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Additional damping for Cornwall IV


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On 1/13/2022 at 10:03 AM, Thunderball said:

I am replacing the binding posts.  While inside the cabinet, I noticed lots of undamped space.  I am tempted to add some 1/2" foam on the rear panel.  But then again, I figure the panel was left uncovered for a reason. Has anyone added damping to a Cornwall IV, and if so, how did it turn out?  Where did you add damping?  What kind of material?

 

Inside C IV.JPEG

So that is factory bracing inside of the CW IV? 

 

I am about to brace Fortes and Chorus speakers.  The factory job seems minimal.  I will keep this in mind.  I was planning both directions and the corners. 

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On 1/14/2022 at 6:33 PM, Thunderball said:

They are not keyed into the plates and they spin before the speaker wires are tightened sufficiently (in my opinion).  They are also too shallow to fully seat a banana plug.   The post inside the cabinet looks to be about a number 6 or 8 machine screw size.

5B8C9C12-8060-4A8E-AD7B-ABFA5F7A3C7E.jpeg

5D275797-F867-45A9-B2E6-AE46C83FA0F0.jpeg

 

I agree with you on the point of them not being keyed into the fitting plates, as this will definitely cause issues with them coming loose over time. 

Pretty sad to see this hasn't been addressed in a speaker of this calibre. Your 10 year warranty definitely won't cover the fact that they come loose, this is a bad engineering error, probably implemented by the bean counters. 

If you decide to leave them as is, don't use the bare wire connection, as this will definitely cause them to come loose. Stick with the banana plugs & just make sure they are a nice tight fit for the length they will extend into the plug.  

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On 1/14/2022 at 7:53 PM, Dave A said:

I would not do one thing to CW4's. Every problem the CW's had from CW1 to CW3 have been solved. ALL those old legacy problems have been fixed.

 

Apart from the binding posts.

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I was corresponding with Bob Crites some years ago on damping and sticking in bits of wood to strengthen the CW cabinet and ultimately his Cornscala. His research suggested there was not much of a difference electrically, graphically and using one's ears. I did my own testing when I built my Cornscala (two boxes/sizes) and the difference was negligible. Significant difference however comes with playing with the network!

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12 hours ago, sootshe said:

 

I agree with you on the point of them not being keyed into the fitting plates, as this will definitely cause issues with them coming loose over time. 

Pretty sad to see this hasn't been addressed in a speaker of this calibre. Your 10 year warranty definitely won't cover the fact that they come loose, this is a bad engineering error, probably implemented by the bean counters. 

If you decide to leave them as is, don't use the bare wire connection, as this will definitely cause them to come loose. Stick with the banana plugs & just make sure they are a nice tight fit for the length they will extend into the plug.  

If these connectors will allow it I have migrated to fork crimp connectors for input hook ups. They have proven to not come loose on their own in my shop where frequent speaker changes would ruin banana plug connections. Bare wires and soldered bare wires have proven to be really bad about loosening on their own. You do your crimp right and tighten down on the fork connector and your problems are over.

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12 hours ago, sootshe said:

 

Apart from the binding posts.

I have no idea why attention would not be paid to this on a high end speaker. Especially when customers and posters bring it up and the price to fix is so cheap. It's like things get carved in stone for better or worse once released for sale.

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  • 2 months later...
32 minutes ago, Thunderball said:

Thanks to an old friend with the right tools I think I have solved the issue.

 

what did you do ?   did you notch the plate

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