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Disassembling a Belle Klipsch


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13 minutes ago, HPower said:

I would run an Orbital sander over the old glue and then your new gasket tape should stick, nice and flat.

 

 

 

 

Thanks.  I don't own an orbital sander but I do have a sanding block and some paper.  I'll give that a try. 

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Thanks everyone for all the help.  I don't own an orbital sander, but with my hand sanding tool and a little elbow grease I was able to get the glue off.  Now I finally have the Belle completely disassembled except for the woofer, which I don't need to remove for the finish treatment.  Got all my fasteners organized in OCD fashion and numbered the grills left to right.  Also marked the front of the hatch and riser in a hidden spot.  The rest of the parts didn't need any marking to know how they go back together.  I'll finish up the treatment tomorrow.  Then I'll have to decide what I'm going to do about the machine screws with the inaccessible heads.  🙂  Thanks again.

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8 hours ago, MMurg said:

 

Thanks.  I don't own an orbital sander but I do have a sanding block and some paper.  I'll give that a try. 

Dang good excuse to get one:)

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12 hours ago, babadono said:

And my tung oil suggestion would have done the same as the Trade Secret.

 

I'm sure.  However, I wanted to start with the lowest risk/hassle method first.  If this stuff didn't work acceptably, that would probably be the next thing I would have tried.

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Another dumb question.  Klipsch put a few small staples into the doghouse hatch gasket tape.  Do you think I need to bother doing that?  These are the smallest staples I have on hand.

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19 hours ago, MMurg said:

Now I finally have the Belle completely disassembled except for the woofer, which I don't need to remove for the finish treatment.

If and when you remove the cover to the doghouse, take note of the 2 screws that are longer than the others. If you insert them into the wrong holes, they will pierce the veneer on the bottom. (Don't ask me how I know) ☹️

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39 minutes ago, TasDom said:

If and when you remove the cover to the doghouse, take note of the 2 screws that are longer than the others. If you insert them into the wrong holes, they will pierce the veneer on the bottom. (Don't ask me how I know) ☹️

 

Thanks for the warning!  I removed the cover already and didn't notice the different screw lengths.  I just checked my set of screws.  There are two cover screws that are shorter than the rest.  Thanks to your warning, I figured out which cover holes are under the veneer.  I'll be sure to mark those holes on the cover before I put the screws back in.

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2 hours ago, TasDom said:

If and when you remove the cover to the doghouse, take note of the 2 screws that are longer than the others. If you insert them into the wrong holes, they will pierce the veneer on the bottom. (Don't ask me how I know) ☹️

 

As I was applying the scratch remover, I noticed what appears to be a plug right about where the cover screw would come through.  It looks like a previous owner made that same mistake on this Belle.  LOL.

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On 7/29/2022 at 1:52 PM, MMurg said:

I tried some of the Trade Secret scratch remover ,   I'm very pleased with the results so far.  

I am very happy to hear that .

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8 minutes ago, OO1 said:

I am very happy to hear that .

 

Yes, thanks for the suggestion.  I got the big bottles because I wasn't sure how much it would take to do the speaker.  I did the whole speaker, and it seems I hardly used any.  The level only went down just past the neck of the bottle.  I'm going to try this next on the 30-year-old Ikea pine table in my breakfast nook.

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I found a solution to tightening the machine screws with the inaccessible heads in some forum on the internet.  It was quite simple, and I didn't have to modify the speaker at all.  I replaced the machine screws with ones that were a half inch longer.  Then I just added a flat washer and lock washer under the nut.  After screwing the nut down onto the lock washer and everything started spinning, I pulled up on the side panel enough to put pressure on the lock washer, hand tightened enough to start engaging the lock washer, and then just used the socket to finish tightening.  The tension from the lock washer was enough to keep the screw from spinning.  It also works well for removal.  (I know this because I was almost finished reassembling the top-hat when I realized I forgot to fish the woofer cable through the hole on the bottom of the top-hat.  Grrrr.)

Now that the speaker is reassembled, it almost looks like new.  Thanks again for all the help.

 

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15 hours ago, MMurg said:

I found a solution to tightening the machine screws with the inaccessible heads in some forum on the internet.   Grrrr.)
 

 

 

 

you couldn't fit a 1/4 drive deep well socket with a universal joint in that space?

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17 minutes ago, Schu said:

WOW... super impressive.

 

did you test fit the 402 yet?

 

are you planning on making a new base for the 402 that fits the belle top?

 

I'm not doing a 402 for the HF for the Belle.  I may put a TV on top of it, so I want to keep it as close to the original height as possible.  So, I'm trying the ZXPC 18"x10" horn that a bunch of people on the Forum have used.  I have someone lined up to make a taller motorboard/side panels for the top-hat to accommodate that horn.

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21 minutes ago, Schu said:

you couldn't fit a 1/4 drive deep well socket with a universal joint in that space?

 

I did use a socket to do the final tightening.  The initial problem was that the machine screw and nut would just spin when trying to tighten it since the to head is not accessible the way they put this together.

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5 hours ago, MMurg said:

 

I'm not doing a 402 for the HF for the Belle.  I may put a TV on top of it, so I want to keep it as close to the original height as possible.  So, I'm trying the ZXPC 18"x10" horn that a bunch of people on the Forum have used.  I have someone lined up to make a taller motorboard/side panels for the top-hat to accommodate that horn.

I’ve got the same thing going on with my Belle and Khorns at the moment. The Belle is a center channel with a TV on top, and it sounds better, IMHO, with the ZXPC 18x10 and a D2200Ph driver. I’ve decided to build the horn into the Belle, but haven’t finalized a plan yet. Are you going to put the tweeter into the motorboard, or on top of the top hat? I’m still listening and evaluating the new sound of the Khorns. I pulled the old motorboard out, slid the D2200Ph and 18x10 in the hole, and put the tweeter temporarily on top. Please update us with some pictures of the new motorboard and side panels when you get them installed.

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2 hours ago, Davecv41 said:

I’ve got the same thing going on with my Belle and Khorns at the moment. The Belle is a center channel with a TV on top, and it sounds better, IMHO, with the ZXPC 18x10 and a D2200Ph driver. I’ve decided to build the horn into the Belle, but haven’t finalized a plan yet. Are you going to put the tweeter into the motorboard, or on top of the top hat? I’m still listening and evaluating the new sound of the Khorns. I pulled the old motorboard out, slid the D2200Ph and 18x10 in the hole, and put the tweeter temporarily on top. Please update us with some pictures of the new motorboard and side panels when you get them installed.

 

I'm making the Belle two-way like the Jubilee.  So, the 18x10 horn with the Axi2050 will be in the new motorboard. 

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