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Stripped threads on a K400 horn


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I'm shocked with all of you.   :ph34r:

 

Though, I suppose you are leaving it to me to do the heavy lifting here.  The answer is quite simple.  Put the horn back in as is.....buy a pair of K402's and set them on top and forget about the K400's for the rest of your life.

 

Easy Peasy

 

Now...  let's wait for him to obtain them to spring the idea of an active crossover and an extra amp on him.  That is in the fine print part that nobody reads anyway.

 

 

 

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20 minutes ago, Coytee said:

I'm shocked with all of you.   :ph34r:

 

Though, I suppose you are leaving it to me to do the heavy lifting here.  The answer is quite simple.  Put the horn back in as is.....buy a pair of K402's and set them on top and forget about the K400's for the rest of your life.

 

Easy Peasy

 

Now...  let's wait for him to obtain them to spring the idea of an active crossover and an extra amp on him.  That is in the fine print part that nobody reads anyway.

 

 

 

And, here I was going to suggest something radical like Locktite. 😉

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1 hour ago, jason str said:

Does Klipsch offer a trade in replacement for problems like this ?

 

 

 

 

Unless they've changed policy....he has a serial number.  He should be able to call them.  Give them the serial number(s?) and buy a K401 and call it a day.  (I'm presuming the threads on his driver are fine)

 

I don't know if they're still doing this though I would expect so.  So the next question is, could he replace BOTH horns since only one is buggered up??  I have no clue.  I'd be calling them and get the C-card out and wait for replacement(s?) to arrive.

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2 hours ago, 001 said:

Eldon  , this horn Lamp must have had a very special  meaning   for  PWK  , since ,the  new klipsch copper Badge  conbined  both the  PWK  logo and  the klipsch script  for the very 1st time ,   and PWK Owned the PWK logo Personally  .

 

  We can also tell the age of the lamp  by the age of the klipsch Badge which is 1978-1979  .

I don't know how old it is, someone may have given it to PWK.

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Not only does the gasket provide an air tight seal and correct spacing between the driver and the horn; its inside diameter defines the design aperture for the throat.

 

If you are operating for a while without the gasket in place, your throat aperture is larger than design, which means the horn produces less output level, which means you might turn it up to compensate but find the horn's relative level keeps sounding attenuated.

 

Until you have a proper gasket in place with the right inner diameter, you might refrain from loud playing, and resist any loud testing or other exciting sonic experiments / investigations into why it might sound funny without the gasket. :)

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54 minutes ago, pauln said:

Not only does the gasket provide an air tight seal and correct spacing between the driver and the horn; its inside diameter defines the design aperture for the throat.

 

If you are operating for a while without the gasket in place, your throat aperture is larger than design, which means the horn produces less output level, which means you might turn it up to compensate but find the horn's relative level keeps sounding attenuated.

 

Until you have a proper gasket in place with the right inner diameter, you might refrain from loud playing, and resist any loud testing or other exciting sonic experiments / investigations into why it might sound funny without the gasket. :)

That’s really good to know. Thank you, Pauln. It’s amazing how a little 1/16” gasket plays such a big role in the overall function of the horn. 

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On 2/1/2022 at 7:25 AM, henry4841 said:

Old mechanics trick. Stick a small diameter piece of wire over the horn threads and then start the driver. Should tighten up and work fine. All you need is a tight fit. Might need piece of wire on both sides of threads before starting driver. All above suggestions are just not practical with such a big diameter. If this does not work one needs a new horn. Machine shop repair is going to cost most more then a new horn.  

I tried this and guess what? It worked!!!! Thanks Henry4841! That driver is sitting in there snug as as snug gets! 

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4 hours ago, pauln said:

Until you have a proper gasket in place with the right inner diameter...

And what is that diameter? The old cast horns are all over the map, too. What diameter compared to the horn exit diameter?

 

I couln't tell a sonic difference at all, but then again, I'm probably going deaf.

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6 minutes ago, Marvel said:

I couln't tell a sonic difference at all, but then again, I'm probably going deaf.

And what would PWK say...it won't make a dimes worth of difference. When my original orange ones dry out I make my own with/from a back rubber sheet. Maybe I'm deaf too:)

All I know is replacing the K400 horn with a wooden tractrix is a difference you CAN hear.

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