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henry4841

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I really like the idea of white. I bet it will look great. One problem for me though. I already have some attractive black wood screws to attach the plates to the wood. Anyone know where to get some attractive wood screws, at a decent price, for a white plate? I also like the look of aluminum but I do not want it to tarnish later on. Perhaps just spray some clear poly on the aluminum. Need to give some more thought before doing anything. 

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And more. I plan on documenting the build more with pictures. I hope I do not reach my limit of pictures before I get through. First I drilled some holes in the wood where the potentiometer, inputs, etc will go. Then square it some with the jig saw. Then took some files and cleaned up the edges of those aluminum pieces that are going to cover the holes and hold the parts. Then was it was time to sand the edges making them pretty. 

P1040046.JPG

P1040047.JPG

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Looking good!

 

For anyone interested in white colors many of the automotive whites are nice, especially the Pearl and metallic. I chose BMW because I liked them the best.

 

There are two main BMW whites, a pearl white with mica flakes in the top coat to reflect light. This does look nice but I prefer the metallic color best. It's just a preference. The BMW "Mineral White Metallic" instead of mica for reflective properties has metal flakes in it. It may have a small amount of mica also because it has some sparkle to it also but at some angles the metallic flakes give it not just a white look but also a slightly sparkly gray tint. The "Pearl White" is definitely more a white white.

 

I can give people the exact paint codes to order if they want. I have it special mixed into aerosol cans so I can spray it since I don't have a spray gun but for the cool guys out there into automotive that may have a pneumatic spray gun can just order the paint in non-aerosol cans.

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34 minutes ago, captainbeefheart said:

I can give people the exact paint codes to order if they want. I have it special mixed into aerosol cans so I can spray it since I don't have a spray gun but for the cool guys out there into automotive that may have a pneumatic spray gun can just order the paint in non-aerosol cans.

I do have paint guns I used in custom car restorations years ago but darn if I want to go to all that trouble. Just cleaning the gun afterwards is more work than I want to do. If I cannot get it in a can it will not be done. 🙂  That and automotive paint has skyrocketed in price since I last painted a car. 

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14 minutes ago, henry4841 said:

I do have paint guns I used in custom car restorations years ago but darn if I want to go to all that trouble. Just cleaning the gun afterwards is more work than I want to do. If I cannot get it in a can it will not be done. 🙂  That and automotive paint has skyrocketed in price since I last painted a car. 

 

I use the aerosol cans and get no orange peel or drips, it comes out nice and consistent and looks great. No cleanup is nice just flip the can upside down and clear the tip before storage.

 

Their white white is called "Alpine White" and is code "300"

 

The paint I use is called Mineral White Metallic and has metal flakes in it and probably some mica flake too. The paint code for that is "A96"

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1 minute ago, captainbeefheart said:

 

I use the aerosol cans and get no orange peel or drips, it comes out nice and consistent and looks great. No cleanup is nice just flip the can upside down and clear the tip before storage.

 

Their white white is called "Alpine White" and is code "300"

 

The paint I use is called Mineral White Metallic and has metal flakes in it and probably some mica flake too. The paint code for that is "A96"

Thanks, any suggestions on where to find reasonable priced wood screws that go with a white paint job? I already have some nice looking black screws for a clear coat or flat black finish.  

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https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-touch-up-paint-a96-mineral-white-metallic-genuine-bmw-51912148489?msclkid=50edab47391c1a01d4d5c85499899792&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BMW Shopping 0&utm_term=4580771607393493&utm_content=Ad group %231

 

I don't use this specifically, I have it locally mixed and put into aerosol cans. I actually pay $24 per can and since it has base and top coats it's more money than the one I linked but I don't know what shipping is from this company.

 

For clear I recommend using the Spray Max 2k high gloss. It's the best aerosol clear I have ever used.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Spray-Refinishing-Permanent-Surfaces-3680061/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=asc_df_B0043B7UQY?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79920869194981&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583520395839480&psc=1

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2 minutes ago, henry4841 said:

Thanks, any suggestions on where to find reasonable priced wood screws that go with a white paint job? I already have some nice looking black screws for a clear coat or flat black finish.  

 

Well I like contrast, the end bells of the transformers are black and the wood I use with white paint is often darker grain wood like Cocobolo, Wenge, Caribbean Rosewood, and Bocote. So I either use black hardware or even just stainless looks nice. I have never used white for hardware. I would think it would be easier to just get cheap zinc hardware and push into cardboard and paint the heads white yourself.

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25 minutes ago, captainbeefheart said:

 

push into cardboard and paint the heads white yourself.

Good idea, why did I not think of that. It is going to be a few days before I have to make a decision so I am going to give it some more thought. Right now my thinking is just a clear coat to prevent oxidation. I like the bare aluminum look. This depends on how many scratches appear before I am ready to install parts that is. Right now the aluminum sheets I am using look pristine. 

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2 hours ago, captainbeefheart said:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-touch-up-paint-a96-mineral-white-metallic-genuine-bmw-51912148489?msclkid=50edab47391c1a01d4d5c85499899792&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BMW Shopping 0&utm_term=4580771607393493&utm_content=Ad group %231

 

I don't use this specifically, I have it locally mixed and put into aerosol cans. I actually pay $24 per can and since it has base and top coats it's more money than the one I linked but I don't know what shipping is from this company.

 

For clear I recommend using the Spray Max 2k high gloss. It's the best aerosol clear I have ever used.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Spray-Refinishing-Permanent-Surfaces-3680061/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=asc_df_B0043B7UQY?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79920869194981&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583520395839480&psc=1


No need to use zinc chromate before painting?

 

Maynard

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1 hour ago, tube fanatic said:


No need to use zinc chromate before painting?

 

Maynard

 

Yes it's a good idea to use a metal primer with Aluminum.

 

I scuff the aluminum and then chemical clean it. A couple coats of metal primer and then you're ready to use the regular paints.

 

Thank for asking, I kinda expect that to be obvious part of the metal preparation process but many people that don't paint things might not know it.

 

Honestly for indoor usage like an amp as long as you scuff the Aluminum and clean it good enough I doubt there would be concerns, even in the long term because it's not a car or something marine outside and exposed to water and moisture regularly. Of course it's just worth the extra time to properly prep metal, which includes primer.

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CBH made some good points. When painting a car you want to be sure and get a good bond and you must adhere to sound technic's. After final sanding then cleaning with a degreaser you apply a primer. The primer insures a good bond for the hard paint. And it acts sorta like the the cushion under your carpet at home. But then a car is exposed to the elements with a lot of expansion and contraction of the metal possible every single day. A home environment amplifier, not so much of a problem. If I do not scratch the aluminum and it looks good I think a shot of clear over the aluminum will be just fine. I will clean it first with some lacquer thinner if I have any left or brake cleaner in a spray clean. Brake clean is what you want to use around your house if you want something really clean without leaving a residue. Should last longer than the clear coat of some of the older cars one sees in the parking lots.   

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Great find Seti. I am just a country boy and not familiar with design software and too old to want to learn. Good news though for you young'uns that like that sorta thing. Thanks for sharing. I am sure someone lurking on this thread will follow up one day and use their services.   

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2 hours ago, seti said:

 

I've become a fan of Front Panel Express. The software is great.

I found this seller on Ebay and it is very tempting for me to consider using one of these if I build another tube amplifier. In the description it says 'Services available chassis drilling, polishing and other wood types for additional charge.' Save a lot of work building an amplifier than the way I am doing it. But I kinda enjoy working with wood and making holes with my drill press. For the last few years my woodworking shop has not had seen much use. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/114550529401

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4 hours ago, henry4841 said:

I found this seller on Ebay and it is very tempting for me to consider using one of these if I build another tube amplifier. In the description it says 'Services available chassis drilling, polishing and other wood types for additional charge.' Save a lot of work building an amplifier than the way I am doing it. But I kinda enjoy working with wood and making holes with my drill press. For the last few years my woodworking shop has not had seen much use. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/114550529401

 

I hear ya.. My wife threatened me with my life if she got one more piece of metal in her foot 8-)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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