Jump to content

speaker connections


Moh
 Share

Recommended Posts

Klipsch RP5000F have 4 binding post (top 2 and bottom 2). Does it make even subtle difference in sound if you attach speaker wire to top or bottom two posts?

Is there a trick to removing the small caps on the binding post. They cover the opening where banana plugs go. I have broken my finger nail trying to pry it out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, Moh said:

Klipsch RP5000F have 4 binding post (top 2 and bottom 2). Does it make even subtle difference in sound if you attach speaker wire to top or bottom two posts?

Is there a trick to removing the small caps on the binding post. They cover the opening where banana plugs go. I have broken my finger nail trying to pry it out.

Won't make a difference. I find a mini flat blade screwdriver is the way to pop the caps. Sometimes a box cutter blade.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, Moh said:

Klipsch RP5000F have 4 binding post (top 2 and bottom 2). Does it make even subtle difference in sound if you attach speaker wire to top or bottom two posts?

Is there a trick to removing the small caps on the binding post. They cover the opening where banana plugs go. I have broken my finger nail trying to pry it out.

 

I know of only one company that recommends clearly to connect the wires at the top of the tweeter. This is Tannoy with the Prestige series of expensive Alnico Tannoys. I have such a Canterbury and I can confirm this recommendation. The sound is a bit more transparent. With all other speakers I know, it is advantageous to use the lower connections that go to the bass speaker. The sound is more homogeneous and powerful and rounder to my ears. Another tip. I don't think much of replacing the metal bridges with overpriced cable branches. But what is very worthwhile is to tighten the screws of the connections on the metal bridges very firmly. I use combination pliers but I use them with a lot of feeling, just don't overtighten and break anything. But the best connection is to have a little more force than your fingers can do, as I said very carefully. The reason for this is to avoid micro-vibrations, which have the effect of a somewhat brittle, grainy sound.

That's what I would do first. And then, if I were you, I would just listen to whether it makes a difference whether you connect at the top or at the bottom, not over 10 minutes but over several days. Subtle differences can, paradoxically, sometimes unconsciously be very decisive in whether you like the sound or not so much, and this is often only noticed over a longer period of time. Often not directly in the sound impression but e.g. in your own behaviour...do you feel like listening to another piece of music or not, do you listen or read on the iPad?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a set of speakers with banana plug hole covers I could not get out from the top.  I think they were pushed into too far to grab the edge.  So, I made this tool out of a sturdy paper clip and used it to push them out from the back through the bare wire hole in the post.

PXL_20220319_224847565_resized.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks.I will try this. The top part  has broken off while the shaft is still inside. I was thinking of using a drill to break down the shaft but the tool you have made may work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/20/2022 at 5:23 AM, Shakeydeal said:

You definitely should replace the metal bridges with wire jumpers of whatever quality you feel comfortable with.

Is there a reason why wire jumpers would be superior to the metal bridges? Serious question. I've heard this before and wondered why one would be better than the other.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, CWelsh said:

Is there a reason why wire jumpers would be superior to the metal bridges?

 

Unlikely that wire would be better than bridge in this application. The bridge offers greater contact area for the binding posts, and the potential for greater cross-sectional area, too.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, Shakeydeal said:

The metal plates are usually gold plated brass. Copper is a better conductor than brass.

 

Granted.

 

Assume a 1mm x 5mm cross-section for the bridge, 50mm (2 inches) long. That's 5mm² cross-section, roughly equivalent to 10ga wire.

 

Brass has a resistivity of 4.7e-8 Ωm,  so working the math, the bridge will have a resistance of 0.00050 Ω.

 

Copper has a resistivity of 1.7e-8 Ωm, so the 10ga wire will have a resistance of 0.00018 Ω.

 

As PWK would say, "Not a dime's worth of difference."

 

Add to that the better contact area of the bridge, and that 0.00032 Ω difference might very well be erased completely.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

44 minutes ago, Edgar said:

 

Granted.

 

Assume a 1mm x 5mm cross-section for the bridge, 50mm (2 inches) long. That's 5mm² cross-section, roughly equivalent to 10ga wire.

 

Brass has a resistivity of 4.7e-8 Ωm,  so working the math, the bridge will have a resistance of 0.00050 Ω.

 

Copper has a resistivity of 1.7e-8 Ωm, so the 10ga wire will have a resistance of 0.00018 Ω.

 

As PWK would say, "Not a dime's worth of difference."

 

Add to that the better contact area of the bridge, and that 0.00032 Ω difference might very well be erased completely.

 

  But as cheap as 8 inches of wire is, why not just do it anyway? I'll further stir the pot and say that I have heard a difference when replacing the brass plates. 😱

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Shakeydeal said:

 

  But as cheap as 8 inches of wire is, why not just do it anyway?

 

Not a dime's worth of difference. Do what works for you.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote

Not a dime's worth of difference.

 

Maybe not when you do the math. But here's a novel idea. Maybe we should listen and determine what's best? Imagine that. Actually listening involved in a hobby that is centered around listening...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/19/2022 at 6:58 PM, MMurg said:

I had a set of speakers with banana plug hole covers I could not get out from the top.  I think they were pushed into too far to grab the edge.  So, I made this tool out of a sturdy paper clip and used it to push them out from the back through the bare wire hole in the post.

 

agree 100%

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/20/2022 at 1:48 AM, Moh said:

Thanks.I will try this. The top part  has broken off while the shaft is still inside. I was thinking of using a drill to break down the shaft but the tool you have made may work.

all you need is a small hook  or a big sewing needle, to poke into the plastic/rubber that 's stuck inside , and pull t out ,  @MMurg  also gave you the trick to poke through the speaker wire hole with the end of a paper clip and that will drive  whatever is stuck   right out the top of the binding post  .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Shakeydeal said:
2 hours ago, Edgar said:

 

Granted.

 

Assume a 1mm x 5mm cross-section for the bridge, 50mm (2 inches) long. That's 5mm² cross-section, roughly equivalent to 10ga wire.

 

Brass has a resistivity of 4.7e-8 Ωm,  so working the math, the bridge will have a resistance of 0.00050 Ω.

 

Copper has a resistivity of 1.7e-8 Ωm, so the 10ga wire will have a resistance of 0.00018 Ω.

 

As PWK would say, "Not a dime's worth of difference."

 

Add to that the better contact area of the bridge, and that 0.00032 Ω difference might very well be erased completely.

Expand  

 

  But as cheap as 8 inches of wire is, why not just do it anyway? I'll further stir the pot and say that I have heard a difference when replacing the brass plates. 😱

 

Gold actually has a higher resistance than copper, but it won't tarnish as much.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Shakeydeal said:

 

Maybe not when you do the math. But here's a novel idea. Maybe we should listen and determine what's best? Imagine that. Actually listening involved in a hobby that is centered around listening...

And pyschoacoustics:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, michaelwjones said:

Whatever you do, please don't bugger up your terminals with pliers, etc. AudioQuest makes a terminal wrench so you can hand tighten "just so" without damage.

AQ wrench.jpg

Ain't that just a nutdriver?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...