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Chorus crossovers


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16 hours ago, RandyH said:

you're better off , sending the crossovers to @JEM Performance  , they are the klipsch USA crossover repair center , they only use Klipsch Original capacitors  for the optimal sound quality .

 

-2nd option is for you  to purchase klipsch capacitors which you .......or a technician can solder  -VIP , the capacitors MUST fit the crossover or it becomes a mess -do it right and you'll  have great sounding speakers for the next 30 years - .

I already tried JEM, Jim doesn't want me to ship PSBs because the shipping process has damaged others that were either headed to him or back to the customer.  Now, after reading a lot of other posts on the topic, I most likely will be buying their capacitor kit, since it is Klipsch approved.  Unfortunately their Chorus capacitor kits  are out of stock until (about) late Feb.  Put the crossover back in today until then, I can't listen to the JBL 530s another minute longer if I don't have to! 

Loosening the autotransformer made crossover extraction and re-insertion MUCH easier and I was also able to install the port tubes from Parts Express while I had the 15"  K48 out.  I grew a thin union collar on our 3D printer at work to couple the 2 halves.

IMG_6135.JPG

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34 minutes ago, Yankee Rebel said:

I already tried JEM, Jim doesn't want me to ship PSBs because the shipping process has damaged others that were either headed to him or back to the customer.  Now, after reading a lot of other posts on the topic, I most likely will be buying their capacitor kit, since it is Klipsch approved.  Unfortunately their Chorus capacitor kits  are out of stock until (about) late Feb.  Put the crossover back in today until then, I can't listen to the JBL 530s another minute longer if I don't have to! 

Loosening the autotransformer made crossover extraction and re-insertion MUCH easier and I was also able to install the port tubes from Parts Express while I had the 15"  K48 out.  I grew a thin union collar on our 3D printer at work to couple the 2 halves.

IMG_6135.JPG

looks great

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37 minutes ago, Yankee Rebel said:

Already tried JEM, Jim doesn't want me to ship PCBs because the shipping process has damaged others that were either headed to him or back to the customer.


Maybe supply shipping instructions?

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3 hours ago, Crankysoldermeister said:


Maybe supply shipping instructions?

Per JEM: Shipping services today are extremely rough on the packages and getting a claim for damages settled is an experience you want to avoid at all cost.  Due to this situation, I am not offering installation service for the networks that contain circuit boards. 

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30 minutes ago, Crankysoldermeister said:

I would tell people to pack like the box is being dropped kicked across the country, which it will be. Wrap in large bubble wrap, and pack dead spaces so networks don’t shift - with more bubble wrap or newspaper. No peanuts. 

I am with you on this, but after getting his email I have resigned myself to doing it myself.  Just need to wait for the parts to be in stock again.

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10 hours ago, Crankysoldermeister said:

I would tell people to pack like the box is being dropped kicked across the country, which it will be. Wrap in large bubble wrap, and pack dead spaces so networks don’t shift - with more bubble wrap or newspaper. No peanuts. 

I got an H/K430 shipped to me. It was wrapped in a towel and put in a box full of peanuts... 😬 amazingly, it wasn't damaged and worked fine.

 

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On 1/9/2022 at 5:34 AM, Marvel said:

Presence is midrange, brilliance is the high end, tweeters.

Thanks, I know but had to be absolutely sure.

 

4 hours ago, Marvel said:

I got an H/K430 shipped to me. It was wrapped in a towel and put in a box full of peanuts... 😬 amazingly, it wasn't damaged and worked fine.

 

Peanuts work well is you have some.  Put them in a grocery bag about 2/3 full and tie it up.  Works great as you can shape the m around the item being shipped. 

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5 hours ago, Marvel said:

I got an H/K430 shipped to me. It was wrapped in a towel and put in a box full of peanuts... 😬 amazingly, it wasn't damaged and worked fine.

 

 I use moving blankets a lot of times when shipping really heavy items as you need good shock absorption-- problem with packing nuts and bubble wrap with heavy items is they flatten after a drop or two and as Dean has correctly pointed out they typically get dropped / kicked several times all the way across the country. Once there's a flat spot in the packing material it allows the item to shift in the box and with a weak spot in the packaging from previous drops that usually spells trouble. 

 

 

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On 1/7/2022 at 7:03 PM, Yankee Rebel said:

Thanks for the alternative idea Tiger! I will think about how to un-sandwich the sandwiched boards to possibly achieve the results I am looking for.  Not sure if Chorus II had the same sandwiched configuration as shown in the Chorus I photo.

1485683105_ChorusICrossover2.jpeg.010496842bfbf0956881827e1aa7bbe4.jpeg

I finished the Forte crossovers with the caps mounted on a board.  Posted pics in this thread.  I will do the Chorus next.

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
1 hour ago, Yankee Frank said:

Here is my first Chorus 1 re-capped crossover.  Let me know if you see anything that doesn't look right, before I put 'em in!

Chorus-1.jpg

 

Nice, looks like a solid oak board. 

 

Trace the circuit out and be sure it is correct.  I am wound too tight so I check every connection with an OHM meter as I am working.

 

Where did you get the bare wire for the negative jumpers on the barrier strip?  Please provide a part number if you have it.  On the JBL X overs that I did in the link above, I used 14 ga copper wire from some Romex that I had stripped and kept the run going, including bending some solder lugs in a few places.  But it would be nice to have a jumper for the barrier strip. 

 

 

I see that you could not find any solder lugs.  I am having the same problem.  The JBL X-overs that I did I used some lugs from Amazon, but they are way too small.  Came out sloppy when I tried to solder as I had to double them up to make the connections.  A real pain.  I need a source for some good solder lugs with decent sized holes.  Partsexpress doesn't seem to have any. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

 

Nice, looks like a solid oak board. 

 

Trace the circuit out and be sure it is correct.  I am wound too tight so I check every connection with an OHM meter as I am working.

 

Where did you get the bare wire for the negative jumpers on the barrier strip?  Please provide a part number if you have it.  On the JBL X overs that I did in the link above, I used 14 ga copper wire from some Romex that I had stripped and kept the run going, including bending some solder lugs in a few places.  But it would be nice to have a jumper for the barrier strip. 

 

 

I see that you could not find any solder lugs.  I am having the same problem.  The JBL X-overs that I did I used some lugs from Amazon, but they are way too small.  Came out sloppy when I tried to solder as I had to double them up to make the connections.  A real pain.  I need a source for some good solder lugs with decent sized holes.  Partsexpress doesn't seem to have any. 

 

 

Link for wire is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0975M7X3L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I (obviously) have a lot left over.  PM me your address and I will send you plenty to do yours and be happy to save you some $$.

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3 hours ago, Yankee Frank said:

Link for wire is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0975M7X3L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I (obviously) have a lot left over.  PM me your address and I will send you plenty to do yours and be happy to save you some $$.

I appreciate it, but my next crossovers are a little way out as I need to finish these speakers. 

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