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Fuse recommendation


Klipschguy

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14 minutes ago, babadono said:

All righty then...you're good to go  or no?

If you still want to add a fuse it won't hurt...I did it on my LaScalas long ago. But as others have posted you may need a wee bit more than 1 amp fast blow.

Just a little levity rooted in the movie “Back to the Future.” -Thank you for your indulgence.

 

On a serious note, I am interested in tweeter protection, but not replacing the tweeter. Any advice is certainly appreciated and given respectful consideration.  

 

 

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14 minutes ago, Edgar said:

On a somewhat related topic, my house once took a 1.21 GW lightning strike. The only piece of stereo equipment that survived was the UPS / surge protector.

Edgar those are events we never want to see. I assume the equipment was plugged into the surviving surge protector, which sadly only protected itself. 

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Just now, Klipschguy said:

Edgar those are events we never want to see. I assume the equipment was plugged into the surviving surge protector, which sadly only protected itself. 

It happened over twenty years ago, and the story has probably been embellished in my mind since then, but the basic facts are that the UPS survived and at least some of the equipment that was plugged into it did not.

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I think if I were going to pursue this I would add the fuse between the output capacitor for the tweeter and the back to back zeners. That way it would only blow if enough high frequency energy was present to make the zeners conduct. You could probably start with a 0.5 amp fuse at that point. That would allow 2 watts to go to the tweeter.

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44 minutes ago, babadono said:

I think if I were going to pursue this I would add the fuse between the output capacitor for the tweeter and the back to back zeners. That way it would only blow if enough high frequency energy was present to make the zeners conduct. You could probably start with a 0.5 amp fuse at that point. That would allow 2 watts to go to the tweeter.

Thank you for taking time to respond, Babadono. That looks a good plan for additional tweeter protection. 
 

Andy

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1 hour ago, Curious_George said:

I know this thread is titled "Fuse Recommendations", but a light bulb would work much better. A 561 or 211-2 type automotive bulb. 

 

Do a search on the forum. 

I was thinking about this, but doesn't it add about 1/2 ohm of resistance to the tweeter?

 

My notes state put it either on the positive or negative leg. 

 

 

 

 

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14 hours ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

I was thinking about this, but doesn't it add about 1/2 ohm of resistance to the tweeter?

 

My notes state put it either on the positive or negative leg. 

 

 

 

 

About 0.6ohm in the tweeter circuit yes. I should have clarified that. You can still fuse the main input for overall speaker protection, but the light bulb would be used in place of the Zeners. Works very good for tweeter protection. 

 

The 0.6 ohm series resistance should not be audible. Key words there "should not be". 

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1 hour ago, Curious_George said:

About 0.6ohm in the tweeter circuit yes. I should have clarified that. You can still fuse the main input for overall speaker protection, but the light bulb would be used in place of the Zeners. Works very good for tweeter protection. 

 

The 0.6 ohm series resistance should not be audible. Key words there "should not be". 

So a belt and suspender solution would be maybe a 2 or 2.5 amp fuse overall and the bulb in the tweeters. 

 

Does it matter which leg the protection is on?  Electrons flow negative to positive but I always see fuses in the positive leg in auto circuits.

 

This is getting more important as replacement diaphragms are getting expensive. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

So a belt and suspender solution would be maybe a 2 or 2.5 amp fuse overall and the bulb in the tweeters. 

 

Does it matter which leg the protection is on?  Electrons flow negative to positive but I always see fuses in the positive leg in auto circuits.

 

This is getting more important as replacement diaphragms are getting expensive. 

 

 

Yes, the Larry King solution would be 2 ~ 2.5 amp fuse for overall listening protection. 3 amp if you really crank it up. 

 

Bulb can go in either wire; negative or positive. Since the audio signal is AC, the negative and positive are really only references for speaker polarity / phase.

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8 minutes ago, Curious_George said:

Yes, the Larry King solution would be 2 ~ 2.5 amp fuse for overall listening protection. 3 amp if you really crank it up. 

 

Bulb can go in either wire; negative or positive. Since the audio signal is AC, the negative and positive are really only references for speaker polarity / phase.

Fuse in pos or negative?

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