Jump to content

Did I hurt my choruse's?


Recommended Posts

Hello and thanks for reading, I recently picked up a set of 1 owner chorus's in their original boxes! I'm running a denon

dra-800h. I'm worried I have pushed them to hard as I'm getting a muddle sound at high volumes.  Where do I start? 

Please try to be patient with me as I'm a noob! Lol

20220522_190844.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

First, what type of wattage are you putting into them?  What do you consider loud?  I run forte II- and less than 10-watts input will drive you from the room. I run an Adcom GFA 5802 which is 300 per channel into 8 OHMS.  However, the first 30 or so watts runs true Class A, after that it runs in A/B mode.

 

If at normal or slightly above, and you here these sounds, then I would check the voltage on all drivers as well as the diaphragms on the squawker and tweeter.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that denon is only 100wpc, the power itself is not enough to hurt chorus that have peak power of ~1000watts.  however, pushing any amp to hard can cause clipping/distortion that can damage speakers.  chances are you are hearing the amp hit its max ability & the sound falls apart at higher volumes but would need a better description of whats happening than "a muddle sound"

 

you can check the drivers for ohm readings, not voltage, by pulling them from the cabinet & unhooking the wires.  a simple multi meter or ohm meter will show if tehy are out of spec.  myself or others can post the ohm ratings for each driver if you want to check them.  are these chorus or chorus2?  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, EpicKlipschFan said:

that denon is only 100wpc, the power itself is not enough to hurt chorus that have peak power of ~1000watts.  however, pushing any amp to hard can cause clipping/distortion that can damage speakers.  chances are you are hearing the amp hit its max ability & the sound falls apart at higher volumes but would need a better description of whats happening than "a muddle sound"

 

you can check the drivers for ohm readings, not voltage, by pulling them from the cabinet & unhooking the wires.  a simple multi meter or ohm meter will show if tehy are out of spec.  myself or others can post the ohm ratings for each driver if you want to check them.  are these chorus or chorus2?  

 

 

Unless you are listening with ear protection, why on earth would you need more than 20 REAL Watts going into that pair?  Peak power INMHO is not driving the speakers at or beyond the specs for an extended period of time, and 20 WATTS of real power will bring the Chorus to peak decibel output.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Fatkid70   You can start by  checking the wiring connections to the Amplifier and to  the binding posts of the speakers , take out the cabling  , check the ends  , and re-plug correctly

 

......  is the Muddle sound still prevalent  , no ?  great  , if yes , , does it come from the tweeter ? ...the midrange  ?......or the woofer ?     woofer is 4 Ohms - Tweeter is 8 Ohms  -Midrange is 16 Ohms 

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, John Chi-town said:

 

Unless you are listening with ear protection, why on earth would you need more than 20 REAL Watts going into that pair?  Peak power INMHO is not driving the speakers at or beyond the specs for an extended period of time, and 20 WATTS of real power will bring the Chorus to peak decibel output.

 

chorus handle a ton of power, the benefit of more power isnt just DB increase,  having some reserve power or headroom means the amp isnt working as hard & may provide stronger bass & better sound overall at any given DB level.  & will make it "easier" to drive the speaker harder or to higher volume levels.  so for power hungry speakers like the chorus, or big klf's & epics etc, a bigger amp, of decent quality, will usually have better performance compared to the same quality lower power amp.    also i recall seeing a chart or someone quoting a PWK article showing what the DB of a speaker does with a certain watt, speakers are rated at a specific db for a certain distance...  there are variables for DB vs watts,  when you are further away than that spec you need more power to reach the same DB,  same with a bigger room.     

 

my point was that if hes listening at high volumes as he described, a 100watt receiver that is usually not as good of quality power as a separate amp of the same watts, can easily get distorted &/or lose bass/sound quality.  a mid-fi at best 100watt per channel receiver can & will usually "muddle" the sound or lose bass performance at even moderate volumes,  no ear protection required to tell the difference. 

 

i run onkyo receivers at ~100wpc for home theater or non critical 2channel use,  compared to even a 165wpc onkyo M-504 separate amp, the sound difference at any volume is very noticeable... the 200wpc separate adcom or rotel amps are a night & day difference over the 100w receiver.      

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

I love this place.  The OP has been gone for over one month and he is still getting advice. 

 

many time newbies disappear after a couple posts...  but the OP has logged in on 6/13 so only about 2 weeks since he checked in.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, 001 said:

     woofer is 4 Ohms - Tweeter is 8 Ohms  -Midrange is 16 Ohms 

 

ohm readings i get on my chorus 2 & forte 2 are 8.7 tweet & 11.5 mid, have read others post within .1-.2 of those numbers too.  never seen 16ohms on the chorus/forte mid. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, EpicKlipschFan said:

 

chorus handle a ton of power, the benefit of more power isnt just DB increase,  having some reserve power or headroom means the amp isnt working as hard & may provide stronger bass & better sound overall at any given DB level.  & will make it "easier" to drive the speaker harder or to higher volume levels.  so for power hungry speakers like the chorus, or big klf's & epics etc, a bigger amp, of decent quality, will usually have better performance compared to the same quality lower power amp.    also i recall seeing a chart or someone quoting a PWK article showing what the DB of a speaker does with a certain watt, speakers are rated at a specific db for a certain distance...  there are variables for DB vs watts,  when you are further away than that spec you need more power to reach the same DB,  same with a bigger room.     

 

my point was that if hes listening at high volumes as he described, a 100watt receiver that is usually not as good of quality power as a separate amp of the same watts, can easily get distorted &/or lose bass/sound quality.  a mid-fi at best 100watt per channel receiver can & will usually "muddle" the sound or lose bass performance at even moderate volumes,  no ear protection required to tell the difference. 

 

i run onkyo receivers at ~100wpc for home theater or non critical 2channel use,  compared to even a 165wpc onkyo M-504 separate amp, the sound difference at any volume is very noticeable... the 200wpc separate adcom or rotel amps are a night & day difference over the 100w receiver.      

 

 

I completely agree with your assessment.  Which is why I run an ADCOM 5802 which is 300 watts per channel into 8 OHMS. The first 25 or so in Class A, after that runs A/B.  Apparently, the OP is driving his receiver to the limit.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, John Chi-town said:

I completely agree with your assessment.  Which is why I run an ADCOM 5802 which is 300 watts per channel into 8 OHMS. The first 25 or so in Class A, after that runs A/B.  Apparently, the OP is driving his receiver to the limit.

 

im a long time adcom fan, have owned over 10 GFA555ii amps.  i used to run my chorus 2 & some other dual 12" woofer speakers on 2 bridged 555s at like 600watts each,  obviously never used all that power but in a large open room for parties or just wanting to recreate big rock band concert volumes they did the trick with tons of reserve power, never even flickered the clipping lights in bridged or single stereo mode.   id like to try the 5000 series mosfet adcoms, wasnt aware they offered class A operation, bet it sounds great!  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, EpicKlipschFan said:

 

im a long time adcom fan, have owned over 10 GFA555ii amps.  i used to run my chorus 2 & some other dual 12" woofer speakers on 2 bridged 555s at like 600watts each,  obviously never used all that power but in a large open room for parties or just wanting to recreate big rock band concert volumes they did the trick with tons of reserve power, never even flickered the clipping lights in bridged or single stereo mode.   id like to try the 5000 series mosfet adcoms, wasnt aware they offered class A operation, bet it sounds great!  

It does.  I also have the matching GFP 750 PRE, also CLASS A as well as the GCD 750 1-disc player.  Over the last 30 years I have owned many and only ADCOM products.  The MOSFET designs INMHO are the most refined with plenty of deep end.  Please reference attached link, which provides spec's on the GFA 5802

 

Adcom GFA-5802 (interport.net)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, John Chi-town said:

It does.  I also have the matching GFP 750 PRE, also CLASS A as well as the GCD 750 1-disc player.  Over the last 30 years I have owned many and only ADCOM products.  The MOSFET designs INMHO are the most refined with plenty of deep end.  Please reference attached link, which provides spec's on the GFA 5802

 

Adcom GFA-5802 (interport.net)

I ran the 5800 for a time, really liked the sound even a bit better than my Sunfire-- always wanted to try the 5802 but never got the chance. The 5500 and 5503 sound pretty good as well but remember being able to hit the distortion lights pretty easily with the Chorus II's.. not that it ever really stopped me! 🤣

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, John Chi-town said:

It does.  I also have the matching GFP 750 PRE, also CLASS A as well as the GCD 750 1-disc player.  Over the last 30 years I have owned many and only ADCOM products.  The MOSFET designs INMHO are the most refined with plenty of deep end.  Please reference attached link, which provides spec's on the GFA 5802

 

Adcom GFA-5802 (interport.net)

 

that GTP750 is a awesome pre, would like to get one someday if the prices ever come down a bit.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...