tigerwoodKhorns Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 On 1/13/2022 at 10:03 AM, Thunderball said: I am replacing the binding posts. While inside the cabinet, I noticed lots of undamped space. I am tempted to add some 1/2" foam on the rear panel. But then again, I figure the panel was left uncovered for a reason. Has anyone added damping to a Cornwall IV, and if so, how did it turn out? Where did you add damping? What kind of material? So that is factory bracing inside of the CW IV? I am about to brace Fortes and Chorus speakers. The factory job seems minimal. I will keep this in mind. I was planning both directions and the corners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wstrickland1 Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 I had a binding post shear right off on a P 39. The sent me a new one but it was a beeotch to replace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sootshe Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 On 1/14/2022 at 6:33 PM, Thunderball said: They are not keyed into the plates and they spin before the speaker wires are tightened sufficiently (in my opinion). They are also too shallow to fully seat a banana plug. The post inside the cabinet looks to be about a number 6 or 8 machine screw size. I agree with you on the point of them not being keyed into the fitting plates, as this will definitely cause issues with them coming loose over time. Pretty sad to see this hasn't been addressed in a speaker of this calibre. Your 10 year warranty definitely won't cover the fact that they come loose, this is a bad engineering error, probably implemented by the bean counters. If you decide to leave them as is, don't use the bare wire connection, as this will definitely cause them to come loose. Stick with the banana plugs & just make sure they are a nice tight fit for the length they will extend into the plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sootshe Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 On 1/14/2022 at 7:53 PM, Dave A said: I would not do one thing to CW4's. Every problem the CW's had from CW1 to CW3 have been solved. ALL those old legacy problems have been fixed. Apart from the binding posts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
consistent Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 I was corresponding with Bob Crites some years ago on damping and sticking in bits of wood to strengthen the CW cabinet and ultimately his Cornscala. His research suggested there was not much of a difference electrically, graphically and using one's ears. I did my own testing when I built my Cornscala (two boxes/sizes) and the difference was negligible. Significant difference however comes with playing with the network! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 12 hours ago, sootshe said: I agree with you on the point of them not being keyed into the fitting plates, as this will definitely cause issues with them coming loose over time. Pretty sad to see this hasn't been addressed in a speaker of this calibre. Your 10 year warranty definitely won't cover the fact that they come loose, this is a bad engineering error, probably implemented by the bean counters. If you decide to leave them as is, don't use the bare wire connection, as this will definitely cause them to come loose. Stick with the banana plugs & just make sure they are a nice tight fit for the length they will extend into the plug. If these connectors will allow it I have migrated to fork crimp connectors for input hook ups. They have proven to not come loose on their own in my shop where frequent speaker changes would ruin banana plug connections. Bare wires and soldered bare wires have proven to be really bad about loosening on their own. You do your crimp right and tighten down on the fork connector and your problems are over. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 12 hours ago, sootshe said: Apart from the binding posts. I have no idea why attention would not be paid to this on a high end speaker. Especially when customers and posters bring it up and the price to fix is so cheap. It's like things get carved in stone for better or worse once released for sale. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khornukopia Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 Some random binding posts I have laying around. One style has flats and the other has splines, to prevent rotation when hand tightening or loosening. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 From PE today. If they are like every other binding post I have had they will not rotate unless you really crank down more then needed on them. \Gold Dual Binding Post Banana Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderball Posted April 15, 2022 Author Share Posted April 15, 2022 Thanks to an old friend with the right tools I think I have solved the issue. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted April 15, 2022 Share Posted April 15, 2022 what did you do ? did you notch the plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderball Posted April 16, 2022 Author Share Posted April 16, 2022 Had to enlarge the holes for the larger diameter posts and cut notches for the plastic key to fit thereby locking the post in place so it doesn’t turn when tightening the speaker wires to the post. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChattanoogaDon Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 (edited) Against the advice of many here I decided to add a few braces internally to my Cw IVs. I cut 12” 1x2” hardwood pieces with 45 degree ends and glued them from side to back as shown 4 per side and one from side to bottom. I just can’t stand that boom of a hollow door sound when I knock on the sides . Every other high end speaker I’ve owned has cabinets T least twice this thick and also a lot of internal bracing. If nothing else I strengthened the cabinet when I move them around etc. yes it’s a small volume decrease but I cross to a subwoofer at 80hz anyway so I am not using the bottom octave . Well the pics are too big I’ll resize and post Edited Wednesday at 11:18 PM by ChattanoogaDon Add pics 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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