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Klipsch La Scala woofer stopped working


bsacco1

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Hello,

 

I have a pair of 1980 vintage BR LaScala's that were working just fine until yesterday. One of the woofers stopped working.

 

Does anyone have an idea how to troubleshoot where the problem might be? Removing the woofer on these speakers is a chore and I want to make sure i take all the correct steps in troubleshooting before I do anything.

 

THanks in advance.

 

Best, b

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32 minutes ago, bsacco1 said:

Hello,

 

I have a pair of 1980 vintage BR LaScala's that were working just fine until yesterday. One of the woofers stopped working.

 

Does anyone have an idea how to troubleshoot where the problem might be? Removing the woofer on these speakers is a chore and I want to make sure i take all the correct steps in troubleshooting before I do anything.

 

THanks in advance.

 

Best, b

 

why do you think it is the speakers?  it could be your source, your interconnect to your amp, the amp, the speaker cables to the amp, or the speakers.

 

if you have a multi-meter, then the first step would be to disconnect the woofer from the crossover and check the resistance.  if you get an open circuit, then it's the woofer.  then check the input connections at the crossover -- loosen, then retighten the screws.  then switch your speaker cables from one speaker to the other.  then try some other speaker cables.  then do the same two steps with your interconnects.  you should be able to figure out the issue by process of elimination.

 

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1 hour ago, bsacco1 said:

I put a multi-meter on the woofer leads (exclusively) and got a .47 reading.

 

I tried a different speaker wire but got the same (no woofer) result.

 

 

 

 

.47 ohms is low.  as mentioned, look at the scale -- could it be 4.7 ohms?

 

also, do switch the speaker cables from one speaker to the other and see what happens.  if that woofer still doesn't work, it's definitely the woofer.  if you switch the cables and the other speaker stops working, it's something up stream.

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First thing you do is switch speaker leads and see if the problem follows the speaker or not. I have seen connections to the woofer fall off. Checking resistance with the woofer wires loose from the barrier strip will tell you that. Those old K-33's are quite durable and my first suspicions would be it is something else. Also loosen and tighten all the connections at the barrier strip.

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If the voicecoil shorted, wouldn't the amp output blow, unless it's fused?

 

I'd also verify that amp channel still has output. Put a voltmeter set to AC volts across the speaker leads for that channel (disconnect from the speaker first).

You should see the voltage bounce around in response to the music, and as you raise the volume the reading should rise as well.

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The speaker is dead. It's actually a K33B speaker. See attached pic.

 

I tried calling Klipsch this morning but the guy (David) could not answer my question which was what is the advantage or disadvantage to re-coning a speaker vs. buying a brand new one from Klipsch ($129).

 

Can anyone on the forum please explain this to me?

 

I mean, beyond the fact if you buy new from Klipsch they may have a warranty period vs. if you re-cone you may or may not have a warranty? 

 

I was just wondering if these older (original) K33B speakers sound any different/better than the new ones?

 

Best, b

IMG_2830.JPG

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If Klipch will really sell you a K-33 for $129.00 I would not look into reconing. You would probably spend close to that on a recone and then how do you KNOW the recone dude has real correctly made recone stuff to duplicate the OEM K-33?  I have 7 K-45's and 48's in the scrap bin right now because reconing in Nashville is a big PITA and I have no assurance these woofers would be restored to OEM specs other then an empty promise. 

 

  I have one of these old woofers on the shelf. Have to see if it is working and if it is you can have it for the price of shipping. I will get back to you tonight.

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6 hours ago, Peter P. said:

If the voicecoil shorted, wouldn't the amp output blow, unless it's fused?

 

I'd also verify that amp channel still has output. Put a voltmeter set to AC volts across the speaker leads for that channel (disconnect from the speaker first).

You should see the voltage bounce around in response to the music, and as you raise the volume the reading should rise as well.

 

Not necessarily. The woofer voice coil has nearly 150 feet of wire wrapped up into a coil, 1 foot of wire probably makes a few turns on so we are looking at around 500 turns. The closer the short is to the ends of the magnet wire the more of a dead short it will be. If the short is say bypassing half the winding, making the total length of the wire 75 feet then you wold still have around 3 ohms of resistance and it wouldn't blow the amplifier or cause it to go into protection. The short can be anywhere along the coil.

 

 

1 hour ago, bsacco1 said:

tried calling Klipsch this morning but the guy (David) could not answer my question which was what is the advantage or disadvantage to re-coning a speaker vs. buying a brand new one from Klipsch ($129).

 

If you have a shorted voice coil re-coning the speaker is not going to help you at all. You need the voice coil replaced.

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