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Tangent T-500 vs T-5000


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18 hours ago, jjptkd said:

These were a bare bones budget speaker offered at discount prices it seems hard for me to believe that they would reengineer the cabinets between these two models while keeping the same exact dimensions and cut-outs. My guess is that the listed weight is probably wrong in one of the two speakers from what I can see. 

 

that makes sense to me.  & looking at the pics of the 5000s they look exactly like my 500s.  i will post some pics of them later today. 

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15 hours ago, Alexander said:

 

On a pair of T-5000's the motorboard had contact with the cabinets ~ 10-15%, only at the four mounting blocks. I resealed the entire cabinets and this made quite a noticeable difference in bass.

 

 

 

on these 500s all inner seams have a heavy coating of the hot glue klipsch used in other models of this era like KGs & KLFs, they are sealed & make full contact everywhere, no bracing just some ~2" long blocks of wood placed around the seams.  i hope they dont have bad glue or the loose front/rear boards that some KGs & many KLFs had.  

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40 minutes ago, EpicKlipschFan said:

 

on these 500s all inner seams have a heavy coating of the hot glue klipsch used in other models of this era like KGs & KLFs, they are sealed & make full contact everywhere, no bracing just some ~2" long blocks of wood placed around the seams.  i hope they dont have bad glue or the loose front/rear boards that some KGs & many KLFs had.  

 

You may have already done this but with a light source shine the light from the inside out to check. In my case there was an ample bead of glue applied on the motor board but it did not make contact with the cabinet walls. So I used the Gorilla original formula expanding glue on all seams since I was in there.

 

 

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21 hours ago, Alexander said:

 

You may have already done this but with a light source shine the light from the inside out to check. In my case there was an ample bead of glue applied on the motor board but it did not make contact with the cabinet walls. So I used the Gorilla original formula expanding glue on all seams since I was in there.

 

 

 

thanks, i will check with a light but they look very solid & the glue is applied very liberally, oozes out an inch or more on all seams.  ive used gorilla glue on a lot of speaker cabinets that were loose, KG,s subs & other brands, it works great but would require removing all the factory glue to work right.  it will be awhile until i hook these up to test them for rattles & working drivers but the glue looks very solid still & hopefull there are no cabinet issues.  

 

i have walnut forte2 & walnut chorus2 & really prefer the wood veneer cabinets over black, so unless these impress me more than forte/chours they wont be keepers & will be put up for sale after i check them out & clean them up.    

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pulled some drivers & got some pics to show the insides of the tangent 500s.  wood looks just like the pics of the 5000s but hard to see close details.  the glue is very thick & builds up & runs on the wood blocks.  no light shines through any of the seams or corners, they look as solid as any KG i have owned. 

 

woofers are a shiny coated fiber & crossovers are same parts as other models of this era. foam is just laid in there like others, i put them back with a little tape to hold.    

tangent4.jpg

tangent5.jpg

tangent3.jpg

tangent2.jpg

tangent.jpg

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one thing i noticed that was kind of a neat touch, is the screws for the woofers & passives are copper colored, they arent actually copper but more like the heads were painted with a thin faded copper color you can see in the woofer pics above. never saw that on any other klipsch of this era & its kind of a nice touch... wonder why klipsch would have done that on cheaper built military speakers?

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  • 1 year later...

That could very well be a zinc chromate coating on the screws. On some old equipment (steel/aluminum chassis, transformer frames, zcrews, bolts, etc). Highly toxic, prevents mold growth. It's used less now than it was in the past. DJK me tioned somewhare here in an older thread.

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Just because the glue is oozed out like that doesn’t mean it’s tight or going to hold.

The inside of my Tangent 10’s looked just like that and the entire side panel fell off one night while listening to Dire Straits, Down to the waterline.

 

The 10’s are a still one of the best $25 I’ve ever spent.

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