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Advice on adding a 510 horn to my La scala


Heritage_Head
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Pls advise what amp you are using. Know you do NOT want to go active, but it seems the easiest solution ... and it might even be cheaper buying a pre-amp and a DSP vs buying many different passive crossovers (and maybe different drivers) and never getting it "right." :) 

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To keep the same crossover frequency with the same tap you'll need to increase the 13uF capacitor, on simulation 22uF looks like a good value to start with.

 

My guess is the 510 will be louder so you may want to balance it out by swapping the transformer tap down a step to -6db. In this case you will want to swap the 13uF cap to 8uF with the new 8 ohm load.

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3 hours ago, Schu said:

you can get close, but that timing coherence remains a 'slight' issue.

you're opposed to active?

I’m not opposed to active. Its just the cost, and the extra modifications that I would have to do. It would require pre outs (that I don’t have currently)……external extra amplification. I have an offer to buy 510s with DE 75s drivers for $400..if I could get something that would make this work all spent 1k ish I will do it (so about $600 extra after I buy the horns and drivers for everything else). 

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16 hours ago, geoff. said:


 

Noooooo!


For the love of all that is sacred, please don't do this.

 

I think that would be a recipe for a "cascading series of failures".

 

I have wondered about putting an 8 ohm resistor in place of the tweeter, but   even that would create issues.

 

In this particular, and pretty much all other, un-EQ'd crossovers the midrange would overpower the treble.

 

If you go to the websites of any driver manufacturers you can find their FR charts. It is easily 7db difference in the mids and highs.

 

 

Is there any chance that when running Dirac live (or other room correction programs).. some of these issues may be fixed? Or is that just wishful thinking? 

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1 hour ago, Emile said:

Pls advise what amp you are using. Know you do NOT want to go active, but it seems the easiest solution ... and it might even be cheaper buying a pre-amp and a DSP vs buying many different passive crossovers (and maybe different drivers) and never getting it "right." :) 

Totally agree sir…. I recently purchased a pioneer elite VSX-LX305 receiver… pretty spendy and I’m still not sure if I’m going to keep it. Its awesome, and really wanted to try out the new Dirac live. It has no pre-outs,  and for $1400 you would  think it would but it doesn’t. I may still return it, and buy something else with pre outs.. I run almost a full heritage system so needing extra amplifiers isn’t really required. 

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54 minutes ago, Emile said:

Yes; if the crossover "was" at say 500Hz, it will be at 250Hz with an 8 ohm driver :( (Not 100% sure ... just from memory.)

I am unfortunately not advanced enough to understand the complexity of all of that if I’m being honest. I understand Ohm and xo pretty good. Does it mean basically that if you don’t have the right driver it will absorb too much power and be too loud if it’s not the right resistance? (Is that what you mean) 

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11 minutes ago, Heritage_Head said:

pioneer elite VSX-LX305 receiver

Pretty sure you can use the zone-2 preouts as an input to a DSP. Then feed the "processed signal" into another amp. Even a cheap Chinese class D amp will do :)  

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1 minute ago, Emile said:

Pretty sure you can use the zone-2 preouts as an input to a DSP. Then feed the "processed signal" into another amp. Even a cheap Chinese class D amp will do :)  

You are correct that zone two is technically a pre-out (for like a tape out), but wouldn’t that be a full signal and not just left and right front in a 5.1 (for example)?

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26 minutes ago, Heritage_Head said:

wouldn’t that be a full signal and not just left and right front in a 5.1

Yes, you are correct. But not sure if that makes a "big" difference.

 

Or, maybe you have another component, like a Blu-Ray player that has L/R pre-outs and you could try that.

 

If you need it (and if I can find it), I do have a miniDSP 2x4 you can try. Note; NOT the HD version, so NOT recommended - it is too noisy.

 

Cheers, Emile

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 Seems a little high on the price considering you can buy generic brand for $180 new:
 
https://www.amazon.com/LASE-BM-D750-2-Throat-Titanium-Compression/dp/B08BPFMBX2
 
Or the newer version of the Paudio for $340:
 
https://usspeaker.com/paudio bmd750-1.htm
 
 I've purchased a couple pairs of the k-69-a don't think I've paid more than $300 shipped. I apologize if the seller is a forum member but they are not posted for sale here as far as I know.
Ebay, $50.00 each

https://www.ebay.com/itm/255796213565?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=XDL5oeuaSy-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=IrwQw47zRQO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

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No problem ... $200 for a good used preamp, $200 for a miniDSP HD and $100-200 for another amp [emoji4] 
Depending if the goal is 2 channel or not, DAC directly to the MINIDSP should work without the need of a PRE.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

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15 hours ago, The Dude said:

Seems a little high on the price considering you can buy generic brand for $180 new - etc, plus links

Probably "no longer allowed" on the "new" forum as these are NOT Klipsch approved products :( 

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2 hours ago, Emile said:

Probably "no longer allowed" on the "new" forum as these are NOT Klipsch approved products :( 

 

That was the original driver for the Underground Jubilee, and there were passives designed for that driver using both horns.

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6 minutes ago, deang said:

 

That was the original driver for the Underground Jubilee, and there were passives designed for that driver using both horns.

Have you built or heard any of the passive/driver combos?  Wouldn't mind seeing some for the different drivers Klipsch used.

 

 

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