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Onkyo shuts off with Forte II speakers


Defacto

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39 minutes ago, mboxler said:

 

Even this doesn't seem correct to me.  Isn't the Forte II K-25 woofer 4 ohms?   I just read another post that said the DC resistance at the speaker terminals measured 4.3 ohms, which sounds right if you add in the DC resistance of the inductor.  He also noted that the impedance of the speaker drops below 4 ohms between 100 and 200hz.  That's a lot of current!

 

Might be interesting to remove the wires from the woofer and measure the DC resistance across the K-25 terminals.

That’s what I would do. You are correct. The dcr is around 4 ohms and mid and tweet won’t be measured because the cap in series will block them. 

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On 1/20/2022 at 9:01 PM, 314carpenter said:

This setting has got nothing to do with the nominal impedance of your speakers. In short, what a lower impedance setting of a consumer AVR generally does is engage a circuit that significantly limits the output voltage of the AVR. This is solely for the purposes of continuous multichannel high power heat dissipation testing by the electrical product certifiers. In other words, it's actual purpose has nothing to do with real-world usage. This setting is there so the manufacture can get a certifiate, nothing more. 

 

The Onkyo (and other AVR's) impedance setting should never be used, and only be kept at the default setting.

This is solid truth.

 

Bill

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11 hours ago, mboxler said:

 

Even this doesn't seem correct to me.  Isn't the Forte II K-25 woofer 4 ohms?   I just read another post that said the DC resistance at the speaker terminals measured 4.3 ohms, which sounds right if you add in the DC resistance of the inductor.  He also noted that the impedance of the speaker drops below 4 ohms between 100 and 200hz.  That's a lot of current!

 

Might be interesting to remove the wires from the woofer and measure the DC resistance across the K-25 terminals.

 

I did as suggested on both Forte II.  Each measured 3.7 ohms.

Edited by Defacto
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10 hours ago, captainbeefheart said:

Looks like there may be some small strands stuck on things, maybe there is one making an intermittent short.

 

Also make sure when putting the board back on there are none of the bare wires touching anything.

short.png

 

That's an photographic illusion.  :)  (It is far from the actual wire,) 

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On 1/20/2022 at 3:52 PM, Khornukopia said:

A couple questions. What speakers did you have connected before and how high could they play? Have you performed the AccuEQ set-up process?

Speakers in use are R26F.  I didn't finish the AccuEQ setup since the speakers aren't where they will be permanently placed yet. 

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If I missed answering any questions, I apologize, it wasn't intentional.  :)

 

ps: I found that my multimeter issue is actually the probe wires.  I unintentionally cut my probe wires so I bought cheap replacements on Aliexpress.  lol  The probe wires have resistance themselves!!  So until I get decent replacement probes, I am subtracting the probe wire resistance to do measurements.

Edited by Defacto
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34 minutes ago, ricktate said:

Just get new crossovers from Crites. Easy to do or get the kit and build it yourself. 

Or just mail in your stock crossovers for a rebuild usually about 1 week turn around and about half the price of new drop in replacements. Or if up to the task rebuild yourself here's a thread that might help:

 

 

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I've moved to the middle of nowhere with no help nearby Dave A.  :)  

 

I hear you on the tools and fully agree.  I'll have a new multimeter coming today.

 

I'm hoping for more diagnostic help atm.  If none is forthcoming, I will assume it is a crossover problem beyond my capabilities.  I have a Hakko solder station and have done enough with electronics to see that the soldering was poorly done when the caps were replaced on the Xover.

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4 minutes ago, mboxler said:

 

How did this test go?  

I was waiting to see if there were objections.  I'll do that today since there were none.  

 

If this is what it takes, I'll be sending them in:       :)

 

https://www.google.com/search?as_q=Klipsch+diagnose+crossover+&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&lr=&cr=&as_qdr=all&as_sitesearch=&as_occt=any&safe=images&as_filetype=&tbs=#kpvalbx=_eB_sYb_ZOb6yqtsP5vWLkA44

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50 minutes ago, Defacto said:

I was waiting to see if there were objections.  I'll do that today since there were none.  

 

If this is what it takes, I'll be sending them in:       :)

 

https://www.google.com/search?as_q=Klipsch+diagnose+crossover+&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&lr=&cr=&as_qdr=all&as_sitesearch=&as_occt=any&safe=images&as_filetype=&tbs=#kpvalbx=_eB_sYb_ZOb6yqtsP5vWLkA44

 

I'm sure your back will object, but if it were me, I would rule out as much as possible before doing anything.  I am curious, though.  When you say "volume at 80"  is that 80 out of 100 or -80db?

 

 

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Umm, that is 80/100 on the Onkyo amp. 

Seems to me that shouldn't shut the amp down under normal circumstances.

 

Trim level I do not recall seeing or setting?

 

I have no idea to to change from relative to absolute  volume either, sorry 

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