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Stripped threads on a K400 horn


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6 hours ago, babadono said:

I'm confused...build up with JB Weld? Let's not steer OP in wrong direction.

I agree-- the JB Weld was meant as a joke. I personally would probably try the tread tape to get by until a replacement horn is found.

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17 hours ago, gilligan said:

. After taking the driver out I confirmed the threads are indeed stripped.  If so we’re you able to fix it and how

 

 

10 hours ago, Toz said:

 build it up with weld and re-tap. 

@gilligan  , there is no need to replace the horn , welding ,  re -tapping is possible  - 

 

  

 

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Don't try to weld over the stripped threads.

That much heat could  destroy that end of the horn. 

 

I would bore that end out to 1.500 to 1.501,  make a sleeve with 1.500 od x  1-3/8-18 id and press it in using  sleeve adhesive. 

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The sleeve idea is a sound one, but could be more costly than buying a used replacement. That horn ain't getting mounted on a lathe easily, and is too tall for the average tool room mill.

As per my earlier post, it's kind of an involved repair. 

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The cost of a 1 3/8"-16 tap is $126.64. The fixturing to ensure correct engagement will take a lot of time to set up as a tap that large is ungainly to use by hand. And that assumes there's enough left to repair.  Not the method I'd pursue.

 

Were it mine and I wished to reuse existing parts here's my take. I'd clean threads very well both horn and driver. Using Loctite 272 generously (several drops around the threads of driver-DO NOT coat entire thread) then install driver into horn. Allow it to sit vertically (mouth of horn down) overnight. I'd used a new original type gasket as well. It will take  some effort to remove when/if time comes.

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Old mechanics trick. Stick a small diameter piece of wire over the horn threads and then start the driver. Should tighten up and work fine. All you need is a tight fit. Might need piece of wire on both sides of threads before starting driver. All above suggestions are just not practical with such a big diameter. If this does not work one needs a new horn. Machine shop repair is going to cost most more then a new horn.  

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20 hours ago, gilligan said:

Tried the plumbers tape and it didn’t help. I will try just screwing it in there. The face of the driver is pretty flat and so is the surface where the horn meets it so I’ll give it a shot.

 

2 hours ago, billybob said:

So, back to the plumbers teflon inexpensive white tape. Up to the OP to do it and done.

Cannot do it for but, can explain if even necessary.

Looks like it didn't work for him.

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Thank you to everyone who has given their input. A lot of good ideas here, but for now what I’ve done is just removed the gasket and applied plumber’s tape so that it seals air tight. I know someone mentioned that the gasket is essential, so eventually I will either get a new horn or repair it somehow at a machine shop. Just to reiterate: the driver will not hold if the 1/16” gasket is in place but holds if the gasket is removed, therefore the driver is being held in basically by one thread. Not a permanent solution but it will have to do for now. The mids do sound good, no discernible difference that I can observe without the gasket.

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A couple years ago here, one of the forum members posted a picture of her listening room. In it, an unused Klipsch midrange horn had been turned into a very respectable looking table lamp. If you get a new horn, consider repurposing the old one, or selling it in the garage sale area of the forum.

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13 hours ago, Davecv41 said:

A couple years ago here, one of the forum members posted a picture of her listening room. In it, an unused Klipsch midrange horn had been turned into a very respectable looking table lamp. If you get a new horn, consider repurposing the old one, or selling it in the garage sale area of the forum.

 

I think that was @dtel

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Is the driver a NPT thread? Or a straight thread? If you want to take a chance on one last try to repair here is an option. If the horn is a National Pipe Thread NPT yes cleaning it up and JB weld will work. Clean all the threads with alcohol then apply a thin coating of JB weld on the threads. The key part is it needs to be a thin coating since you're going to chase the threads once dry. A small local hardware store can help you rent or use a tap. Easy going in small turns in and back out over and over will rethread the horn. If you're unsure of thread type take driver into store and see if a pipe threads on easily. Pipe taps are tapered so the deeper you tap the larger the diameter it gets.

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Here's something I did in my automotive days yrs ago: apply a medium coat of JB Weld-type epoxy to the clean bad threads. Wrap a layer of Teflon tape ("Plumbers tape") around the threads of the bolt leaving NO exposed metal. Gently screw the bolt in while the epoxy is still WET. After 12-24 hrs unscrew the bolt and remove the Teflon tape, reinsert the bolt and 'listen to the music' !i!

 

Another option is using a TIME-SERT - which is far far stronger than a heli-coil.

Edited by ed babb
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15 hours ago, dtel said:

It was not my lamp, it was in PWK's livingroom, I just took the pic. But I do like it. 

jubefest 9 07 (8)-1.jpg

Eldon  , this horn Lamp must have had a very special  meaning   for  PWK  , since ,the  new klipsch copper Badge  conbined  both the  PWK  logo and  the klipsch script  for the very 1st time ,   and PWK Owned the PWK logo Personally  .

 

  We can also tell the age of the lamp  by the age of the klipsch Badge which is 1978-1979  .

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