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KP-250 from early 1993


Alex G

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I bought a pair of KP-250 from a sound and lighting company (Klipsch Dealer) late 1992. This dealer was a friend and he said he could get them built in wood cabinets with capability to mount on a speaker stand. They were dropped shipped to me on 02/08/1993 from Hope, Arkansas since I lived in Hawaii at the time (I still have the original shipping boxes with the Klipsch shipping labels).

The serial numbers are: 353298053 and 353298054 (Attached are pics of the front and back plate)

I emailed Klipsch Support 10 days ago asking for specs and information on components but I haven't gotten a reply yet.

Can you help?

Thank you

Alex

#353298053_back+serial_sm.jpg

#353298053_speaker+horns_sm.jpg

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5 hours ago, Alex G said:

I bought a pair of KP-250

I emailed Klipsch Support 10 days ago asking for specs and information on components but I haven't gotten a reply yet.

Can you help?

Thank you

Alex

 

 

k-79 tweeter, k-53 mid driver and k-42 woofer Freq response 70hz-20khz? Max output 125db. Sorry, pulling from memory I know the driver details are correct. 

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2 hours ago, RandyH said:

 there were 3  series of the KP-250

 

  1st series started in 1989  and were the best overall , extremely musical ,

 2nd series 2001 to 2004 , and  3rd series KP-250 II

 

Thanks so much for your very valuable information. I really appreciate it.

Were the components in the pre-2001 series the same as the 2001-2004 series?

Alex

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41 minutes ago, Alex G said:

Thanks so much for your very valuable information. I really appreciate it.

Were the components in the pre-2001 series the same as the 2001-2004 series?

Alex

 

I'm not exactly sure on the dates but all of the original KP-250's shared the same components as their predecessor the HIP-2. The KP-250-II utilizes tractrix horns for the tweeter and mids with a 2" mid driver. 

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On 4/9/2022 at 6:23 PM, Alex G said:

 

 

Thanks so much for your very valuable information. I really appreciate it.

Were the components in the pre-2001 series the same as the 2001-2004 series?

Alex

yes  

 

 

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7 hours ago, wuzzzer said:

The guide in the 2 channel section says FO stands for fir oiled, but from the small amount I can see in the pics you posted it looks like oak.  I'm no veneer expert but any means, though.

 

It's not FO (oh); it's F0 (zero).

Any thoughts?

Alex

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  • 10 months later...

Good Day
Just got off the phone with Klipsch. 
I have a pair of KP-250-A
Serial# 004392568
Professional Speakers.
One has no audio coming out and has a missing fuse & fuse holder (Non-working speaker doesn't have fuse & fuse holder must have fallen out). Tried feeding signal from working speaker & putting fuse from working speaker in non working speaker. Unfortunately there was no change (no audio). They have been stored indoors for awhile and haven’t been used. There Appears to be some kind of corrosion on black/red terminals. Thoughts? I have never had these speakers totally not work for any reason. Can crossover still be purchased & does it have a part#? Would appreciate any input that can be provided. BTW: I have new old stock of the tweeter, midrange & woofer. 
Thanks
Jeffrey 

Edited by Jeffreycb
Better wording
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/27/2023 at 2:16 PM, Jeffreycb said:

Good Day
Just got off the phone with Klipsch. 
I have a pair of KP-250-A
Serial# 004392568
Professional Speakers.
One has no audio coming out and has a missing fuse & fuse holder (Non-working speaker doesn't have fuse & fuse holder must have fallen out). Tried feeding signal from working speaker & putting fuse from working speaker in non working speaker. Unfortunately there was no change (no audio). They have been stored indoors for awhile and haven’t been used. There Appears to be some kind of corrosion on black/red terminals. Thoughts? I have never had these speakers totally not work for any reason. Can crossover still be purchased & does it have a part#? Would appreciate any input that can be provided. BTW: I have new old stock of the tweeter, midrange & woofer. 
Thanks
Jeffrey 

swap the crossover of the working speaker in place of the unit in the non-working speaker , and  you'll be able to tell  if any of the   3 drivers  are in working order or not  

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