CF-4 v.1 Crossover repair?

[Maximus89]

I've got a loose rear baffle that was held together with clamps. Both speakers. I'm just now getting around to a little project of titebond II for the rear baffle and then add a bit of bracing. In doing so, i just discovered my crossover looking like this with one of the red parts hanging and loose to the touch. Yet, my speaker was working.  What's up with this?

 

Any experienced volunteers for repair and recap? I know the Klipsch approved crossover guy wouldn't work on the CF-4, so what are my options? I'd rather come to you guys first instead of a local repair tech i've never met. He's expensive and slow, but heard he's good.

 

I have backup CF-3 v.1 so i can ship the crossovers to a forum member with enough free time to make a little money

PM me if you don't want Roy to see you volunteer to molest his first child, maybe it'll come back with a case of the mumps...

[HiFi Heaven]

Looks simple - just reheat the solder under the board while you stuff the flying L3 lead back where it belongs.  Grip the wire with a hemostat or needle nose pliers w/rubber bands to avoud blisters on your fingers!  Then reflow the PC board with fresh solder.

 

[OO1]

1 hour ago, Maximus89 said:

 I know the Klipsch approved crossover guy wouldn't work on the CF-4,

 

I would  call JEM or PM @JEM Performance to ask him if he can do the work for you .

 

  as is ,  the crossover can be repaired with a hot glue gun ,  and a Soldering iron -

[Maximus89]

Looks simple - just reheat the solder under the board while you stuff the flying L3 lead back where it belongs.  Grip the wire with a hemostat or needle nose pliers w/rubber bands to avoud blisters on your fingers!  Then reflow the PC board with fresh solder.
 

No soldering experience here. Rather pay someone than learn

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[Maximus89]

I would  call JEM or PM [mention=78875]JEM Performance[/mention] to ask him if he can do the work for you .
 
  as is ,  the crossover can be repaired with a hot glue gun ,  and a Soldering iron -

I did way back when and they wouldn't work on the cf4

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[OO1]

4 hours ago, Maximus89 said:

No soldering experience here. Rather pay someone than learn

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reach out to @captainbeefheart   or @henry4841

[Deang]

13 hours ago, Maximus89 said:

I know the Klipsch approved crossover guy wouldn't work on the CF-4

 

What do they work on? People are telling me they won't let anyone ship anything to them.

 

If you're willing to pay and want decent turn around time, you should contact Michael Crites. If you get in a jam, you can also PM me if you want them rebuilt.

 

Deang

[avguytx]

Me personally, I'd leave the stock poly caps as they are on those and replace the electrolytics with some polyester caps and call it good.  That's what was done recently on my CF-3 v1's, per Roy's suggestion, and they sound just fine.  As the Chief says, it's all about the voltage transfer curve on the crossover as a whole.

 

As far as that back panel goes, knock that joker out of there and re-attach it back in. 

 

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/159405-klipsch-epic-owners-group/&do=findComment&comment=2673811

 

But, regardless, I'd be glad to help out.  I can wield my Hakko soldering iron no problem.  lol

[Deang]

 

I forgot those had the rebranded Bennics. So, yeah, they just need to be looked at by someone to make sure they aren't rattling apart or have burnt up resistors, etc. 

 

1 hour ago, avguytx said:

... replace the electrolytics with some polyester caps and call it good ... per Roy's suggestion ... As the Chief says, it's all about the voltage transfer curve on the crossover as a whole.

 

@Chief boneheadWouldn't swapping electrolytics with polyesters also "change" the transfer function?

 

Any change impacts the transfer function, but do minute changes actually translate to significant changes in frequency response?

 

Looking for 3 cents.

 

[001]

if those arent the common mylar type caps, the "klipsch approved guys" mylar caps wont be the correct type. 

 

from what crites has stated, changing the electrolytic caps in the woofer circuit to poly caps will not make any audible improvement since the lytic caps arent in the mid/tweet section.  some say otherwise but hard to say how much of their perceived improvement is placebo effect.  i would just replace the lytics & see how the speakers sound & go from there. plus a poly cap in that 40uf value will be HUGE & hard to place on the boards. 

[Maximus89]

 
What do they work on? People are telling me they won't let anyone ship anything to them.
 
If you're willing to pay and want decent turn around time, you should contact Michael Crites. If you get in a jam, you can also PM me if you want them rebuilt.
 
Deang

Dean! You're the first person I looked for but couldn't find you. I like the new name! I'm already familiar with your work on my klipschorns so ill send you a PM here soon

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[mboxler]

2 hours ago, Crankysoldermeister said:

 

Wouldn't swapping electrolytics with polyesters also "change" the transfer function?

 

Any change impacts the transfer function, but do minute changes actually translate to significant changes in frequency response?

 

Looking for 3 cents.

 

 

Apologies to the OP, but Dean made me do it!

 

I realize I don't have the most sophisticated equipment,  but here are my findings. 

This is the transfer function of a 4.1mh inductor with a 6 ohm resistor load.  A capacitor is across the resistor to create a 2nd order filter.

 

The blue plot is a 33uf electrolytic that measure 29.9uf and .44 ohm ESR.  

The red plot is a 30uf Solen polypropylene  (I don't have a polyester) that measures 30.25uf and .01 ohm ESR.

 

It's hard to see, but the max difference is around .3db.  Not sure how audible this would be.

 

[Chief bonehead]

8 hours ago, Crankysoldermeister said:

 

I forgot those had the rebranded Bennics. So, yeah, they just need to be looked at by someone to make sure they aren't rattling apart or have burnt up resistors, etc. 

 

 

@Chief boneheadWouldn't swapping electrolytics with polyesters also "change" the transfer function?

 

Any change impacts the transfer function, but do minute changes actually translate to significant changes in frequency response?

 

Looking for 3 cents.

 

The key is keeping the voltage transfer curve the same. I have done curves on electrolytic to polyesters and if the caps are in parallel with the driver, it will have little to no effect on the voltage transfer curve……60 cent. 

[Chief bonehead]

9 hours ago, Crankysoldermeister said:

 

What do they work on? People are telling me they won't let anyone ship anything to them.

 

If you're willing to pay and want decent turn around time, you should contact Michael Crites. If you get in a jam, you can also PM me if you want them rebuilt.

 

Deang

I would recommend 60 cent….