquer, enjoy

 

Third choice

Difficulty 10/ Cost 6/ Rewarding 10

1)Bondo

2)Sand 80/120

3)Wood Putty

4)Sand 80/120

5)Grain filler 

6)Sand 80/120

7)Veneer adhesive

8)Veneer all sides of both speakers with wood species of choice

9)Wood conditioner

10)Water or alcohol based Dye

11)Sand 240

12)Non-Wax shellac

13)Sand 360

14)Water based Stain 

15)Sand 360

16A)Speakers kept are in a room full of windows: 3 coats Epifanes Marine Varnish for maximum UV protection
16B)Speakers are not in direct sunlight: 3 coats Spray Lacquer

17)After full cure: hand rub with a brown paper bag

18)Send pics so we can all enjoy

 

 

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12 minutes ago, 314carpenter said:

@gsgleason

IMOP your suggestions will be very difficult,  will cost a lot of time and money, and unfortunately will not have a satisfactory result. You are correct in attempting to ask around to find a solution that works better for you. I provided you with three strategies that will likely have an improved potential outcome for you. It would be better to make your choice dependent on your level of experience, ambition, budget, and goals. Your level of personal success will mostly be based on your ability to not over/underestimate those things.

 

First choice

Difficulty 2 / Cost 10/ Rewarding 6

1A) Sell speakers, run, buy new speakers, enjoy

 

Second choice

Difficulty 4 / Cost 2/ Rewarding 2

1B)Bondo speakers, wood filler, grain filler, black lacquer, enjoy

 

Third choice

Difficulty 10/ Cost 6/ Rewarding 10

1)Bondo

2)Sand 80/120

3)Wood Putty

4)Sand 80/120

5)Grain filler 

6)Sand 80/120

7)Veneer adhesive

8)Veneer all sides of both speakers with wood species of choice

9)Wood conditioner

10)Water or alcohol based Dye

11)Sand 240

12)Non-Wax shellac

13)Sand 360

14)Water based Stain 

15)Sand 360

16A)Speakers kept are in a room full of windows: 3 coats Epifanes Marine Varnish for maximum UV protection
16B)Speakers are not in direct sunlight: 3 coats Spray Lacquer

17)After full cure: hand rub with a brown paper bag

18)Send pics so we can all enjoy

 

 

So basically level the surface and re-veneer over the whole thing?

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What I might suggest is to buy some 1/2in Baltic Birch and laminate to the top, bottom and sides with PL and screws.

Once you route the corners and edges with a flush trim bit, sand all these edges and fill the screw holes and sand you can then veneer.

I like using a paper back veneer of your choice and Heat-Lock glue.

As Michael said, your source for the veneer, glue, tools, and tutorials is:

https://www.veneersupplies.com

 

I have gone this route a couple of time with some very beat up cabinets,

See this link for how these rough Peavey bass bins came back to life.

 

FH_1s.thumb.jpg.0b3e179a1392111cb4e15e5ad2d912ee.jpg

 

https://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/649648769-klipsch-peavey-jub-peavey/

 

Your Corns will look great and sound better with the cabinets being 1.25in thick vs. .75in.

 

 

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2 hours ago, gsgleason said:

So basically level the surface and re-veneer over the whole thing?

 I would not reveneer but rather slap on pre-veneered wood panels , save yourself the trouble of re-veneering when a thicker cab is only 1 operation after you sand and level

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@gsgleason

 

you can  send the cabs to a woodworker to slap on 1/8. --1/4 inch pre-veneered wood panels with the wood finish of your choice if that is something you are not comfortable with , the reason to use pre-veneered panels is to have smoothing panels to cover the damaged panels of the cabinet  , and avoid the re-veneering  process , plus the thicker cab will look brand new  and be straight as an arrow .

 

 

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Pre-veneered wood panels have obvious advantages and disadvantages. Plated in sheets of 24K gold? No, but only because it wouldn't sound better? Consideration will likely come down to local availability, shipping cost, actual product cost, in addition to your allocation of time and effort.

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I would repaint the motorboards if that is needed. Seeing the rest of the cab I would assume that is needed. Fill the deep scratches with Bondo or plastic wood. Build up the corners with Bondo or if they are too far gone glue wood pyramids on and sand square fill as needed. Then add veneer. 
 

the veneer is the easy part. You will need an exacto to cut the basic shapes. Contact cement and a cheap chip brush. A $10 veneer trimmer (this is essential) and some 220 grit sandpaper. That’s it.

 

it is much easier than you would think to get a professional looking finish.

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I have used the dap plastic wood filler under veneer with Great results. The Bondo wood filler is two part like the auto filler. I have not used it but I would like to try it. It probably sets up really hard and quick. I have used regular Bondo under veneer and paint on wood and it has worked well too. Just make sure whatever you use that it is set up and dry before you cover it.

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My 2c is to think about the objective(s).  Do the min necessary to facilitate Listening to them in case you or your voting spouse may rule unfavorably.  That can swing the whole thing fast.  If you've already decided to resurrect, sky is the limit and it becomes very personal.  Want to make an heirloom for (and even with) offspring, different-choice, etc.   

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