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La Scala Type AA crossover kit


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Hello, 

 

I am looking to do a DYI project by replacing my old (original caps) on my 1980 Type AA Crossover LaScala Speakers.

 

I was wondering if anyone has the list of what caps to buy. I realize there are only 3 caps per speaker to replace.

 

I was curious if anyone had listed the correct caps (values) to buy and recommended Manufacturer i.e. Solen, etc....) 

 

Thanks, bob

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I don't think I really need to add to the cost of having someone solder 6 capacitors for me...;)

 

I'd like to save $'s and just do it myself. Besides, I mean someone has to put their college degree to use, right?

 

 

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The 13uF is a tricky value to find so it may just be easier to parallel two values together. I use 4.7uF and 8.2uF.

 

Contact @deang as he can send you the exact values from the Tecate brand Klipsch uses. They are metallized polyester which the original caps were also polyester for a dielectric. If you want to keep the original voicing of the networks as close as possible then I suggest getting a polyester cap and not polypropylene.

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You can buy the original ones from JEM. I bought some for DIY for my AAs very reasonable, if you want the original sound. I just thought I would put this out there Randy must have the day off.

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I have parts, but use them in builds and any PCB work people might want done. If one just wants the capacitors, give Jim at JEM a call and he’ll set you up. 
 

It doesn’t matter who you contact. I send people to Jim and he sends people to me. 
 

I do wish new folks would at least scan the pinned posts. 

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On 10/25/2022 at 1:24 PM, bsacco1 said:

Hello, 

 

I am looking to do a DYI project by replacing my old (original caps) on my 1980 Type AA Crossover LaScala Speakers.

 

I was wondering if anyone has the list of what caps to buy. I realize there are only 3 caps per speaker to replace.

 

I was curious if anyone had listed the correct caps (values) to buy and recommended Manufacturer i.e. Solen, etc....) 

 

Thanks, bob

Jem Performance is definitely your best option. Jim's cap kit was definitely on spot; it made my AAs sound very much the same as my original oil caps. https://jemperformanceaudio.com/speaker-modifications

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On 10/26/2022 at 12:25 PM, Dave MacKay said:

The schematic diagram says "used till 2/83".

 

Were there changes to the AA network after that date, or was that when Klipsch introduced the AL?


The latter. 

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@bsacco, the JEM option would likely hold your resale value and keep the sound where you are used to as well.

 

Your tweeters will come alive with just about any cap you use, but the squawkers may or may not be to your liking. I like the "brighter" caps at the levels I listen at, rarely touching 90db from the listening position.

 

Just a caveat when soldering, leave the capacitor leads as long as possible so you don't fry them. Touch and go, I use alligator clips as a heatsink as well.

 

...ask me how I know, lol

 

Saw your other post about the blown K-33.

 

The suggestion to order two new ones from Klipsch is solid advice. Matching the one you have to a used one would be tricky. Also, you would only do marginally better on eBay pricing and if what Randy said about shipping and tax is true that's a no-brainer.

 

 

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On 10/26/2022 at 8:52 PM, pcbiz said:

Jem Performance is definitely your best option. Jim's cap kit was definitely on spot; it made my AAs sound very much the same as my original oil caps. https://jemperformanceaudio.com/speaker-modifications



 

@pcbiz

 

I just checked for pricing on their site and could not find a pricelist.

 

May I ask you what the AA kit cost?

 

...much obliged 

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1 hour ago, geoff. said:

It was under $100 at the time, so a little over $100 now sounds right.

 

@pcbiz

 

I just checked for pricing on their site and could not find a pricelist.

 

May I ask you what the AA kit cost?

 

...much obliged 

 

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[mention=7518]bsacco[/mention], the JEM option would likely hold your resale value and keep the sound where you are used to as well.
 
Your tweeters will come alive with just about any cap you use, but the squawkers may or may not be to your liking. I like the "brighter" caps at the levels I listen at, rarely touching 90db from the listening position.
 
Just a caveat when soldering, leave the capacitor leads as long as possible so you don't fry them. Touch and go, I use alligator clips as a heatsink as well.
 
...ask me how I know, lol
 
Saw your other post about the blown K-33.
 
The suggestion to order two new ones from Klipsch is solid advice. Matching the one you have to a used one would be tricky. Also, you would only do marginally better on eBay pricing and if what Randy said about shipping and tax is true that's a no-brainer.
 
 

9f37888b5592c30ded5af6f263de54f7.jpg
I was considering the ALK Engineering AA rebuild option from r about $160. You send your x-overs in and he rebuilds a set for you that includes the following… (see photo) it seems to include more than just caps. Plus I don’t have to figure anything out or solder. What do you think?


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Also, regarding the woofer I’m getting recommendations to go with the Eminence Kappa 15c speaker which is a little bit more expensive but appears can deliver a bit more bass and robust performance. Thoughts vs. the K-33? Klipsch has been a colossal hassle with trying to order a K-33 speaker from them.


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@bsacco1,

 

ALK has retired, so you are out of luck with him. It was a hell of a deal while it lasted.

 

As for the Kappa 15C suggestion, I have done it and it is all that and a bag of chips.

 

I didn't want to pile too much on your plate, or lead you astray from keeping things all original.

 

There is one caveat about the Kappa 15Cs, last two pairs I received anyway. They come with a squishy foam gasket, like pool noodle foam, not sure why they do that. Most other woofers have hard paper gaskets.

 

In order for the woofer to transfer all of its energy to the doghouse you either have to torque the screws down to fully compress the foam, or replace the foam gasket with paper.

 

Oh, and I found there IS a break in period on these woofers. 
 

...there are (subjectively) better tweeter options too, who said that?

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DO NOT over torque the screws securing the woofer!!!!

 

You can bend/distort the basket which throws the voice coil out of alignment. People ask all the time why their voice coil rubs and if it's not debris that got in there then it's most likely from a bent/distorted basket, and typically from people not torquing the screws down evenly and too much.

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