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Recently, I was a bit surprised to discover the AA Network in the Klipschorn sounds perceptibly better to my ear with a steel screw (not stainless or brass) securing the .245mh inductor.  It seems to give a little more energy to the lower treble  that to my ear is necessary to that “magic Khorn sound”; with the brass screw it sounds a just a tad “too polite” (again, to my ear).  My inductance meter shows .24mh (brass screw) versus .34mh (steel screw). 
 

I realize this post is going against the grain, so I was a little hesitant to post. If anyone is interested, the screw is a #8 1.5” steel Phillips pan-head. 

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11 minutes ago, Klipschguy said:

Recently, I was a bit surprised to discover the AA Network in the Klipschorn sounds perceptibly better to my ear with a steel screw (not stainless or brass) securing the .245mh inductor.  It seems to give a little more energy to the lower treble  that to my ear is necessary to that “magic Khorn sound”; with the brass screw it sounds a just a tad “too polite” (again, to my ear).  My inductance meter shows .24mh (brass screw) versus .34mh (steel screw). 
 

I realize this post is going against the grain, so I was a little hesitant to post. If anyone is interested, the screw is a #8 1.5” steel Phillips pan-head. 

 

Good choice on the wood screw. 

 

A stainless screw would sound too sterile, which a drywall screw is too brittle.  Galvanized in rough sounding too. 

 

Did you use a course thread softwood screw for a course sound or a fine thread screw for a more refined sound.  😆

 

 

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Who really knows if a steel screw is what the engineers wanted. If I were to guess I would say mistake in the assembly line and not what the engineers wanted. I can understand how a steel screw would change the inductance. Makes an iron core inductor with a steel screw. I have not taken the time to do the math but with such a small change in inductance I doubt seriously if it makes that much difference. Like islander said, whatever you like is the correct way. 

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I rebuilt a pair of crossovers for a pair of 1950s Khorns (not mine); they had brass machine screws in the 500-5000 from way back, so the engineers are/were aware. 1976 Khorns have steel from the factory (which is when I noticed the sound difference upon replacement with stainless).

 

 

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Employees took parts home and built networks for extra money. Someone eventually caught the steel screw because they stopped doing it.
 

The steel screw takes it 40% out of tolerance. Probably moves the corner frequency a little and messes with the EQ PK put in.  

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11 minutes ago, Crankysoldermeister said:

Employees took parts home and built networks for extra money. Someone eventually caught the steel screw because they stopped doing it.
 

The steel screw takes it 40% out of tolerance. Probably moves the corner frequency a little and messes with the EQ PK put in.  

It's hard to control quality that way, which they obviously found out very quick. Sounds like a great idea until the Turkey (101) starts flying around. 

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14 hours ago, Crankysoldermeister said:

Employees took parts home and built networks for extra money. Someone eventually caught the steel screw because they stopped doing it.
 

The steel screw takes it 40% out of tolerance. Probably moves the corner frequency a little and messes with the EQ PK put in.  


It sounds like the steel screw may have been a production oversight. I am generally a “tweak skeptic”, but a little more energy to the the lower range of the K77 is a good thing to my ear. With a cost of about 50 cents, it is certainly one of the cheaper tweaks in audio! Thank you all for taking time to reply. 

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Those that have listened with their speakers for years, decades,  that had the steel screw probably would not like it any other way. That is if they could distinguish the difference. I dare say most could not. As with many things either way is plenty good enough. In my old age I do not nitpick on these kind of things.

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I have seen the occasional steel screw through an inductor in what were, presumably, unmolested networks just as they were when they left the Klipsch factory.  I always replaced them with nonferrous screws, figuring it couldn’t hurt, but I can’t honestly say I noticed a difference.

 

i’m assuming that brass or stainless screws were the specification and that steel was a production error,  Does anyone, @HDBRbuilder or @JRH, know if Klipsch ever intentionally used steel screws to anchor inductors?   

 

FYI Speakerlab avoided the issue by gluing inductors to the network board; not an elegant looking solution, but it worked.

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DizRotus, same path, different result. Maybe a little test is in order?

 

Henry, like you, I have been around music/audio/electronics a long time and I often leave “well enough alone.” As a 21 year member of this forum, I rarely post anymore, but I felt this moment of serendipity was worth sharing. I may stand corrected.

 

Thank you again for your thoughtful replies. 

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13 hours ago, Klipschguy said:

I am too lazy to calculate the change in the crossover frequency with .24mh versus .34mh. Anyone have a calculator handy? 

 

Although this simulation shows the voltage across an 8 ohm resistor, it gives you an idea of the change.  Red is .245mh, blue .34mh.

 

Mike

 

Screenshot (150).png

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Most repair technicians when needing a part look at what they have in stock at the closest value to what is needed. At least those that know and understand what they are doing. Changing a few hz, V's, resistance or inductance is not going to be earthshaking in most electronic circuits unless we are talking lab test equipment. 

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14 hours ago, Klipschguy said:

I am too lazy to calculate the change in the crossover frequency with .24mh versus .34mh. Anyone have a calculator handy? 

 

Use This :   https://kimmosaunisto.net/Software/Software.html

 

you can thus simulate 2µF + 0.245mH + 2µF and compare with 2µF + 0.340mH + 2µF

 

😉

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